The Mantis has a speed controlled automatic clutch.
Lower the idle speed by turning the idle screw counter clockwise. The idle screw is attached where the throttle cable meet the carb. The screw has a pointed end that resembles a pencil point.
The engine speed should be adjusted just above stalling.
If the tines turn even when the engine pull rope is pulled, the the clutch is defective and needs repairing.
j
SOURCE: My Mantis Tiller 4cycle engine
I had same issue with my 2 year old 4cycle. Check if the carb is moving full stroke with throttle movement. I had almost no movement at carb at full throttle, found the trigger in throttle handle was cracked and bent rather than pull cable. I called mantis and they promptly sent a new handle bar ***'y with new cable, throttle ***'y Etc and that solved my problem.
BTW: If you cannot wait, I did figure out that if I pushed the carb to open with the throttle trigger fully pulled it would run at high, but when you let go.....LOL
Rich in Wethersfield, Ct
SOURCE: Engine runs fine on 2-cycle Mantis tiller, but
Your problem is a common one on Mantis tillers. The engine sounds like it is not breathing properly. I have fixed dozens of these problems and it is almost always the spark arrestor clogged up. The spark arrestor is found inside a small housing on the muffler (easy to fix). There are 3 screws that need to be removed to get the muffler cover off, then you will see a small housing a little over an inch long with another 3 screws...remove them and you will see a small screen that is probably clogged. Clean it and the housing with a solvent (I usually use carb cleaner) then re-install the arrestor and reassemble the muffler cover. This will fix your problem about 80% of the time.
If that is not the problem you may need to fix the carburetor (take my advice and just buy a new one...not much more expensive than the repair kit and a lot simpler.
SOURCE: Mantis 2 cycle - tines lose power.
I had this problem today. Loosen the flange bolt. Pull the engine off and check that the hex end of the shaft is lining up with the clutch pad in the engine-that it seats properly. Then make sure the shaft is seated all the way into the worm gear and put the engine back on. You will probably have to wiggle the shaft until it seats into the clutch. Tighten the flange bolt when the engine is seated flush with the worm housing (with no gap). That's all I did and the power is back up. Hopefully you still have your manual with the parts blow-up. (page 29?) BTW, have you checked that the wormgear is greased?
SOURCE: i have a mantis tiller, the tines won't turn, the
If the motor rpms up without drag it might be a bad gear in the transfer case or a broken cable if it's a cable drive, could also be a bad or stuck clutch. Hope this helps
SOURCE: Tine shaft removal for mantis 2 cycle tiller
Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!
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