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Posted on May 02, 2009

Windage and elevation adjustment all over the place

The rifle has been dropped. now the windage and elevation adjustment is all over the place, however when it is finally zero, it holds its setting well, how can i fix this myself

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lsugoat

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  • Contributor 3 Answers
  • Posted on May 04, 2009
lsugoat
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Joined: May 04, 2009
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Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

  • lsugoat May 04, 2009

    Sorry, its been awhile and its past midnight: After you shoot the first mark, hold rifle steady on original bullseye, and you or buddy move scope toward the shot mark. Once aligned, re fire at bullseye and you should be very close.

  • Anonymous Feb 13, 2013

    Alway shoot rifle same way, as vibrations need to be same. So no matter the rest always put your hand under forearm and/between what it is resting on, unless your always shooting off a bench-rest, then use same bench-rest always.

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1. Insert the Bore Stud into the Stanchion while aligning the arrows as shows. Insert the assembled scope guide into the muzzle of your rifle with the grid pattern upright.

2. Select the Aperture Cap that fits your objective rim. Place it over the objective end of your rifle scope and press until it fits flatly against the rim.

3. Using the Adjustable Scale measure the top of your rifle scope tube to the center of the rifle bore as follows: Open the rifle breach. Rest the upper arm of the scale on the scope tube before or behind the windage and elevation turrets. The scale markings should be facing towards you reading vertically and ascending from bottom to top. Slide the lower end of the scale up or down until it is touching the center point of the bore. On center fire rifles the center point will be the firing pin. On rimfire models the center will be the shell extractor. Read the number that corresponds to the indicator marked "CF". Make a note of the reading.

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5. While keeping the riflescope at the right distance to see the full field of view, sight through it on the grid pattern. Move the stanchion right or left until the bold centerline is parallel to the vertical reticule wire. Turn the windage dial right or left until the vertical reticule is aligned with the grid centerline.

6. Use the reading from the scale to align the horizontal reticule wire. Find the numbered horizontal grid line that corresponds to the number on the scale. Turn the elevation dial right or left until the horizontal reticule wire aligns with this corresponding grid line.

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There is no manual for elevation and windage adjustments. (at least not one that comes with your scope; all your scopes manual will say is whether its FFP or SFP (First Focal Plane or Second Focal Plane, the scale used on your scope for mil dots)(you can get this info by finding a store that sells this scope and asking a sales rep)

To adjust for elevation and windage you have to take into account the daily factors (unless your shooting in the same indoor environmental controlled shooting range each day you SNOB! jk

The formula takes alot of variables into account and is known as Exterior Ballistics

!) Environmental Factors - First thing you account for.

A) Elevation from sea level plays a large part into your environmental adjustments. Your elevation from sea level determines largely the Barometirc Pressure but it also varies slightly with Temp and Humidity (Major Factor)

B) Temperature - The temperature can affect the density of the air. The hotter it is the thinner it is and therefore less resistance and a higher bullet trajectory (Minor Factor)

C) Humidity - This again will affect the densify of the air infront of your bullet (Minor Factor)

D) Barometric Pressure - The other large factor in air density this is the base stat that the others modify

These all combined create a ratio that you apply to standard MOA (windage and elevation adjustments) to obtain the shooting information for that particular environment)



2) Bullet Factors (Listed on the Box you buy) - There are a few bullet factors to take into account.

A) Speed - the bullets feet per second can vary as much or more than 500 feet per second with the
same caliber ammunition.
B) Grain - The Grain of an ammunition is a measure fo its "Sectional Density" or weight to volume
ratio
C) Ballistic Co Efficient - This number is the measure of the bullets ability to maintain its speed
during flight. This also varies from Grain to Grain


These factors are complex and a pain for the best of shooters to determine. adding to that confusion. there are many ways to determine a bullets ballistics coefficient and each one gets a different number. In this case bullet data is best retieved from the manufactuerers box and take their word for it.

3) Lastly you account for shot factors.

A) Range - by referencing your standard elevation MOA adjustments and mutliplying by the ratio for environment the Elevation MOA is achieved.


B) Windage - Windage is done in inches per mile per hour then is multiplied by the Mph of the wind.
In order to be precise the windage is done in inches instead of MOA. it needs to be converted heres and example.

You Ballistics Cheat Sheet for the day says the windage at 900 yards is 5.2 Inches per mph of wind.
you apply the ratio for your environment .90 (all example numbers. this number would represent a shooting environment with an air density lower than standard/ the cheat sheet's known MOA adjustments). the 5.2 inches is multiplied by .9to acheive 4.68?? idk the point is you mulitply that by the wind of 10 mph to achieve a total of 46.8" of wind drift to the target.

now for the conversion to MOA. 1 MOA is eqaul to 1.047" per 100 yards. meaning for every 1 moa you adjust the bullet will move 1.047" per 100 yards (our target is 900 yards; meaning that each MOA for this target is 9*1.047" = 9.423" per MOA adjustment. so take that number and divide our total wind drift by it. ie 46.8 / 9.423 = MOA Windage Change of 4.9665... now you need to know whethere your scope is 1/4 minute clicks or 1/8 minutes (how many spaces between large numbers?) you would adjust to 5 MOA for a 1/4 minutes scope equaling 20 clicks on an 1/8th minute scope it would be 40 clicks.

This is the math of shooting. to learn how go to
WWW.shooterready.com they are an excellent sight to get the math down WITHOUT wasting ammo. Once you have the math you an transfer it to your gun. waste a few rounds checking it out and youll be hitting targets @ 1800 yards in no time

I like to take the simple way after i learned how to do the hard way

There is software tha will do the exterior calcualtions for you.

if your interested i use Sierra Infinity V6 Ballistics Software

GL


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