Question about Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer
I have to unplug it between washes or it continually beeps. The cycle signal seems to be messed up. when it resets after being plugged back in it always reverts to the Heavy Duty cycle. Of course this issue started a couple of days after my warranty ran out, and it has been a hassle for 2 years!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow
meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has
not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off
and the error code will flash.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.
1. Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
2. Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves
3. Verify inlet valve operation
1. Verify Drain pump operation
2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch
Posted on Jul 31, 2008
Uh oh! It did it again! This time I had to unplug 6 times for one cycle. Seems to be on the last 2 minutes most of the time. Today my husband is taking the control unit and looking for soldering problems. On Askmehelpdesk.com this man told of taking the bottom panel off and there is a little black latch thingy you pull to open the door lock manually. Also he said that the K2 and K4 relays are usually the problem if it isn't a soldering issue on the connectors. ( On the CCU);. He said one of them is usually burned and to clean it off and then switch it with the other one which carries less voltage, therefore doesn't burn. You can use a pencil eraser to do this. My husband told me they did this in the Army for MOose code contacts. He just told lme the soldeirng looks good on the connectors and is now working on the K2 and K4 relays. If you go to Askmehelpdesk.com/appliances you will see these tips are for the Whirlpool Duet whic is apparently the same machine as our Sears Kenmore H4's. Gosh, I hope this helps someone as it sure is not fun trying to track this problem down. I am glad you got Sears to come out. I will NEVER and I repeat NEVER buy from Sears again! Did I mention I wrote a letter months ago when I was having a hard time getting warranty work done.( Which I never did) that I had written to the pPesident, CFO and the Texas Attorney General for Consulmer Protection Division and never got a response from anyone?
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
You may have a broken inner tub spider. Check for play between the inner drum and the outer tub by moving the inner drum up and down.
If there is excessive play, the spider is broken causing an unbalanced load and therefore no high speed spin can be achieved.
In this case the inner drum would need to be replaced, which means taking the machine almost completely apart. A good tech can do it in about 1.5 hours.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
The back panel does not come off. You need to remove the outer casing in order to access the internal components. The following steps explain how:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
With the case removed, you should now have full access to all the internal components and be able to complete a thorough inspection. If the leak is coming from the rear of the washer, check your water inlet valve and associated hoses. Inspect the tub ring where the water dispenses into the wash basket and make sure it is not cracked, or has any loose hoses. If you need assistance in determining where the leak may be coming from, please let me know.
To reassemble the washer, perform the following steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If you have any questions along the way, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on May 15, 2009
Something is in your pump trap, easy fix. pop open the bottom panel by removing the three screws under it. requires a torx bit or a nut driver. if you can tilt the washer back so the front legs are a foot or 2 off the ground, it will make this a lot easier. once open you will see a twist off cap. before you remove this be prepared for the residual water to eject out when you open it. these can not get all the water out so there is always some, tilting it back will minimise this or putting hose clamps on the pump to tub hose can help but not nesesarry. twist it out and clean it out, also stick your fing into the two holes where the trap is located to see if any coins have gotten stuck. once clean, make sure you line up the trap arrow with the base. then button it back up, good luck
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
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