The fan will be blowing steadily for some time then a solenoid clicks and the compressor (?) starts for 1 second then immediately turns off. The fan remains on. No apparent dehumidification occurring.
Additional details: I have a hose for drainage so it is not a ''bucket Full'' problem. In fact, no external errors or conditions are indicated.
It seems to me that the unit is not economically repairable, so is ther a way to cheat the unit to turn on its dehumidifer whenever it has power applied (bypassing internal humidity settings)? That way I can at least use it when needed in my basement.It seems to me that the unit is not economically repairable, so is ther a way to cheat the unit to turn on its dehumidifer whenever it has power applied (bypassing internal humidity settings)? That way I can at least use it when needed in my basement.
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Capacitor
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air. There is a capacitor in the compressor circuit to help the compressor motor to start and if the capacitor has failed then the compressor won't run. If the compressor doesn't run or if the overload device continues to trip, then you may have a defective capacitor. An accurate diagnosis can be determined by a qualified person using special test equipment.
Overload
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air. There is a device in the compressor circuit called an overload and it is used to protect the compressor motor from damage. If the overload has failed then the compressor won't start. If you have verified that the compressor doesn't run, then you can test the overload for continuity with a multi-meter. A common cause for the overload to fail is from operating the dehumidifier on long or undersized extension cords.
Fan Motor
If your dehumidifier is not making water and you have verified that the ambient temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then you may have a faulty fan motor. For proper operation, a dehumidifier needs to have an adequate amount of air blowing across the evaporator coils to prevent frost or ice buildup. If you feel little or no air coming through the grille area and the filter is clean, then remove the cover and check the fan area. Inspect the coils to make sure that they are not restricted with lint or dirt and clean them if necessary. Make sure that the fan motor rotates freely and that the fan blade or blower wheel is firmly attached to the motor shaft. Using caution, operate the unit in a fan only mode and observe the fan motor. If it hums but does not rotate or only rotates slowly then it is defective and will need to be replaced. If the motor does not rotate and does not appear to make any sound, it may still be defective, but will require further testing by someone who is comfortable with using a multi-meter and working with live electrical circuits.
Electronic Control Board or PCB Assembly
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor or fan motor may not be operating. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator, and the fan motor blows air across the evaporator coils to extract the moisture. On some modern dehumidifiers an electronic control board, often called the PCB, is used to control the compressor and fan motor. The control board has sensors connected to it that monitor the relative humidity and when the level is higher than the control setting, the control board will activate relays to turn on the compressor and fan motor. If you have an electronic control model and the compressor or the fan is not operating, then the electronic control may be at fault. A voltage test, using a multi-meter at the output relays, would be required to help in the diagnosis as well as confirmation that the sensors are operating normally.
if by turn off do you mean make the fan stop running ? if so sometime in the past few years someone decided to make machines like this run the fan all the time , but they do cycle the compressor motor to regulate the rooms humidity level
yes if its less than two years old the new ones run the fan all the time and cycle the compressor off humidity of room , the fans even have speeds on some models so you can turn em down
One of the major faults with dehumidifiers is damage and electrical ''tracking'' caused by the dampness they are constantly exposed to. Isolate the supply completely ! from the unit then carefully inspect all electrical parts for corrosion and ''blow'' marks.
Check motor for shorts to earth as this occurs on old elec motor windings.
Also inspect carefully the control contactor / relays that switch motor and fans.
A dehumidifier is basically an air conditioner, so some coils should feel hot, the others should feel cold.
If no water is collecting, then the unit's compressor is not starting. Typically you have four possible failures causing this: the switch/wiring for the compressor has an open circuit, the motor-start capacitor for the compressor has failed, the compressor itself has failed, or all the refrigerant has leaked out.
If there is evidence that it is 'trying to start', but then clicking repeatedly, this can be a symptom that the refrigerant has leaked out, as some devices have a pressure switch to prevent compressor damage.
Also, a failed start-capacitor can also cause the click-click noise if the device has a current limiter switch on the compressor.
the purpose of the valve is to de-ice the evaporator and the valve is turned on by a timer usually. in normal operation, the evaporator builds up with ice (that is how water is extracted). when the valve operates, to put it simply, the hot gas is routed to the evaporator and hence melts the ice off
If the compressor is running but no air is blowing out, then your fan motor is shot. If the fan is blowing air but you don't hear the click and vibration when you turn it on, then your compressor needs replacing. Those are the most likely culprits.
It seems to me that the unit is not economically repairable, so is ther a way to cheat the unit to turn on its dehumidifer whenever it has power applied (bypassing internal humidity settings)? That way I can at least use it when needed in my basement.
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