Freezer compressor turns on for a minute and then shuts off

it could be that your fridge,freezer setting is not turned up high enough to keep the freezer cold enough.turn it up to setting number 5 at least and if that dont do it u could have a faulty thermostat.have it checked by a engineer.

When you thawed it, did you remove ice from it using a metal object. That may have damaged the coils when would allow freon to leak out. This is too coincidental to be a problem itself with the compressor. The t'stat might be the problem. Try turning it off at the t'stat for a few minutes, then turn back on to the normal setting. Keep door closed for 30 minutes and check the inside and see if the walls are freezing. If not, you may have a compressor problem, or t'stat, or relay switch problem.

Check condensor not clogged up, fan working etc. If all ok, try new capacitor and relay. If all else fails, replace freezer (compressor replacement is costly)

Coil must be cold enough for the fan delay to turn fans on. If it is and no fans replace delay

Check the freezer for ice build-up. You will need to remove the rear and bottom covers for this. Frequently, ice will build up in the passageway between the refrigerator and freezer and/or in the defrost drain. If you remove this ice, your refrigerator will resume normal operation.

Good day,
Not really. Domestic refrigerators are designed to operate in an environment where people live.
Most all manufacturers recommend that they not be placed in an area that goes below 55 degrees.
At any temperature below that it starts to degrade.
Cold enough and it will not work at all.
The reason is once the fresh food compartment reaches it's normal temperature of 33-37 degrees, it shuts the whole machine off.
That is by design, on any refrigerator like yours that has only one compressor and cooling fan motor.

As well, there are other issues. In that situation, the machine could well stay off 12 to even 24 hours.
The compressor has an oil sump in it, and the oil becomes very thick. When it finally tries to start, it creates a very stressful situation for the compressor, and could substantialy reduce it's life.

http://www.truemfg.com/pdf/InstallManuals/T-SERIES/t_series_english.pdf
Go to this web site and look in the manual on page 15. Check "Compressor runs but will not refrigerate". Gives some suggestions.
Now, inside the evap, usually strapped or clipped to the coil "U" turn on the end of the coil, is a Klixon device. This device comes in many different configurations. There may be 1 or 2 of these. One is a defrost termination switch. When evap gets hot enough so no frost is present, it terminates the defrost cycle. The other is a fan delay. It comes on when the coil temp gets to about 20 degrees. This prevents circulating warm air from defrost cycle. Now if there is only one device, it can be 2 in 1. That is, a defrost terminator/ fan delay. Will most likely have 3 wires going to it where as the 2 separate ones will only have 2 wires to each one. Now, either this fan delay is not working correctly or the coil is not getting cold enough. When it gets cold enough, it turns on the evap fans. This is most likely where your problem lays. Check it out.

IS THE FREEZER AN AUTO DEFROST FREEZER? IF SO, IS THERE FROST BUILT UP ON THE BACK WALL? IF FROST APPEARS ON THE BACK WALL, THERE IS A DEFROST FAILURE. THERE ARE THREE ITEMS IN THE DEFROST CIRCUIT. THE TIMER, HEATER, AND BI-METAL.
THE TIMER IS USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BACK OF THE FREEZER DOWN NEAR THE COMPRESSOR IN THE CORNER. IT HAS FOUR WIRES ATTACHED TO IT. YOU CAN ADVANCE THE TIMER BY TURNING THE KNOB ON THE FACE OF THE TIMER. WHEN IT CLICKS LOUD AND STOPS THE COMPRESSOR RUNNING, IT IS IN THE DEFROST CYCLE. WAIT 5 MNUTES AND CHECK INSIDE THE FREEZER
TO SEE IF THE HEATER COMES ON. YOU MAY BE ABLE TO HEAR THE FROST MELTING AND DROPPING ON THE HEATER. IT WILL SIZZLE AND POP. ALSO, LOOK FOR A GLOWING DOWN AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BACK PANEL.
IF THE HEATER IS ON, THE TIMER IS BAD. IF NOT, CHECK THE HEATER AND BI-METAL.
IF THE COMPRESSOR IS NOT RUNNING, CHECK THE COLD CONTROL TO SEE IF IT IS GOOD. IF THE COLD CONTROL IS O.K., THE START DEVICE ON THE COMPRESSOR MAY BE BAD. DOES THE COMPRESSOR HUM FOR A MINUTE AND THEN CLICK AND SHUT OFF. IT CAN BE EITHER THE START DEVICE (RELAY) OR THE COMPRESSOR IS BAD.

Make sure everything is working, I.E. compressor, fans. Now I need to know if the freezer shuts off at 14 degrees, or does it continue to run without making temp. If it shuts off, then the first place to look is the thermostat. It may be out of calibration. If it continues to run, then the solution may be as simple as cleaning the condenser coil. or the defrost has malfunctioned somehow. Defrost probleams will cause excess ice on the inside coil. You may need to remove the panels to see how much ice is on it. It sounds like the compressor is good, as it is pretty cold. Just not cold enough. A deep freeze should be at least 0.

This is a little hard for me to understand being a yank and all. 0C is 32 Fahrenheit, right so 4/5 is about 40? make sure everything is working, compressor , evaporator fan motor (the one inside) condenser fan motor (the one outside) if you have one. You should have an adjustment for freezer and one for the fridge sections, right. The fridge section controls what amount of cold air comes from the freezer compartment. Check the vents inside, make sure they are not blocked and they open and close when you adjust the control. If this all checks good then check the thermostat. If the compressor shuts off prematurely, then a new thermostat may be in order. If you think you can do this, find the thermostat, by-pass the wires. this will make the compressor run continuously. After 20 minutes or so it should make the desired temperature or close to it. None of the fans or compressor should turn off while this is by-passed.