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Posted on Dec 31, 2012
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Image 10.2qi motor won't turn on. control board is fine and power is on.

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ernesto cuadra

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  • Image Master 12,223 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2012
ernesto cuadra
Image Master
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Joined: Sep 03, 2011
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1) Please test the main motor, see my personal TIPS for motor help.
2) test the output board for input voltage motor, if there are NOT the board is faulty.
see the diagram and block diagram
You can RUN the software calibration for diagnostic,troubleshooting, and fix it.
Happy NEW YEAR, God bless you
image 10.2qi motor won't turn on.  control boa - 12_31_2012_6_37_46_pm.jpg12_31_2012_6_38_01_pm.gif

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Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.
Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.
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Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

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I have a Bosch Nexxt Dryer 800 series when you try to turn it on, it just makes a click sound, but won't turn on. Any ideas about what's wrong. Thanks Marge

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Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.
Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

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Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.
Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.
Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

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I have an amana dryer,,,it says drying but it won't start,,no sound or nothing....I tried the fuse wires at the bottom direct and still nothing...so I don't think its the fuse...thanks

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Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.

Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.
9_29_2012_1_07_19_pm.gif
Sep 28, 2012 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

My MW511 won't start

Check the input power is coming or not. Check fuse inside control board & wiring too. If everything ok then it's problem of control board
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