KitchenAid K5SS Heavy Duty Commercial Stand Mixer Logo
Stuart Humphreys Posted on Feb 21, 2013
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Kitchenaid mixer makes a clattering sound at low speeds - seems to be coming from the governor or the control plate - any ideas, is this a common problem and how should I approach it?

My old mixer - actually from Hobart days - seems quite noisy compared to new ones that I've listened to in a local store. The noise seems to be a clattering (or chattering) noise and seems to be coming from around the governor or the control plate. I've had the mixer apart and have checked the gears which seem to e fine - it has been re-greased too. The mixer is more noisy at low speed than when it runs at higher speeds. I've tried a spare control plate from a quite mixer and that didn't improve things. Could this be something to do with the governor bouncing the control plate around too much - the spring that joins to the control plate seems a little loose. Any ideas oh wise kitchenaid mixer fixers???

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Slo Mover

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  • KitchenAid Expert 185 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 04, 2013
Slo Mover
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Joined: May 09, 2008
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Did it start clattering before or after it was re-greased? The K5ss by Hobart is an excellent mixer and there is no reason why it can't go on for a bunch more years. First you can get clattering if the brushes are less than 5/16th inch long, But that is not usual.

I would think that the rear bearing which is in the center at the rear may be more your problem, That bearing is behind the speed control switch and behind the governor (don't discount the governor being the problem) and is attached by two 3/8th nuts and slides onto the two guide slides that hold the motor parts in place. What i have found over the years is that 1.) the studs can bend (happens but not often) 2.) the bearing which is in the center of the big aluminum housing, (Called rear bearing assembly) moves over the years and causes humming and clattering.
So what to do about it? Loosen the two nuts a turn or two (do not remove) look at the top of the the bearing assembly and you will see a metal tab (used to attach the rear cover) (make sure the bowl and beaters are not attached to the machine) now plug it in and turn it to stir speed or number 2 position, put your finger on top of the tab and press down while the mixer is running, you should hear a change in pitch, and it should effect the clattering noise, (It will go up or down, or you may hear a new noise a light humming) (The humming is caused by the armature no longer in the center of the motor field and getting to close to the stator of the motor while it is operating, when it is out of center the developed magnetic field that causes the armature to turn gives off the humming noise because it is out of center or balance) if you notice that the clattering gets louder or softer by pushing down or pulling up you have to play with it to find the sweet spot, when you find it tighten the two nuts down just enough to hold it in place and no more. It takes a while and you wont hurt the machine but never go above speed two while doing this. If that fixes the problem you may have to do it more than once as the machine continues to age or if you move the machine around a lot. the real problem is the armature needs replacing (if this is the problem). Next you may have the machine timed wrong and that has to do with the speed control switch entirely, let us know what you find if these are not the problems we have a ways to go but they are the usual culprits with your symtom.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 18, 2008

SOURCE: Knocking sound, pin loose

My pin came right out and I couldn't get it back in. I turned it upside down like someone recommended and loosened the screw, still couldn't get it to line up and go all the way through. I finally put a little cooking oil on the pin, turned the machine on it's side, and it went all the way through. Then I retightened the screw.

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Anonymous

  • 143 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2009

SOURCE: Question regarding KitchAid mixer, Model K45ss.

Yes this indeed does sound like you have a problem. There could be a couple different cause of this noise. If your main drive or worm gear has been damaged, it is likely to not run at all or jam up. So i think this is not the problem. There is however a codder pin located inside the transmission gears this can be seen by removing the upper housing of the unit, and then exposing the oil and gears. clear away the oil surrounding the gears, and save this grease for later. After this you should be able to visually see this codder pin AND the gears, rotate the gears while inspecting them and the pin. If the pin is slightly bent or broken this will make the grinding noise that your are talking about, while still operating and driving the unit. part number for the codder pin is 9705444. If however the noise is coming from the motor area this could indicate a worn or faulty motor bearing. This can cause the motor to operate on an angle and can cause a rubbing noise from the cooling fan or the winding of the motor itself rubbing on the mixer housing. Part number for the braket and bearing is 3180526. both are relatively cheap and easy to replace. If you find and fix the problem be sure to inspect or change the oil as this can often have metal chunks and other particles. Hope this Helps

Thanks

Appliance engineer

  • 225 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 25, 2010

SOURCE: My Kitchenaid mixer (k5ss lift bowl?) smells hot

I think you have a K45SS. It sounds like there is a problem with one of the gears, probably the worm gear. The worm gear is designed to be the first to fail if the mixer has struggled with a heavy dough or other difficult to mix substance. The best way to establish the cause will be to open the head up and check the gears for signs of damage.

Anonymous

  • 57 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 27, 2010

SOURCE: My Kitchenaid mixer (KV25G0XWW)5+ yrs old, started

go to any local hardware store Ace tell them you need retaing ring pliers to remove you c clip if you cant find try your automotive stores like autozone, advanced autoparts they should have retaing clip remover.you should also get some gear oil while your there for the gears sounds like you dont have any oil int the gears.heres an image to help you out.d456ce6.gif

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Anonymous

  • 235 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 24, 2010

SOURCE: the turning mechanics sound clunky

HI PANNABECKERS, sorry to hear about your mixer’s malaise. It is very disconcerting to purchase an expensive brand name kitchen appliance with a solid reputation and find the reality falls far short of your expectation, but I digress on KA quality. You don’t say how old your mixer is, but I’ll assume it’s no longer under warranty (you’ve had it over a year).
By the description of your mixer’s symptoms, I concur with your assessment and say that your mixer is headed for some type of mechanical /transmission breakdown, if it hasn’t failed completely, yet. What can you do?
The good news is that this can be fixed quite easily (OK, maybe with a little effort) by yourself, if you are a DITY type person, feel adventurous, and your mixer is not under warranty you can troubleshoot it yourself. Be sure you have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, in your case use KSM50P (Your K5SS mixer falls within this manual), and select the first file KSM50P.pdf (438.31 KB) listed under Parts List (4) and then check to verify this matches your mixer model.
Turn to pages 4 & 5, titled “Case, Gearing and Planetary Unit”, which provides and exploded view for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the part names and numbers.
To disassemble your mixer you will need a regular and Phillips screwdriver, snap-ring pliers, a small drift pin punch and a small hammer. By using the exploded views in the Part List manual, you should be able to disassemble, inspect, identify and replace broken/worn parts, and reassemble your mixer.
After clearing all the grease away, check to see if the gears are just loose, excessively worn or broken. If it’s worn or broken you can order replacement parts and install them yourself.
Besides a replacement gear, and grease you might consider replacing the gasket, too. You should use a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). It can be messy but quite gratifying to diagnose and repair your KA mixer yourself.
If you do need repair parts, here are five potential online vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com (for grease). You should search for ‘food grade grease’ online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping.
Finally, here are links to three excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer. The mixers displayed in the links are different KA models, but the principles are the same.

Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble and reassemble your mixer, should you decide to go that route.
If you feel this repair is beyond your capability, then I would seek out a local small appliance repair shop in your area. KA Customer Care can give you names of local KA authorized repair shops in your area, but you can also do an online search to supplement what KA may provide you. Call to explain your circumstances and find out their hourly rate and get an estimate of what they think it would cost to repair your mixer. Also, always obtain three or more estimates – do some comparison shopping. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution was helpful, please rate it, thanks! – hslincoln

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1answer

How do I fix my Kitchenaid mixer, that produces a loud clatter at low speeds and a burning smell?

That green sparking looks to be in the area of the off/on contacts, look for something causing them to not be touching properly. The speed control lever has a ramp on the plastic end that goes through that speed control plate to move that copper arm, that is the off/on switch. I'm wondering if maybe the voltage from your converter is not fully as it should be, just a thought. If you wanted to properly convert to Euro voltage you need an armature, a set of fields and that small PCB with the 6 wires off it just above the black speed control plate. You set your slowest speed (#1) with the 2 screws and locknuts on the top of the speed control plate. 13 to 15 rpm in 15 seconds, I do it by running mixer with palm of my hand in position to be bumped by the silver shaft on the planetary each revolution, count them and watch your second hand. Once that is done you set that bottom screw to just increase the speed as you click the lever into speed 2. Had a look at your video, the governor does not sound happy, it could be the back plate adjustment out of whack to cause it. You can email me with more questions if you like [email protected]
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Why will my kitchenaid stand mixer only go fast?

You will need to look under the back cover and make sure that the lever is moving the speed control plate out and in at the bottom. Out = fast. If that is moving freely and there are no broken pieces inside that back cover (springs, brass governor bits) then replacing the small pcb at the top with the 4 wires coming out of it should solve the problem.
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My governor assembly is broken and the speed controller does not work

You will need to buy a new governor from Kitchen Aid and possibly the speed control plate at the back. Often when the governor explodes it damages the contacts, they aren't expensive and it's easier than fluffing around trying to straighten it up.
0helpful
1answer

Mixer doesn't work on all speeds

First the K45SS does not have a hall effect sensor. the pro series the epicurean seines and the pro series 5 use them, The K45ss system uses a phase control board a speed control plate and a governor for speed control. the governor rarely goes out the phase control board is a likely culprit but the system would work only in high gear if it was bad. I agree with the guest above in that it sounds like the retaining nuts on the adjusting screws of the speed control board have worked themselves loose and the adjustment screws themselves have vibrated out of proper position.
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Fails to run

The governor should move back and forth as the speed control goes from speeds 1 through 10. It's purpose is to push on the control plate in order to obtain the different motor speeds.
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MOTOR SPEED WRONG

remove rear coverdome, dust off mechanism carefully with a vacuum and small brush. Inspect all the parts- the black plate with the wires connecting to it is the speed control; beneath it are centrifugal weights which form the governor- the faster the motor spinsthe further the governor assy pushes out agatnst the contacts on the control plate to keep the speed smoothly moderated. If you have speed control but it just runs too slow or not slow enough the two screws at top of the control plate can adjust the speed; loosten the jam nut slightly and adjust the screws evenly together. Be sure theres nothing worn out or damaged which could be fatal to the mechanism later.

note tht the bottom of the control plate is retained by a wire hook on the end of a spring. It is a problem to catch and pull out if you lose it inside the mixer. If you set speed too low you will lose all power at low speeds.

The condensor at top of nontrol plate has only two wires from it out either side a flat cardboard tube. If shorted you will lose all speed adjustment. Test by disconnecting one or both wires.DO NOT RUN MIXER WITHOUR CONDENSOR except for brief testing... otherwise your trouble is the PC board- the white grease is important behind the heat sink dont remove it (standard heatsink grease for computers, etc.)
Best of luck!
1helpful
1answer

Mixer only moves at one speed

Referring to the following parts description:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%208212369.pdf

The speed is controlled with a combination of the governor assembly #24 which mounts on the motor shaft, and the phase control board #27 which is mounted on the back of the mixer.

They operate in conjunction with item #25, the control plate assembly.

WARNING SHOCK HAZARD. FOLLOW THESE STEPS ONLY IF YOU ARE COMPETENT WORKING AROUND HOT ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS AND FOLLOW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS!!!

Remove the rear cover screw #37 and the rear cover #36 and examine the governor when it is running. Also watch the speed control lever mechanism as you move it from off to the highest speed watching for binding etc.

Make sure that the spring #4 is attached to the bottom of the control plate #25.

If the governor appears to be opening and closing as the speed increases and the linkage is not binding then the problem is most likely the Phase Control Board, item #27.
1helpful
1answer

Top speeds don't work

Referring to the following parts description:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%208212369.pdf

The speed is controlled with a combination of the governor assembly #24 which mounts on the motor shaft, and the phase control board #27 which is mounted on the back of the mixer.

They operate in conjunction with item #25, the control plate assembly.

WARNING SHOCK HAZARD. FOLLOW THESE STEPS ONLY IF YOU ARE COMPETENT WORKING AROUND HOT ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS AND FOLLOW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS!!!

Remove the rear cover screw #37 and the rear cover #36 and examine the governor when it is running. Also watch the speed control lever mechanism as you move it from off to the highest speed watching for binding etc.

If the governor appears to be opening and closing as the speed increases and the linkage is not binding then the problem is most likely the Phase Control Board, item #27.
1helpful
1answer

The mixer motor starts and stops, it will not continue running on any speed. By playing with the speed selector you can get it running sometimes but you cannot keep it running if you change speeds.

Here is how your speed control works:

Speed Control
The speed control of the mixer is attained through the use of a governor assembly mounted at the rear of the control plate assembly.
The electrical circuit is made and broken by the action of the fly ball governor revolving against the control plate.
When the switch lever is moved to an ON position, the position of the control plate with respect to the governor is changed by the action of the switch lever.
Thus, when the control plate is set close to the governor, a relatively low speed of the motor causes the governor to make or break the mixer’s electrical circuit through the control plate.
When the control plate is set farther away, a greater motor speed is required before the governor starts breaking the circuit.
The action of the governor is such that the speed of the motor will remain constant for a given setting of the control plate within certain loads.
After certain loads have been exceeded, the speed of the motor will drop to meet the torque requirements of the given load.
Speed is controlled by the governor and the control plate in conjunction with the phase control.

TRIAC RMS VOLTAGE
BOTH CONTACTS OPEN - 40 VOLTS
ONE CONTACT OPEN - 80 VOLTS
BOTH CONTACTS CLOSED - FULL VOLTAGE
NOTE: The triac regulates the power the motor sees depending on control board contacts.
A device called a triac is a part of the phase control circuit.
This device determines the amount of power the motor sees dependent upon the condition of the control board contacts.
If both contacts are open, about 40 volts RMS is applied to the motor and about 80 volts is applied when either contact is closed and the other is open.
When both contacts are closed, the triac is full on; consequently, full power is applied to the motor. In this way, the speed is controlled.
If the mixer motor begins to run too fast for a
particular speed setting, one or both contacts open, which cuts back on the voltage the motor sees, thus slowing it up.
If the motor operation becomes too slow, one or both contacts will close, applying the needed voltage to the motor to sufficiently increase motor speed.
This is always accomplished through the triac.
The control plate contacts control the triac, and in turn, controls the amount of power supplied to the motor.

The control Plate for your mixer is PN
W10119326
http://www.marbeck.com/mixers_kitchenaid_parts.html

If your not good with tools / meters or tedious repairs do NOT attempt this yourself.
The service manual for your mixer can be found here
http://www.f-ems.com/download/DownLoad.aspx?DocsID=082009012917

and is:
LIT4177310-C


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