My LG range was having problems where the stovetop burner and/or oven would just shut off. In the case of the oven, sometimes it would fail during the preheat stage, while other times it would shut off after preheating. The control panels were replaced on the range twice. LG finally decided to replace the entire unit. While the stovetop burners now seem to work without problem, I'm still having trouble with the oven shutting off. I thought that maybe there's a problem with the electrical wiring, but I can turn all 5 stovetop burners on at high power at the same time, and they work fine, so it doesn't seem like a house wiring problem.
Guys, I dont know whether this got solved yet. I had the same issue sometime back. The issue with LG is that after continuous usage for about 30 minutes or so, the microwave automatically shutsdown and will only restart after cooling. This is a saftey feathure inbuilt to prevent overheating of the oven and magnetron. So please let me know as to how long you were using the microwave before if turned off.
When you say "Just shut off" do you mean the circuit breakers would trip, or fuses would blow? If so, I would have an electrician check that the circuit is properly fused/breakered and wire sized for the amount of power required by the oven. If the installation directions say it needs a 50 amp service, it better be a 50 amp service.
If shutting off is just something within the oven, then get LG back out again, and let us know of what they say is wrong.
Something sounds fishy here. Are the replaced controller boards "New" boards?
Is the tech certain that there is not a bad sensor or wiring connection point somewhere in the unit (Although you wouldn't expect the same problem to exist in two separate units.).
Is the ground or neutral bonding wire properly connected to the oven, AND at the fuse box/breaker panel? I would have both checked, with visual inspection of all terminations, not just a check with a voltmeter. You may have a burned termination in the fuse box/breaker panel and not even know about it. Have them pull the breakers and inspect the contact points of the breaker to buss, and the same with fuses if you have those.
Reply what you find with any of the above. I just find it hard to believe LG it's a design flaw that others are not experiencing high rates of failure as well.
If the service isn't adequate but marginal, the unit could act fine for a few weeks, then start to act up. For instance, if the unit is supposed to be on a 40 amp circuit, but it's on a 30, then the strain on the older circuit could cause house wiring to heat up more, then when it cools, then heats, then cools over and over again, the connections become loose, making the problem worse. I would strongly recommend this be reviewed by an electrician before continuing use of the oven or cooktop.
OK, remind me, is it tripping at the circuit breakers, or at the unit?
If it's the breakers, did the electrician confirm the breaker size and wire size with the electrical specifications listed on the oven?
Has anyone gone through all the wiring, inch by inch, on the oven and looked for places where wiring may be shorting to ground?
Is it possible that you may have an element that is intermittently shorting to ground? One way to tell is, does the "tripping off" problem happen with any particular burner element, or only when the oven is on?
I am going to bet that there is a bad wire or connection somewhere in the oven element circuit. When that element heats up, it moves due to expansion. It could have an internal short that is intermittent. But there is a short somewhere in the unit.
And something tells me they didn't replace the entire unit, unless you actually watched them remove the old one, follow them out to the truck, and saw a new one removed from the box and brought in.
If this is the case, or even if it isn't, I would be in touch with LG. Send them a copy of our communications so they know the problems you've had, and what the techs have been doing, and we have been doing, to try to find the problem. And when it comes to their finally fixing it, if they do, press LG for some kind of compensation. You should not have to go through all of this.
Keep me posted on what you find out. I would love to be there to figure this one out myself.
Well,
Believe it or not, I do get into that part of the country on occasion. Who do you work for, maybe we have a common element that my company can be a part of what your company does.
While not near you, I'll be in Detroit in the next few weeks, and probably Montreal in the next few months, for my regular job.
Email me at [email protected] and we can discuss further, as well as keep in touch on this issue.
Congrats! Sounds like through your persistence, he may have hit it, although it's weird that two ovens responded the same way for this type of problem.
Leads me to think it was the relay, but who knows without testing.
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No, the circuit breaker has never tripped. It's just the oven itself that shuts off.
I've had a repairman check out the range several times. The first LG range had gone through 3 control panels (including the one that came with the oven). Now, the repairman has ordered a replacement control panel from LG. That means that in less than 4 months, I've gone through two LG LRE9055ST control panels and two ranges.
Yes, al the control boards that have been ordered were brand new. During the last visit by the repairman, all the connections to the range were checked and tightened. The unit worked fine when it was tested, but then started having problems again soon afterward. I find it hard to believe that four different control boards and two different ranges would give the same problem, which makes me suspect that maybe there is a problem with the house wiring from the circuit breaker panel to the range. It is old wiring, but I never had any problem with any of my previous ranges, but maybe these newer ranges are more electrically demanding. My electriciansaid it would cost $400 to relace the entire cable, so I'm reluctant to spend that money until I know for sure whether that's the problem. I will provide an update when I have anything new to report back. Thanks for your help.
One thing I wanted to mention which may not have been clear in my previous posts is that it's not like the oven always give a problem. Although it shuts off more often than not, sometimes it works perfectly. In fact, after I got the replacement range, it worked perfectly for the first couple of weeks. However, since then a day rarely goes by when the oven doesn't shut off at some point. Usually I can turn it back on again and eventually it will get the job done, but it is quite a nuisance.
Well, the electrician came over today and replaced the entire electrical cable from the circuit breaker to the range, and the oven still has the same problem. Needless to say this have become very frustrating.
I have never had the circuit breaker trip. All the stovetop burners work fine. In fact, I can run all 5 stovetop burners on high at once with no problem. It's just the oven that shuts off (sometimes during the pre-heat, sometimes afterward, and sometimesit works fine). In the past I have gotten an F-11 error, but most of the time the oven just shuts off without any error message or warning. Today my electrician replaced the entire conduit and checked all the connections (at the breaker panel as well as the oven itself). He said everything looked good. Also, the electric company just came over today as well to see if maybe there was a problem with the power supply coming into the house. They replaced some connections for good measure but said they didn't see any problems. If there was a problem with the wiring befoe it got replaced, could it have failed the control board? If so, I'll find out on Monday because the appliance repairman is coming over to replace the board. Hopefully that will solve the problem for good. At this point, it seems like I've just got bad luck with LG ranges.
According to the installer, the new LG range is actually a more recent model, although I don't know how he could tell because the model # still says LRE30955S. I did confirm the new range has a different serial number, so it would appear to be a totally different unit. Your diagnosis seems to make perfect sense. I just don't understand how I could have the same problem with two different units. I'm a reliability engineer, and even I have a hard time believing that two different units could have a common mode of failure without other owners having a similar problem. If I find anything out, I will definitely let you know. If you're ever in Westchester County, NY, you're definitely welcome to come over and take a look at it.
Well, the repairman came back one last time yesterday and replaced not only the entire front panel (which contains the controls and ribbon) but also the Oven Relay PCB. So far so good! The oven tested fine last night after he finished replacing the parts. Everything also worked great tonight when my wife did some actual cooking using the oven. In fact, it reminded us of one of the reasons we picked the range in the 1st place, which is that it has one of the fastest heatup times in the business (it preheated from a cold start to 350 F in a little less than 10 minutes).
a repair shop came out last week and changed my control panel for the second time in eight months.. oven just kept shutting off during cook time.. made thanksgiving exciting let me tell ya.. well as of today everthing is good.. had to change the temperature 35 degrees to meet my wireless thermometer.. but other than that the keypad works really well now, don't have to hit the buttons.
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