I cannot move the adjustment knobs on the windage and elevation of the scope

No, it means the retical (cross hairs) will move 1/4 in. at 100yds.for every click of the windage or elevation knob.

Check you mounts. If mounted properly you should have enough. if they are not moving at all you have prob broken the fine wires that form the crosshairs.

To raise the point of impact, turn the elevation screw counterclockwise. To shift left, turn windage screw clockwise. If you raise the horizontal cross hair you will lower the point of impact of the bullet. If you move the vertical cross hair to the right the shot placement will go to the left. Make small adjustments tap the scope with a screwdriver handle to give it a shock, not to hard to help move the cross hairs and try to bore sight first. Hope this helps Fix ya up.

If your point of impact needs to move up, turn the knob the direction that says up. If it needs to move left, turn the windage knob the direction that says left.

The adj knobs on there are for windage on the right and elevation on the top, if they are not covered, they are turret knobs for target shooting, not for hunting. The focus knob is the rear lens, it spins in and out to fit your eyesight. It usually focus on the crosshairs and the distance for most shooters, some will not be able to get it right because of their eyes. 98% will. Hope this helps.

This can only be due to a "broken" scope. To be sure, you can put your gun in a vice (cushion it) and put the crosshairs on a fixed point. Without moving the gun, crank the adjustment knobs a good 10-15 clicks in one direction each, and see if the crosshairs move from where you had them pointed.
If they do not, the scope must be replaced. If they do move, perhaps you should try adjusting the scope quite a bit more between shots.
The best way to sight it in requires a helper. Fire one shot with the crosshairs on the bullseye. Then, without reloading, put the crosshairs back on the bullseye, and have a friend adjust the knobs until the crosshairs move to the ACTUAL point of impact of that shot. It is essential NOT to move the gun while doing this.
This method allows me to sight any gun in with only 2 shots (and a few for confirmation, of course). Best of luck!

If you have Leupold/redfield style windage adjustable baes you just need to move the windage adjustments. If you don't have these, I would recommend you take your rifle to a qualified gunsmith and have him remount and boresight your scope with this style scope base(s) which should run you about $80.00
hope this helps, Mark the Gunsmith

Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

I doubt if there is anything wrong with your scope.
The Baraska model A10810 Reticle adjustments are 1/8 ( 1/8 inch) MOA (minute of angle).
For instance, Look at the top turret (The ELEVATION Adjustment Knob). You will see that there are little vertical 'hashmarks' all the way around the knob starting with a '0' then a series of the verticle hashmarks, then a '1' and another series of the marks, then a '2' and so on. YOUR scope will have 8 of those vertical 'hashmarks' between each 'number'. These little 'hashmarks are referred to as 'Clicks' or 'Minute of Angle' adjustments.
Now imagine that you are set up on the 100 yard line and you have fired a round at your target, say a one inch diameter dot or any size for that matter, and the bullet strike was one (1) inch LOW and two (2) inches to the RIGHT and of course you now want your next round to impact in the target dot.
To bring your bullets point of impact UP to coincide with your point of aim (you have your 'crosshairs or RETICLES centered on the dot), you will be turning the TOP adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, ONE 'click' at a time. EACH one of those 'Clicks' will actually move the horizontal Reticle UP (Elevation) or DOWN 1/8 of an inch at a time. If the bullets point of impact was 1 inch LOW, you would need to turn the adjustment knob clockwise Eight (8) clicks which will equal ONE (1) inch.
Now you must adjust the knob on the RIGHT side of the scope. This one is the WINDAGE Adjustment knob which controls the VERTICAL Reticle and moves the point of impact Right or Left. This knob will also have the 'hashmark' increments around its perimeter and like the Elevation knob each 'Click' will move the Reticle 1/8 of an inch but in this case the Reticle and point of impact moves Right or Left.
Remember the bullets point of impact was 2 inches to the RIGHT. This means you must adjust the Reticle or point of impact to the LEFT so that your point of impact will coincide with your point of aim and will be in the target dot. Turn the adjustment knob COUNTER CLOCKWISE Sixteen (16) Clicks. Keeping your POINT of AIM (crosshairs centered on the dot), your next round should be inside the dot and you can then fine tune it from there.
As you can see from this example, the Reticle (crosshairs)and point of impact does not travel very far at all inside your scope at the 100 yard distance so it is not hard to imagine that you thought they were not adjusting to get you on target, when in fact they WERE adjusting, but in tiny increments.
Now, as you create more distance between you and your target, these 'tiny' increments and point of impact will be larger as your distance increases. For example, at 200 YARDS each 'click' will move your Point Of Impact 1/4 of an inch right,left,up, or down. So if your bullet point of impact was one (1) inch low from the 200 yd line you would adjust your Elevation Reticle 4 Clicks to raise your point of impact in order to be on target. At the 300 yd line each Click will adjust the point of impact up,down,right or left, ONE (1) inch.
If you wish, I would be happy to walk you through the 'ZEROing In' of your scope and rifle even if you do not have a Zero Bore Scope. With-in about 9 rounds you can be hitting where you are aiming instead of 'chasing' bullet holes all over the paper.
If you are interested, respond back and I will be glad to assist you. Enjoy. :)

I'm not sure how this got posted in the car audio section...

 

If the scope was manufactured by a well established company, you should be able to get a new cap from them.

 

If you cannot locate the manufacturer, you can move the other cap to the windage adjustment to set the windage. Then when you're finished, move the cap back to the elevation adjustment.

 

Even if you use it for a shooting discipline that requires constant adjustment, it's unlikely that you'll need to use the windage adjustment for anything other than setting the zero.