Thermistor fridge I have a 2075dwrr Uline two drawer model. Looks very easy to replace the controller, I understand the hermistor has to replaced as well. Where is it located in the model and how hard to access for replacement?

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The Thermistor has failed or is failing. It is the temperature sensor that is basically your electronic thermostat.
Troubleshooting Guide: U-Line Refrigerator Error Codes U-Line refrigerator troubleshooting begins with cracking the codes. Let's take a look at U-Line brand error codes.

Error Code ER

Diagnosis: Thermistor 1 is open

Explanation: The U-Line refrigerator error code ER is alerting you to a failed thermistor. Thermistors are used for various temperature readings. These provide reliable temperature readings using a resistance which varies based on surrounding temperatures. If you have a U-Line wine cooler, for example, it will include ambient temperature surrounding the refrigerator unit.
If the thermistor 1 fails, the refrigerator will continue to operate on a preset 10 minutes on and 30 minutes off time interval.

Solution: Use an accurate ohm meter to test the thermistor. If the thermistor is defective, have it replaced.

https://www.google.com/search?q=uline+u-2115wcs+thermistor

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try running with thermistor unplugged

yes you will have to look at your schematic, you may have a bad fridge thermistor? or bad cold control thermostatt

check the info button in service mode. it will tell you all the possibilities for all ecode occurences.

Most likely a problem with your fixing drawer connector
It might reset and go away, or you may have to change connector
E004 0205 05 Title Thermistor temperature difference error Description of detection Difference of detected temperature between thermistors is bigger than the specified value. Measures 1. The connectors of the fixing main/sub thermistor (THM1-1 to 3) are physically removed (the cable is caught, or disconnected) -> replace the fixing belt unit 2. Check the rotation of the fixing motor (the connector is physically removed or disconnected) -> replace the fixing motor or the harness3. The connectors of the pressure sub thermistor (THM2, 3, 4) are physically removed (the cable is caught, or disconnected) -> replace the thermistor or the presure stay 4. Disconnection, soiled, improper location of, or faulty pressure sub thermistor -> clean the thermistor or replace it5. Faulty drawer connector -> clean the drawer connector or replace the fixing drawer cable6. Replace the DC controller PCB

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Make sure that the climate controls on the fridge side are set towards "coldest". If they already are, you might have a bad thermistor, which should be located behind the temp controls at the top of the fridge side.Fairly easy to replace.

Hi
Er means that somthing is wrong. It could be a temperature problem that caused it. Does it beep at all. That is a alarm for the door being open. You may need to check the magnet on the door and the reed switch on the wall. Upper left for the top drawer. and on the bottom is on the grill and door. Normally this is something I would ask for a tech to look at. But if you feel confident to try this I can get you into the program to see what its telling us. Now hold the up arrow and at the same time press and release the light bulb 3 times. Then release the up arrow last. If you did this right then you will have a 0 on the display. Yes, Then up arrow until you get to 3. Then press and release, It should give you a number. E# ? Let me know what this is. You may have a couple so write down all of them.

Now after you got the number then just push up arrow until you get to 99 then press and release the light bulb to go back to the refrigeration cycle.
E3= bottom drawer open to long
E10= Top drawer open
E1 = Thermistor #1 open
E5 = 10 degrees to warm E6 = 10 degrees too cold E7= Thermistor 2 E8=Thermistor 3 E9 =Thermistor 4 open thermistor 1 located top drawer Thermistor#2 I/M or evap if no icemaker
Thermistor3 is located in freezer or base if no freezer thermistor 4 is drain pan
Hope this helps

Hi
You are right. The only way to repair this is by replacing the complete door assembly. If under a year it should be covered.

I had a similar problem where my evaporator coil was freezing into a block of ice, which caused my fridge to warm up due to a lack of air flow. I fixed this by doing a few things. I replaced the circuit board ($100) which was easy to do. Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem so I took the inner fridge cover off to view the evaporator/heater coil assembly. I checked my thermo fuse and found it to be open (failed). I ordered the thermo fuse and the thermistor and replaced them both. I then plugged the fridge back up and put a regular thermometer inside the fridge to get an accurate reading of inside temp. A few days now and everything looks good. The board, fuse, and thermistor were all pretty easy to replace.

I would call Uline directly and allow them to recommend someone in your area that does warranty work for Uline. In this fashion, you are assured professional results and OEM parts....

Good Luck, Eric Campion