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Posted on Feb 15, 2009
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Furnace shut off after 3 time flame from pilot

Hi a have problem with my furnace.Thermostat call for heat ignition start in time and flame com out for about 5-10 sec then off,ignition com back the same thing for 3 time and my furnace shut off.please help me .THE FLAME COME OUT FROM PILOT THREE TIME AND SHUT OFF FURNACE

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  • Posted on Feb 16, 2009
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Sounds like you may have a weak or bad flame sensor. If the circuit board does not sense a good flame it will not light the burners. Also if your furnace is 5 yrs or newer it should give you a fault on circuit board in the form of a blinking or a code itself.

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0helpful
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My CUHN 75A-1 gas heater will not light. 4 flash code = high limit or rollout switch open. when I cycle start, the large fan runs, where normally it only starts after the heater lights.

  • What Is Electronic Ignition?

    Jupiterimages/Getty images The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that provides more reliable performance than a standing pilot and offers energy savings through better furnace efficiency. There are two basic types of electronic ignition systems:
    • An intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high-voltage electric spark to ignite a pilot light and subsequently the main burners when the thermostat calls for heat.
    • A hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element, not unlike a light bulb filament, to ignite the gas burner.
    Understanding some of the basic components of a modern furnace will help you identify the type of furnace you have and narrow down the list of potential problems.
  • 02of 05

    Types of Electronic Ignition Furnaces


    Design Pics/Getty images Most furnaces with electronic ignition are either conventional induced draft furnaces or high-efficiency condensing furnaces.
    Induced draft furnaces use a small fan to draw the combustion gasses from the combustion chamber and out of the house through the flue (chimney). This system is more reliable and safer than old conventional furnaces, which relied on a natural draft coming in from an opening at the front of the furnace. Induced draft furnaces use either an intermittent pilot (IP) or hot surface ignition (HSI) instead of a standing pilot light. The combination of electronic ignition, electronic controls, and artificially created draft improves the efficiency of induced draft furnaces over older conventional models.
    Condensing furnaces use two heat exchangers, where conventional furnaces use only one. After the gas is burned to heat the primary heat exchanger, the secondary heat exchanger draws heat out of the hot exhaust gasses, cooling them to the point that the water vapor in the exhaust condenses into water. The resulting flue gases are so cool they can be vented outside via a plastic (PVC) pipe, while the condensed water is run to a floor drain. Condensing furnaces use hot surface ignition (HSI).
  • 03of 05

    Troubleshooting an Intermittent Pilot (IP)


    Michael Interisano / Design Pics / Getty images Typically found in induced draft furnaces, an intermittent pilot ignites the burner gas with a high-voltage spark only when the thermostat calls for heat. Once the pilot is lit, and the main burner senses the pilot flame (using a flame sensing rod), the main burner ignites. The intermittent pilot flame goes out after the heating cycle and remains off until the next time the thermostat calls for heat.
    The furnace gas valve for this type of furnace is identifiable with its solenoid designations: MV, PV, and PV/MV - where MV = main valve, PV = pilot valve, and PV/MV = common.
    Common problems with IP ignition include:
    • Ignition doesn't occur, and the furnace won't go on
    • A spark is present, but the pilot won't light
    • Pilot lights, but the main burner doesn't come on
    • Burners ignite but turn off after a few seconds
  • 04of 05

    Troubleshooting a Hot Surface Igniter (HSI)

    The hot surface igniter (HSI) is the most commonly used electronic ignition system. It works like a light bulb filament, heating up when electricity is passed through it. Most are made from silicon nitride or silicon carbide. The igniter is located in the flow of gas entering the burners.
    When the thermostat calls for heat, 24 volts are sent to the electronic ignition control module, which energizes the furnace blower and other systems and sends 120 volts to the HSI. The HSI heats up to around 1,800°F to 2,500°F and glows red-hot. Then the gas valve opens, and the burner gas is ignited by the HSI. Once a proper flame is sensed by the flame sensor, the HSI turns off and stays off until the next heating cycle. In some furnaces, the HSI also serves as a flame sensor (called local sensing) instead of having a separate sensing rod in the burner flame (remote sensing).
    Under normal conditions, an HSI should last for three to five years, and they eventually crack and need to be replaced. This can happen sooner if the oils from your skin get on the element through improper handling. That means: Don't touch the element with your bare hands!
    HSIs usually cost between $25 and $50, and it's a good idea to keep a spare on hand, in case one goes out at night or on the weekend, when you can't easily get a new part.
    Here are some of the common causes of HSI failure:
    • Premature failure due to improper handling (oil from skin got onto element)
    • Improper igniter
    • End of normal usage life cycle (keep a replacement on hand)
    • Voltage in the furnace electrical circuit is too high (over 125 VAC)
    • Severely dirty air filter, causing the high-temperature limit switch to cycle the furnace ignition on and off frequently
  • 05of 05

    Reading Control Board Codes


    Mohd Firdaus Mohd Damanhuri/EyeEm/Getty images Most modern furnaces with electronic ignition systems have an integrated circuit board that controls many sophisticated processes. The boards can perform self-diagnostics and provide failure codes, similar to the diagnostic computer in your car.
    If a failure occurs, LED lights on the control board light up in a blinking pattern to indicate a specific failure code. The codes are listed in a chart in the owner's manual and usually on a door or access panel on the furnace. Control boards are usually located inside the blower compartment of the furnace. If the board has blinking lights, refer to the chart to decipher the code and help identify the problem area with the furnace.
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Nov 20, 2018 • Heating & Cooling
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1answer

How do I light pilot light?
There should not be a pilot on a direct vent furnace. When you turn up the thermostat for heat the 1st thing to happen is a venter motor should start, it should vent for approximately 45 seconds, the air switch will verify a vacuum in the burner box, then a spark igniter should start clicking to start the pilot, then the flame rod will verify the pilot, the igniter will stop clicking, and the main burner will ignite and remain on until the thermostat has satisfied the set point. These guideline steps must be satisfied before the controller advances to the next step. The 1st step is the venter motor running, sometimes the motor will stick over the summer months, spin it manually to unstick it. PS, nothing runs if the fan door cover is open, as that shuts down the power to the whole furnace.
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Oct 02, 2015 • Coleman Gas Fired Mobile Home Furnace,...
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1answer

Why does it start, then shut down followed by 3 clicks?
  • Thermostat calls for heat
  • Venter motor starts
  • Air switch verifies vacuum
  • Igniter sparks, or glows - depending on furnace
  • Flame starts in burner
  • Flame rod senses flame
  • Burner continues to burn until thermostat stops calling for heat
By your description, I would polish your flame rod, it will be a metal rod that is insulated from the bracket that is screwed to the furnace case and it will have a single wire attached to flame rod,
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Sep 29, 2015 • Intertherm 56000 Btu Gas Furnace
1helpful
1answer

Furnace cuts off before reaching set temp.
You can make sure it is not the thermostat by crossing or jumping the R and W terminals (or associated wires) together. This will keep the furnace calling for heat. As it is approaching set temperature, get in front of the furnace and inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean, watch the control module for any error codes that may be turning off the system prematurely.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Mar 07, 2010 • Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater
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1answer

Thermostat calls and from time to time won't ignite
I would first look at any wire connections both at the furnace and the thermostat. Then I would replace the thermostat. Check the units control board when it does not start for an error code. There should be a small viewing port to look into the furnace cabinet to see the control board.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Feb 12, 2010 • Goodman Heating & Cooling
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1answer

I have a goodman furnace model#GMT045-3A. when I turn it on the electronic pilot works fine and the furnace will start and run about 30-45seconds then shut off. I followed the insructions for restart but...
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Jan 26, 2010 • Goodman Heating & Cooling
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3answers

Ruud furnace Model URKA A030jK08 Code opt 589
Flip the lower panel over and look for a wiring diagram. On that diagram there will be a diagnostic chart. Let me know what 5 blinks represent. Then I want you to read on.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
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Nov 23, 2009 • Heating & Cooling
0helpful
2answers

FURNACE COMES ON AND SHUTS DOWN WITHIN 15 SECONDS
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control). When all else fails, check the ground connection for corrosion.
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Nov 23, 2009 • Heating & Cooling
0helpful
1answer

Amana furnace main burner intermitent
Sounds like dirty flame sensor. You can either clean it orreplace it.
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Apr 21, 2009 • Honeywell Power Humidifier: Furnace...
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1answer

1986 Weathermaker SX 150 series, model S85X060-CC-1
There are 4 -steps for full run time to kick in a furnace.. step-1, inducer fan runs & prove thru the air tube which closes a switch and tell the circuit board to go to step-2, the igniter lights the pilot & prove its lit by heating the thermocouple, which tells the circuit board to go to step-3, opens the gas valve to dump gas in, which will light from the pilot light, and prove by a flame sensor metal stick on the last burner , which heats up and tell the circuit board Saying, ok , I've got flame.. step-4. when the box heats up, it closes a switch and turn on the main fan...! (Some gas-valves has a brain -or circuit board on top of them and are real sensetive to moisture..)
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Sep 05, 2008 • Heating & Cooling
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My CUHN 75A-1 gas heater will not light. 4 flash code = high limit or rollout switch open. when I cycle start, the large fan runs, where normally it only starts after the heater lights.

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