The Main Relay can be a fuel problem since it feeds power to the fuel pump.
Check Main relay and it's fuse.
Hope this helps.
Here's a quote from amy Chilton's manual for 1980-1987.
"Several types of fuel filters are used. One is located in the fuel tank of all the vehicles and is part of the fuel guage assembly. Second is a sealed paper element, in-line unit; mechanical system- located on the engine (above the fuel pump) or electrical system- located in front of the fuel tank. Third is a paper element, in-line fuel filter/vapor separator, housed in a fuel resevoir. Normally, the in-tank filter does not require changing. If it does, the fuel tank must be removed. "
This thing you describe sounds like the typical Chrysler in-line filter of its day. It is nothing more than the same generic in-line plastic see-thru filter you buy for your lawn mower except in the 70's and 80's it was covered in metal and had a Chrysler part number. A lot of guys added an extra filter in those days, it wasn't the best system. I would remove the outlet line and turn the fuel pump on, see if you get fuel. Replace if needed.
Well, you don't need two filters, if that is what it is. Hard to say without seeing it. Possibly someone at some time put in a second filter.
Pull the line off just before this device, use a can or jar to catch the fuel and crank the engine over. If pump is working, gas will come out in spurts or pulses. If no gas, the pump is not working, or the filter before the pump is clogged, or somehow gas is not getting from the tank to the pump.
If gas comes out, put the device back on and see if gas comes out of it when the engine is cranking. If none, throw whatever the thing is away, and run line as you said from pump to carburetor. If gas still comes out of the device, then the little needle valve and seat just inside the carb that lets gas in might be plugged or not opening to let gas in. When the gas in the carb bowl gets low, the float in the bowl lowers, and this should open the needle valve. Try dribbling a little gas down the carb throat and see if engine fires, tries to start. Then you know the carb is the problem.
If nothing happens, then you had better check the ignition system: check for spark on a spark plug wire while the engine is cranking. Need to see a blue snapping spark to know ignition is good. No spark? Check if spark is coming out of the coil on the high tension cable from coil to distributor. If spark there, problem may be the dist. cap or rotor or the spark plug wires or the spark plugs. If no spark out of the coil, check if the small wire to the coil, the + wire on one side of the coil has voltage on it when the key is on. Voltage there and no spark: possibly the ignition control module is bad, or whatever Chrysler called it back then: the device that cuts voltage to coil primary windings (what the small + wire to coil connects to-the primary winding) so high voltage is generated in the coil for spark to occur.
Let me know what you find. Good luck.
SOURCE: 1991 Chrysler new yorker not
Sounds like you were throwing parts at it to solve the problem. I would be looking for vacuum leaks.
There is a part called a MAP (Manifold Pressure) sensor located about 4 inches behind the alternator, but higher than the alternator. It has a vacuum hose going to it. The hose may have a crack in it. There may be a problem with the throttle position sensor, although I would be less suspicious of it.An actual leak between the intake manifold and the cylinder head is a source of a vacuum leak. Check the ground at the back of the cylinder head for a clean and solid connection.
(on the front cylinder head, driver's side. Black wire.) There is a temperature sensor located on the intake manifold, but you need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) and the specifications to check it. Ambient temperature vs ohms. Check the simple things and leave the rest ro a pro, it'll be cheaper in the long run.
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