At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
The light worked so it was getting power. I used a electrical tester (pencil like device I bought at lowes) to figure out that power was making it to the thermostat (black wire) but not after the switch (blue wire).
To change the thermostat.
1) take cover off the front bottom and back panel of fridge.
2) unscrew the old thermostat. leave black and blue wires on it so you will know where to put them on the new one.
3) take out glass shelves on inside. Unscrew back panel. There are 2 phillips screws that hold the end of the thermometer to back panel.
reach hand under it and feed the thermometer back through hole and out back of fridge.You will notice a puddy like substance that fills in the hole in the back where the thermometer gets fed through. Make sure you keep it to fill in the hole in the back. 4) feed new thermometer end through hole in the back and install to back panel. Put the puddy back in the hole to insulate around it.
5) feed the electrical end of thermostat through bottom of fridge
6) take the wires off the old one and attach to the new one.
7) attach the thermostat to its mounting location
8) reinstall all the screws in the front and back and you are in business.
Had a hard time finding someone to service it. They wanted $200 to come out to the house + parts and labor.
The new thermostat cost $33 at All Brand appliance. I am from Mass and picked it up in Brockton. I emaile dU-line and they sent me the new part number. The allBrandappliance site had the old part number (2766-s)
I am not an electrician and this was a few hours work.
I have the same issue, but can't figure out how to get the big coil on the part number 2766-s to go through the tiny hole the original (without the coil) went through. I tried un-coiling it, but the tubing broke.I have the same issue, but can't figure out how to get the big coil on the part number 2766-s to go through the tiny hole the original (without the coil) went through. I tried un-coiling it, but the tubing broke.
I have the same issue, but can't figure out how to get the big coil on the part number 2766-s to go through the tiny hole the original (without the coil) went through. I tried un-coiling it, but the tubing broke.I have the same issue, but can't figure out how to get the big coil on the part number 2766-s to go through the tiny hole the original (without the coil) went through. I tried un-coiling it, but the tubing broke.
Had a new issue just a year back. The light had power but the fan and condenser wouldn't work. The fix was replacing a relay or control part (cant remember which). You need to take off the back and you can access these at the bottom. The price was < $20 I think.Had a new issue just a year back. The light had power but the fan and condenser wouldn't work. The fix was replacing a relay or control part (cant remember which). You need to take off the back and you can access these at the bottom. The price was < $20 I think.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I know this is obvious but are you sure the bulb isn't just burnt out? Assuming that's not the problem get an electrical tester and set it on continuity. Then test first the switch in both high and low positions and then the wiring to the bulbs. If everything tests ok glu a tiny piece of sandpaper to the end of a pencil ersaer and lightly sand all the contacts.
<span>I am reposting <b>Don Willis's</b> EXCELLENT but hard to find tutorial on how to replace a thermostat on a <b>U-line 75R</b> as a HOW-TO Since he spelled "refrigerator" incorrectly (Refidgerator), </span><span>Google cannot find it easily! I followed these instruction and finished in about an hour. </span>
<span><br /></span>
<span>Got the thermostat part on eBay from a venfor called Part Peddler.</span>
<span>The U-Line part number is 2766-S, cost me about $30,shipped.</span>
<span><br /></span>
<span>Don's post follows, my comments in {} brackets: </span>
<span><br /></span>
<span>The light worked so it was getting power. </span>
<span><br /></span>
<span>I used an electrical tester (pencil like device I bought at Lowe's) to figure out that power was making it to the thermostat (black wire) but not after the switch (blue wire). </span>
<span><br /></span>
<span>To change the thermostat. </span>
<span><br /></span>
<ol>
<li><span>Take covers off the front bottom (one flathead 1/4" hex screw) and back panel (about 10 flathead 1/4" hex screws) of fridge.</span></li>
<li><span>Unscrew the old thermostat (2 screws). Leave black and blue wires on it so you will know where to put them on the new one.</span></li>
<li><span>Take out glass shelves on inside. Unscrew back panel {note: there are spacers that will fall out} . There are 2 phillips screws {on nuts} that hold the end of the thermometer to back panel. {I removed one and loosened the other to free the "coil" thermostat) reach hand under the back panel and feed the thermometer back through hole and out back of fridge. You will notice a putty like substance that fills in the hole in the back where the thermometer gets fed through. Make sure you keep it to fill in the hole in the back. </span></li>
<li><span>Feed new thermometer {coil} end through hole in the back {I found that using a Phillips head screwdriver to guide the coil through was useful} and install to back panel {using those two Philips screws and nuts}. </span></li>
<li><span>Put the putty back in the hole from the back to insulate around it. </span></li>
<li><span>Feed the electrical end of thermostat through bottom of fridge</span></li>
<li><span>Take the wires off the old one and attach to the new one. </span></li>
<li><span>Attach the thermostat to its mounting location </span></li>
<li><span>Reinstall all the screws in the front and back and you are in business.</span></li></ol><span>Had a hard time finding someone to service it. They wanted $200 to come out to the house + parts and labor. The new thermostat cost $33 at All Brand appliance. I am from Mass and picked it up in Brockton. I emaile dU-line and they sent me the new part number. The allBrandappliance site had the old part number (2766-s) I am notan electrician and this was a few hours work.</span>
Probably the main wire is faulty or the fuse has blown out.open the cooker from below
{find,check the fuse with a continuity tester}do check the main wire with the help of a continuity tester too for any kind of breakage.If there is no continuity or the tester bulb does not light up there is a fault with the component.Replace the wire/Fuse with the same rating or quality and your cooker will surely work
You have 2 wires. Unplug and put wires together. Plug unit back in and check to see if everything is running. Doesnt matter where the wires go with a 2 wire thermostat
It could be a few different things causing this. FIlter in the water line may be plugged, the circuit itself may have gone bad, the water lines froze, or the bar or it's circuit may be stuck of faulty. The best way to determine is to use a multi-tester and check to see if the unit is getting power, and to where and when the power is stopping.
If you need a tech please visit U-lines website www.u-line.com and under customer service you will see service locator. That should give you a list of companies.
I would call Uline directly and allow them to recommend someone in your area that does warranty work for Uline. In this fashion, you are assured professional results and OEM parts....
×