Samsung SRS615DP - set to -18 and 3 degrees after several hours ice freezes and frdige cools very well. Then a few hours later the freezer goods start to thaw and fridge has condensation. Turn fridge off and back on and display shows eg -5 and 12 degrees. Compressor comes back on and a few hours later all well but then cycle starts again.
Have replaced main pcb, fridge thermo, fridge fuse, freezer fuse, defrost fridge thermo and problem still exists.
Thanks
Greg
OK now I'm wondering are theses numbers your getting 4 -9 the actual temps of the refrigerator and the freezer? and do they feel this cold and correct to you? I know the refrigerator side shouldn't be below 34 or so and definitely not below 32. If this is correct and the numbers are not settings but temps. (Now if you have a touch pad its electronic. If it has knobs it has a separate defrost and thermostat and are electro-mechanical)
If electronic Your control board and possibly defrost control are out.
It would more likely be the sensors going to the board(s) It will both sensors have the possibility of causing your problem. 1 will control the run of the compressor (and this one could and probably is connected to the inside coil) and 1 will control the air damper tween the refdg and freezer compartments, and may turn on the inside fan operation too.
(this would be my first suspect if these are degrees numbers). Look at the thermostat control see if it is attached to the indoor coil (usually the tube leavign the indoor section. If its not attached its not sensing the coil temp and when goes into defrost wala its not senmsing temps like its designed to do. Look for a broken clip or possible a plastic wire tie that holds this sensor in place.
Please get back to me with what you see - find on this look up.
Greg Look where these sensors are and look for where they may attach and have come loose. Usually the sensors are as in my previous post attached to some part on the indoor coil or in a holder close to it. See if these sensors are stuck in place securely. And there isn't another place for them to mount . Now if this is all okay look for an air damper or air damper motor connecting the 2 compartments and see if its stuck closed or open is more likely. I suspect the air damper is at fault.
OK I'm now seeing I need to ask some more questions.
You will have to remove the side or back cover to discover how this thing ticks.
See if these explanations amke sence:
I need to know
About the air damper from the fridge section to the freezer section. You have the idea correct but backwards. The freezer is usually the only place in a domestic refrigerator where the refrigeration takes place by direct contact. (at least it is all I know of). And there is a fan that forces air from one side to the other. Now there is an exception I ahve seen a refridg with 2 evaporator fan motors. Now as far as defrost... the fridge should always be above freezing so it wont have what we call a defrost actually. Because there is no frost in the refrig side? Correct? If it does then it would be a freezer too.
So what I believe is happening is the damper (and - or possibly a second fan motor) is staying in the refrigerate mode causing your low temp on both sides.
Now 1 more question I have to eliminate is this:
1 is there an actual cooling coil evaporator in the refrigerator section?
2 If so does this unit have 2 compressors?
2 If not 2 compressors it has to have some way for the coil in the refrigerator compartment to stay above freezing, is this correct? If it has to stay above freezing the way it works this could be (have to find it or eliminate what it is and is not) strictly mechanical or could be mechanical/electrical.
If its mechanical only it will be just a valve. and you will note it by a raised place at the entrance of tubing on th refrig coil in refg section. Usually these are only in 2 temp refrigerators in the commercial side. It may have 3 pipes on it.
Now to the sticky. 1 way to stop the cycle of refrigerant is with a shut off valve, Ive not seen a domestic refrigerator with one but it will have 2 wires going to it to power it and it will be sitting on the coil or lines going to the coil and refrigerant will be passing through it. It will have to close when the fridge is at temperature. ANd the last item is this refridg have electric defrost (most do) but it could be hot gas defrost (not commonly used any more because of the wide temp swings and the energy it uses). But again it would require a valve on the evaporator and 3 lines to it.
SO you have 2 evaporator coils??? Interesting. I suspect the control that cuts off the fan on the refrigerator side(assuming that it just cuts off the fan, it may also have a valve that cuts on and off or instead of the fan. Can you take a pic of the coils in the refrigerator? I don't see where you could post them in here. but maybe on you tube? and post the link here. Im going to have to see if there are any valves on the coil. anything that has the alum tubes running through it with 2 wires?
Any frost on the refrig coil after it runs fr 30 min with the door closed?
These pics did help me understand what your looking at. I have not seen one like this with 2 coils.
Answer these
1 does the refrigerator fan (Inside) run all the time?
2 Do you know how the fan motor shuts off (with door open, closed, or doesn't matter about door IE runs all time?)
3 And do you know where this fan motor gets its power from (a board I'm thinking)
4 and is the sensor you you replaced go in the refrigerator section? 5 and is it mounted on the coil in there?
6 Does the sensor you replaced have a pair of wires (2 only)?
7 these pair of wires on sensor did you remove them all the way or splice together?
8 were they long enough to pull into the place of the existing wires?
9 did you cut them?
10 DO you see where they attach on the other end to a board?
11 Does the light go out when you close the door?
×
Hello Danie;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
The normal setting for a freezer is -2 to +2 degrees F., and the normal setting for the fresh food section is +35 to +40 degrees F.
You only have one source of cooling and that is your freezer. With the settings that you have, you are asking your unit to do what it is not designed to do.
The ice maker is struggling because if it is a cast steel ice cube mold, the heater beneath it is not designed for the current to break the ice cubes free @ -18 degrees F., or if you have a plastic flex ice cube mold it is too ridged to flex enough to break the ice cubes free. Normally your ice maker should dump 8-10 times in a 24 hour period.
A note on food storage. Make sure you do not overload your freezer of fresh food section to the point where food product extends beyond the edge of the shelves.
Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101
1,445 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Hi Fairfield, sorry just got your message.
age - 4 years old.
fan - Will have to check and get back to you
Coils - very clean
inside coil - only checked when fridge had been turned off for a day but could not see any signs of water marks left over from defrosting ice. Coils are very well covered, so will have to run fridge down to temp turn off, remove covers and get back to you.
Under fridge - Will have to check and get back to you
Thanks fairfield - may take a day to get back to you as fridge is off at the moment. Greg
Fairfield, have had fridge on for 2 hours and fridge at 3 and freezer stuck at -9 - has not changed in last 30 mins.
Have felt entire fridge inside and out
Inside - very cold no warm spots
Outside - warm from lower rear cover especially near compressor. Doors very cool. Sides cool except for half way up from front to back on either side where it is warm to touch - not hot, not cool.
Under frdige is warm at back and normal room temp otherwise.
Will leave fridge running and let you know progress.
Thanks
Greg
PS holding doors open but switch in (lights go out) and a few seconds later the fan starts ok and blows cold air for both fridge and freezer.
Fairfield - it's off as we have borrowed another fridge whilst testing various parts on this one. I can test the voltage and will do so shortly.
4 hours after turning on and i noticed that compressor is off - temp shows 3 and -11.
open doors, hold door switch and fans do not run in both fridge and freezer...
turn off and back on - temp now 4 and -9 and compressor starts.
door switches / fans now work again. temp starts to come down
Hi Fairfiled - thanks for your persistence.
The temps of 4 for fridge and -9 for freezer I believe are correct. The temp of -18 and 3 is the default when fridge turned on. As it progressively gets cooler the temp is reflected on the front panel display. As far as I can determine (from google and my own experiences with this frdige) the fridge is cooled first then the freezer, the fridge has its own fuse and temp sensor (both replaced) that are connected properly, the freezer has its own fuse (replaced) and temp sensor (not replaced), the fridge and freezer also have their own defrost sensor (fridge one replaced). The fridge air dampener is behind the inside full lenght cover. I would need to take this off (which also covers the fridge evap) to check for motor is work. Although the air always comes through the frdige and freezer when the compressor is running.
Thanks Fairfield I will get to you as soon as possible with the results Greg
1. yes looks the same as freezers
2. no one compressor
3. Yes. it has a separate fuse for the fridges evap in fridge (I have replaced)
The rest I will have to take the covers off to have a look and get back asap.
This fridge has an electic defrost heater.
Thanks.
Greg
Fairfield, I will take the fridge covers off and post results as suggested. It may take a day or two.
Thanks. Greg
http://www.homeatyellow.com.au/yph/produ...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/615dp
Fairfield have taken some photos as per above.
Temp history:
Ambient 28
30 mins - freezer 18 - fridge 18
60 - 10 - 12
90 - 4 - 7
120 - 0 - 3
Then photos taken of evaps.
Greg
1. yes when door is closed both the fan runs - after a delay of about 5 seconds
2. shuts off instant door is opened
3. from the main board
4. replaced fridge thermo fuse, fridge temp sensor, fridge defrost sensor, freezer thermo fuse, freezer temp sensor
5. the fridge and freezer thermo fuses attached directly against their respective coil.
6. two wires for each of the sensors replaced
7. they come pre terminated - see
http://spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/produc...
8. yes but due to them being so tightly fuitted from factory we left the origianl in fridge disconnected. So they are in a slightly different location but on same surface and mounted same way as originals.
9. no
10. they attach inside the fridge which then runs to the board
11. yes
Thanks
Greg
Ok Greg Let me know how it does. Im wonderign why its off? Do you have a volt meter and can you check voltage at the compressor?
Just feel if you have freezing temp after 2 hours running and the coil temp underneath at same time. You don't have to remove the panels inside. Just see if it is getting down. I have a suspicion already. But I dont want to say before I hear back from you.
How long have you had this refrigerator?
What does the fan on the evaporator and condenser look like ? do they run all this time?
What do the coils look like are they dirty on the outside?
Is the inside coil blocked with frost, Ice, plastic bag?
Do the coils under the fridge feel hot, warm, or cool?
After power failure of a few hours display shows a single segment at the bottom of the Fridge display.
How can I clear this and what does it mean ?
Daewoo. Fridge-freezer is faulty, power keep cutting. I turn the main switch off then on again then its back on again.
×