Maytag Washer Legacy series When cycle starts the cold water just trickles in and takes a long, long time to fill. The faucet valve is fully open. When I unscrew the hose from the machine and turn the water on, it gushes out strong, so the problem is in the machine. Any suggestins?

check water coming out of hoses. check on hot and cold fill. could be fill valve

It can't get enough water so it flashers these lights
to tell you to turn your water on,
Your water valves are not fully opening to let enough water in.
You will need new water valves.

screen in valve need to be clean

Hi

Error code E70 means Cold water hose is connected to wrong faucet or Cold water faucet is not turned on. If this is not the case then check the cold water hose, whether it is kinked or plugged. If the hose is fine then the fill valve assembly has turned bad and you would need to replace the valve. Connect hose to cold water faucet and cold water inlet on washer. Be sure cold water faucet is fully opened. Hope this helps...

Daniel

If you pull the power to the machine and water continues to flow then the water inlet valve is stuck open. You will need to replace the water inlet valve. The Service manual will step you thru the process.


FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.


The water inlet valve is p/n 25001046 Substitution: 12002242 Water valve shop around for best price.


Is this Cold water inlet valve issue? If so and you only do Cold water wash/rinse like me you could switch the fill hose connections from hot to cold to hot at the faucet. Turn the hot water faucet valve off and select Warm/Warm temp selection and you will be filling with cold water wash/rinse. Maybe that would hold you over until you replace the Water Inlet Valve assembly.


You can check out your pressure switch transitions as I had this poster do for his issue at this link http://www.fixya.com/support/t5471295-washer_fills_water_begins_agitate_but


His issue seems to be a definite stuck pressure switch not water inlet valve such as yours. Check to make sure your pressure switch is OK by watching the fill point transitions as I mention in the post.


If you machine is a series 12 or above the Low and Mid fill pressure switch transitions will toggle at the same time. Series 12 and above us a 2 level pressure switch. Series 10 and 1 use a 3 level pressure switch.


Good Luck………….. D*ick

two problems here,
your shaft seal is running on its last leg
the sound is unmistakeable and always described the same...
the water issue, you probably have a trickle leak through the cold water valve
the mixing valve is quite an easy repair, but I would have to say with all honesty, it probably time for a new machine
the hub seal is a tub replacment call
2 hrs of labor if hes good
and the tub runs around 500.00 dollars
sory for the bad news

The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.

From what you have said, you may have a bad solenoid in your water fill valve. it's the rubber piece under the debris screen. if you can get that out and replace it, you'll be golden.

There are 2 hoses. Hot and cold and if the nobs are not turned wide open then it will not give you the water like you want. Check to make sure that the hot water nob is turned to were the water should come out like the cold. If not that then check the water heater and see if it is set up the way it needs to be.
Nikki2913

Adrea, sounds like you need a new valve. When it's doing this leaking, unplug the washer. If it's still leaking you know for sure it's the valve. Part number for the model posted is 22002360. Catriver..post back.