I unplugged my mini fridge 24 hours before I left for winter vacation at my school. The next day, I drained it and cleaned it out. So when I came back 3 weeks later and plugged up my mini fridge again, this time it was not the least bit cold. I'm afraid that my items will soon spoil if I don't figure out what I can do to fix this problem.
Is the unit running? If so then,
by shutting the unit down for a long period may have exposed a pinhole leak of refrigerant at an external brazing point. or you may have caused an issue in cleaning it This is something that would require a licensed technician to resolve.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720
SOURCE: GE Profile PTS25LBMARWW - Power, but no Cold
yes the mother board is located under the plate in the back.. but when you replaced the relay did you put on a 3in1 relay or a manufactured relay?
SOURCE: kenmore fridge stopped cooling
sounds like its freezing up on you. check the drain outlet and make sure that its clear. also i would replace the defrost timer on this unit because its suppose to bring on the heaterfs to melyt the ice so thaat yoiu don't have to. they are around 30 mdollars at the appliancew repair store and all you need is the model number and serial number for the uit. after you get it it's either on the very top of the refrigerator section or in the very back. It has 4 wires going to it. good luck.
SOURCE: blows warm air, unpluged it for 2 days plugged back in blew very
Either the start relay and start capacitor or the Adaptive Defrost control is burned out. If you have a voltage meter we can test a few things like the compressor and the capasitor. The part number for the Adaptive defrost is 241508001 and found inside the fresh food compartment behind the control panel. I can help you locate the problem if you like. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
SOURCE: My fridge does not get cold anymore....
You may be able to DIY if the problem is what I think it is.
Most combination units have the cooling located in the freezer compartment and use a fan to 'stir' the cold air and distribute it to the refrigerator compartment.
If this fan fails, then the fridge no longer gets fed any cooled air or at least very little.
With the compressor running, hold a couple of wet fingers near the vents in the fridge that are located in the back and top.
If you don't find a fairly good stream of cold air coming oout of the vents, then the fan is definitely bad.
These fans have only sleeve bearings of sintered bronze with graphite embedded in them.
They can build up enough loose graphite to jam the motor shaft so the fan cannot turn any more.
Sometimes, if the bearing is not too worn, you can work WD-40 or similar into them by spraying while turning the fan with a finger (power off, of course!). The WD-40 should be used to wash out the graphite from the bearing, don't expect it to really lubricate, it is a good solvent but evaporates pretty quickly.
Once the fan turns easily, grasp one or more blades and move it left or right, up or down, to feel if the bearing has now too much play.
If it does, replace the fan, they aren't expensive (that's why they fail).
As far accessing the fan, you are on your own since access varies from one brand to another.
SOURCE: refrigerator/freezer not cold as they should be
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main
control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger
wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3
. Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1
end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min ,
look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red
glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a
shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat (
pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to
remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils ,
held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire
going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control
board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting .
This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the
coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to
also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front
of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor ,
is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off .
337 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×