Blowing high limit fuse

Hi. Can you post your model number and I will see if I can help.

Cheers, James.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_1fa6cc8df96424be

3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

when the thermal fuse or the high limit pops it's because the dryer is running to hot,all a dryer does is move air,when one of the fuses pops it's from a block from lint either in the lint filter duct or the vent line,if the air can't blow outside or out of the dryer the fuse will blow.if your vent line is long remove it from the back of dryer and stick a leaf blower into the vent line and blow all the lint outside,make sure there isn't a cage or anything blocking the outside hood,then pull out the lint filter,take the dryer apart,remove the lint filter duct and clean it out,also vac and blow out the cabinet and motor,you should do this once a year,your clothes will dry on time,less parts will get damaged from overheating ,your electric bill will be less and most important you won't have a dryer fire.hope this helps,the fuse will keep blowing until you clean out the dryer and vent line.

The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.




Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.

Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer (110.74722400) Bulkhead Parts

the limit thermostats are tripped. unplug your dryer before you do anything. there is an access panel on the back of the dryer over the heating element. some of them are resettable, they will have a red button in the middle. press them one at a time. if you hear one click, that means you found it. put the cover back on, plug it in, and check it. some of the limit switches are not resettable. they are like fuses that blow one time and have to be replaced. you will have to check them with a volt meter. they usually blow because the dryer ducting in your wall is clogged, and there is not enough airflow to take the heat away from the heating elements. the thermal limits blow to keep the dryer from catching on fire due to the high temperatures. If you dont resolve the airflow issue, it will blow the new thermal limits also. take it with you to the appliance store, along with your model number to make sure you get the proper replacement.

if its heated electrically, not by gas,then it sounds like the heating element has shorted to the case and this would blow the breaker

The problem will be either your vent is stopped up or the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat are bad. If the vent is clean, both the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat are welded closed. Both are supost to open to avoid over heating. Go to www.partselect.com and enter your complete model number. It will bring up diagrams of you machine. From there you can find the parts ans also order them if you want to. Good luck.

If a dryer is not working at all that's not good! But it doesn't mean you need to go appliance shopping just yet. It may be something very simple like a bad door switch or even a broken door switch actuator, in a kenmore dryer there is a tab thats sticks out of a hole in the wall that allows the dryer to run only if the door is shut, other models may have button that protrudes out of the dryer and when the door is shut, this allows the dryer to run. These switches go out from time to time, also if a dryer is full of lint build-up over time this will cause the dryer high limit or fuse to blow. The fuse is located near where the blower is in most cases. When the air in the dryer gets way too hot the fuse/hi-limit will blow and the house wont burn down

Check the blower wheel attached to your motor.
It may be free-wheeling causing too high a temp thet is blowing the fuses.

get a new dryer cord