Probably heating element in freezer is broken.
Remove power and defrost. Remove wall panels in back of freezer to Check heater element behind panels With ohm meter should read 20 ohms or less. You could remove it and bring it to a local repair shop and have them test it and if required order you a new one. If this does not work it may be the control board
I though LG would back this product but they aren't. My wife agrees with your wife. And that's an understatement. We should have bought from a established home electronics company that builds reliable products and has the bank roll to back their product. NO MORE LG ANYTHING for us.
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SOURCE: LG refrigerator lrsc26944tt error code ER FF
I'm no major appliance repairman. However, after reading several posts, I investigated the issue further since I received an ER FF on the front panel. I have a LFX25960SW refrigerator. I pulled the top and bottom baskets out, and was able to take the back panel out from inside. There was a solid block of ice built up around both fans and wires. I took a blow dryer and gradually melted the ice around the fans and wires. Then, as I was able, I pulled the remaining ice chunks off of the wires. I put the thing back together and it cleared the message. My wife says no more LG appliances for us. :)
DAS
SOURCE: error code IF or 1F not making ice model #795,77562... Sears/LG
You posted under an incorrect model number, so can only give general info. IF is a code for ice room fan. It is a fan located in a plastic box in the upper left hand corner of the freezer. The IF code shows up if the control board does not get a feedback signal from the fan telling the control board that the fan is running. I'd check to see if there is some ice blocking the fan blade. If that is not the case, you will need a meter to do further diagnostics to find out if your problem is with the fan motor or the control board. (note: when you turn the icemaker off, the fan will no longer blow cold air into the ice room, and all the ice will melt. Also, when the icemaker bin is full, the same basic thing can happen. Steady use of ice or dumping the bin will prevent ice from melting in bin.) The fan runs on 12 to 16 volts DC (variable speed), and the feed back signal is about 4.5 volts DC.
SOURCE: My freezer keeps building up w/ice.
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DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires
plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater
comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced.
The defrost heater is
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If
you have a defrost
timer you
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running. If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your
model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and
search for defrost components to find your parts.
Testimonial: "Thanks, I'll check it out when I get home from work. It's nice that someone gets right back to you, especially on a weekend when no one's around"
SOURCE: LG LFX23961ST with error code ER IF
could be bad fan. sometimes the sensors on the them go bad
SOURCE: not making ice error code 1f
Hi,
Pull the line off at the icemaker and check for a filter at the inlet...often **** builds up there and stops off the water...
Here are some basic tips for ice maker troubleshooting
...
Ice Maker Problems and Ice Maker Troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3876071-ice_maker_problems_ice_maker
heatman101
Hi
Error Code "Er FF" indicates a problem with the unit's freezer fan.
The freezer fan controls the temperature in the freezer. The source of this error is most likely ice buildup. As with the Er IF error, allowing the unit to thaw should resolve the issue. This can be caused by frost accumulation on or around the freezer fan. Unplug the unit for 3-4 hours to allow this to melt off. If error code persists, call Customer Service.
Please get back to us if you have further query or else please accept the solution.
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