Manual defrost fixes problem for 2-3 weeks, then problem returns. Frost develops in freezer. One repair man came, said door gaskets need to be replaced. The gaskets are contacting well all around both refrig and freezer doors, so I am skeptical. I think maybe defrost not working. Where is access to defrost timer and heaters? Any way to manually over-ride defrost circuit in order to make it go into defrost cycle?
Evaporator fan motor inside the freezer is working? Any frost on the freezer back wall?
This is the fan inside the freezer section, it will circulate the cold
air around in the freezer and blow the cold air from the freezer into
the fresh food section, it also sucks the warm air from the fresh food
section back into the freezer to be re-cooled.
Hot condensor coils ( under the refrigerator ) been cleaned recently?
**GSS25LGMA**
That is part of a full model#.
Evaporator fan motor
Also check the thermostat may be malfunctioning. Do you hear a clicking or anything different when you turn the temperature control?
Also To check the defrost system, you can manually advance the defrost timer
in the top of the refrigerator compartment to turn on the defrost
heater. Take the cover off the refrigerator light. You will see the
defrost timer behind this cover. Turn the timer clockwise until you
hear the evaporator fan shut off.
Check the glass tube heating elements in the freezer to make sure
that they turn on. If the heaters do not work, you can disconnect
electrical power and check the resistance of the heaters. Each heater
is 7 ohms. You should measure 14 ohms of resistance through the heater
circuit. I am showing blue and pink wires running through the defrost
heaters. If you suspect that a heater is bad, look for black or burned
spots on the ends of the glass heater tube. This would verify a heater
failure.
If the heater resistance is good, check the defrost
thermostat. This thermostat will have pink and orange wires running to
it. It should be closed (near 0 ohms resistance) at normal freezer
temperatures. It is designed to open at about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If
it is open (infinite resistance), it will need to be replaced. Also,
look for loose or broken wires in the circuit. After repairing any
defective component, reconnect power and test the circuit.
If
your defrost cycle is working properly, your problems could have been
caused by the water leak. After the water leak is repaired, observe the
freezer operation.
check the defrost
thermostat. This thermostat will have pink and orange wires running to
it. It should be closed (near 0 ohms resistance) at normal freezer
temperatures. It is designed to open at about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If
it is open (infinite resistance), it will need to be replaced. Also,
look for loose or broken wires in the circuit
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Remove Your Kick plate And It Should Have Instructions On How To Force Defrost. If Its Not There Unplug The Unit For 30 Seconds Then Plug It Back In Then Find The Temp Control In The Fridge Switch It Off Then On. This Should Force Defrost On Most Units.
In My opinion It Sounds Like you Need A New thermostat Or Timer If Equipped.
No way to Manually override these. You will need to Empty the Freezer and Remove the Shelves. Remove the Rear wall Panel inside the Freezer to locate these Components.
If the freezer seems to be doing nothing, see the "It doesn't work at all" section, above. Otherwise, check these:
You can't service these yourself. You need to contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
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