The rear wheel has a nut and washer to remove but after removing them how does the rim come away from the shaft. No sign of a wood ruff key evident or even a spline on the shaft?
These wheels are usually just held on with a Key way, ALOT OF TIME they offer resistance because they are rusted insode the rim and are needing a mallet to hit them from the inside pretty hard.
Turn it as you can usually a lever on the back side of the mower can be pulled out without the brake on to slip the transmission into nuetral. Turn the tire. I have used a small peice of 2x4 as well because a hammer dont fit well. Good luck I will watch this post and search my Diagrams to see if i have this rider tmrw at work.!
The rear wheels fitted to the Stickman series Rear Axle/Driven gear sprocket assembly are both keyed and and taper fitted to the shafts . The wheel is soft aluminium and the hub can be damaged by too much hammer & drift use. The retention nuts & washers tend to squash the wheel onto the axle threads. I cleaned that area with a vey small dremel tool bit and a scriber. Then applied heat from the outside to the hub, around the axle, with a Bosch heat gun. Feel the inside of the wheel hub axle boss - when you can fell its hot thats enough. While hub is hot. Switch off heat gun & Use Loctite freeze on the shaft only. If that is not available use Penetrene ( Penetrating Oil) on the shaft /wheel hub joint from inside and outside the hub. have patience and use only moderate hammer and drift force on the inner hubs. If you have to use a puller -Do not use one that applies force to the wheel rim. Bruce Ramsay-Victoria Australia
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February 2022. Many years after the 2005 Model was purchased !
Tried to remove Lft Rear wheel to access Brake Lining. Knowing that the wheel is light Alloy, I tried WD40, CRC, Penetrene, Wurth Freeze etc. Not a budge.
Tried wedging and leverage from inside against Drive Sprocket, plus reasonable Hammering via Wood to absorb some shock and NOT damage rim. Nothing.
Tried gentle Heat via Heatgun ... zilch. Then gentle application with Propane to expand the Alloy... zilch again !
I ended up drilling 3 x 1/2" holes on the flat inner wheel face and using a HOLDEN Harmonic Balancer Puller with 3 long bolts and nuts passed through from the Inside with large Washers, plus more gentle heat without damaging the Tyre .... bingo !
Done ... and yes, RUST was prolific around the Axle Shaft AND Key area. No damage to Wheel, no affect on Tyre or Tube . . . horror of a job.
Now for the RIGHT one ... lol
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