Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer Logo
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
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Maytag Neptune MAH6500AWW LR Code

I have a problem with my Neptune. After reading all the info regarding the motor control board, etc., we are still trying to determine what we need. It looks like the boot tore and water got down in the bottom. Could this cause the problems - LR code and failed attempts to spin. It can spin freely if we move it and nothing looks burned or amiss on the motor board itself. We don't see anything that looks like a fuse down in this area (bottom right) of the washer. Once it all dries out is it possible that the machine will work again as normal? What should we do?

  • drodriguez9 Apr 20, 2009

    What a coincidence, my washer displayed the same code this weekend. If you are not familar with what LR Code means Locked Monitor Rotor.Trigger. Based in signal information from motor control board, the machine control board senses the motor is not turning when requested to run. Action to be taken. 1.Run motor control board diagnostic test. 2.Check motor control board for damaged components. 3.Check wire connections in harness leading from machine control board to motor control board. 4.Replace responsible component. I plan on testing all components with a multitester and taking all necessary components to a local Technician. I will keep you informed of my findings

  • Anonymous Jun 17, 2015

    yes if the boot is torn replace the boot what happens is water will get down in there and cause the motor to short circuit sorry for late response but maybe someone else might need the help

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  • Master 15,935 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





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