Fisher and Paykel Aquasmart wl80t65c Logo
Rwaldron Posted on Jan 09, 2013
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Aquasmart bowl not turning freely, problem with stator assembly?

As the bowl cannot turn freely, the machine won't spin. With out the rotor on, the shaft turns ok. Put the rotor back on and turn it and it gets slightly stuck with a bit more turning pressure it will continue to turn.

1 Answer

Greg Stephen

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  • Fisher and P... Expert 566 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 10, 2013
Greg Stephen
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Joined: Feb 07, 2013
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Hi your shaft may be bent,Or metal particles on the rotor magnets.
Get someone to turn the bowl & you look at the shaft without the rotor on & see if it's bent.

5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Jul 30, 2007

SOURCE: F&P Smart Drive #703 trouble

possible outer casing out of alinment, try lining up while doing up the bolts. Regards Engineer

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Anonymous

  • 30 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 15, 2007

SOURCE: machine not filling with hot water

First check the filters in the inlet hose and hot water pressure. Sounds to me like the hot water valve is faulty. Test the w/machine on a hot water cycle, if you hear a noise and its not filling it up with water,its a faulty hot water valve. Air pressure?? change the water valve and remember it has a little rubber boot on the old water valve, transfer this to the new valve,or go into option adjustment mode and change you wash temperature settings.

Anonymous

  • 30 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 15, 2007

SOURCE: washing machine wont fill with hot water

if you pull the filter out of you (hot water) valve with a pair of long nose pliers you will see a black rubber seal. pull this rubber ring put as it acts like a restrictor.

luisa_sgro

  • 713 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 10, 2010

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel WL80T65D washing machine won't fill or spin

Hi just read your posting.Now when the red spanner light was flashing were there any other lights that were on.If there was then they will be in your cycle selection row.This row has 8 lights on it.Starting from left to right what lights were lit?Is it the 1st and 4th or the 3rd and 7th ---etc---?Please reply with additional information on the questions and I can help you rectify this problem.

James Foster

  • 251 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 09, 2011

SOURCE: Something is stuck underneath the

Hi - with aquasmarts there is a plastic dome like fitting in the middle of the agitator & unscrew this to remove the unit.

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Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.
Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.
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Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

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F then 50 flashes when the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) senses no rotation.
Does basket turn freely? If not, make sure bottom shipping pack has been removed. Determine cause of friction.
If basket turns freely,perform the test below..

This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves. NOTE: Drain water from tub.
  1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Agitate and Spin tests under Manual: Motor. The following steps assumes that this stepfailed.
  2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
  3. Check to see if basket will turn freely. If basket turns freely, go to step 4. If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical friction or lock up.
  4. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
  5. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual checks pass, go to step 6.If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1.
  6. With an ohmmeter, check for 16 ohms resistance at the P5 connector between pins P5-1 and P5-2, and also between pins P5-1 and P5-3. Also measure the resistance at the P10 connector between pins P10-1 and P10-7. If the resistance is correct, go to step 11. If the P5 connector resistance is much higher than 16 ohms, or the P10 connector resistance is out of range, go to step 7.
  7. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the drive motor area. Remove the motor bolt, then the motor cover to access the motor connections. S
  8. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and rotor position sensor board. If visual check passes, go to step 9. If visual check fails, reconnect the electrical connections, reassemble stator and motor cover and repeat step 1.
  9. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P10 machine/motor control connector and the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) connector If there is continuity, go to step 11. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.
  10. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P5 machine/motor control connector and the drive motor connector. If there is continuity, replace the drive motor. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.
  11. The drive motor and lower harness are good. Replace the motor RPS board and perform the Diagnostics test in step 1 to verify repair.
  12. If the Diagnostics motor test in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Motor Diagnostics in step 1 to verify repai
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