Dometic RM 2301 refrigerator only works when plugged into an exterior source. How do I get it to run off the battery?
SOURCE: Dometic refrigerator inconsistent temperature
Yes the clearances on gas absorption frig is critical. Not to say there is not another problem. Is the thermister attached to the frig fins?
I'm assuming you are saying there is no ice and water being dispensed, but that the ice maker is producing ice.
Actual ice maker operation is independent of the fountain which is for dispensing only.
The power is checked at the fountain board on wires Red/Black and White. The door must be closed when doing this check as power goes through the door switch. If no power is present, check the same wires at the connector under the upper door hinge cover.
The next check would be Red/Black to Blue while depressing the actuator pad button.
Outputs off the board are Pink to auger motor, Black to fountain water valve, other Black to fountain light, Violet to cube solenoid, the two brown wires go to the ice chute door solenoid.
The ice maker can be checked by removing the plastic cover up front. Check test points L to N for 120VAC. Short test points T and H to cycle the ice maker. Make sure it does not have ice or water in the mold already, or it will run over.
Of course last but not least, check water to the refrigerator. It is a dual valve and unlikely both solenoids could fail at the same time.
SOURCE: I have a Dometic RM 2652, the freezer works fine.
Here is the trouble shooting manual for your Dometic.
http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/dom_techdata/26121_2852SM.PDF
It will tell you what the possible problem is.
SOURCE: 3 way dometic RV fridge RM2612 won't work on propane or 12 V
Check any fuses/circuit breakers in harness from battery. That battery should supply 12 volts dc to fridge lugs/terminals at bottom of fridge on outside behind vent.
If battery is good and hooked up properly but no 12 volts to fridge, then you will have to trace back to battery for broken /bad wire. If you want to test quickly, just run 2 jumper wires from battery to those 2 lugs marked + and - Battery + to + (pos)at fridge, and - battery to -Neg at fridge. That should allow you to run it on propane or 12 volt. Remember, running it on 12 volts will kill that battery pretty quick, unless it's being charged. When you are plugged in, the converter supplies the 12 volts to your fridge, as well as should be charging your battery.
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