For the last few weeks, our washer has been make an awful noise when spinning. Today, after downloading the Service manual online, I took the washer apart only to find out that the spider holding the inner tub is broken. All 3 arms !!! Because of that, it rubbed on the front upper drum and tore it apart and I now have many holes all around the front door gasket. From what I can see, I will need to order a new spider, a new front upper tub, the upper tub gasket. I rad somewhere during my research that the upper tub has been redesigned. Is this true ? If so, I will need to also order the back upper tub. Can someone tell me if the bearings and bearing gasket are included with the back half of the tub ? Your help is greatly appreciated.
If it is old enough that all three spider arms broke, then based upon the $200-300 cost of parts, I would go for new.
Seems like you need beaucoup parts and with what they charge for parts you just might be better off getting a new machine.
If you go to the attached link you can find out the part numbers and prices of the parts you want - if you ask them your question they will have the answer for you right there. http://www.appliancepartspros.com
SOURCE: suspect drum bearings
LG Direct Drive bearing replacement
The following guide is written to help you assess if
replacing the bearings is a job you can undertake and complete. This is
not written to be specific to any particular direct drive model but it
will help in all cases.
Must do's
Before commencing work on an electrical appliance:
1) Unplug the appliance from the wall socket, ensure the appliance on/off switch is in the off position.
2) Turn off the inlet water at the isolation valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
3) Clear a space and plan where you are going to put items you remove from the appliance.
4) Have pen and paper handy for making notes, a digital
camera is ideal for taking a picture of wiring connections for future
reference (**PHOTO**)
Strip down
1) Remove the worktop by undoing 2 screws at the rear, slide backwards and lift off.
2) FROM THE BACK.....Remove the back panel (4 screws)
giving access to the rear of the tub unit. Disconnect the wiring to the
motor, thermostat and heater, disconnect earth wires, (**PHOTO**). The
drum pulley, which is the ROTOR of the direct drive system has a single
bolt to undo. Slacken this bolt a turn or two, DO not remove
completely. Gently tap the bolt with a soft faced hammer or drift, this
will assist in the removal of the Rotor. Remove the bolt and remove the
rotor, careful as it has a series of magnets around its inner
circumference. The stator of the direct drive system is now in front of
you, there are 6 bolts holding it in place. Remove these and very
carefully remove the stator without damaging it, its very expensive,
look after it. Depending on your model there could be a spacer between
the stator and the tub unit, if so remove this also.
3) FROM THE FRONT.....Open the filter door (left side
of kick plate) if there is a small drain hose, remove stopper and drain
off any water in there. There is 1 screw to remove which is at the side
of the filter, then slide the kick plate sideways should release the
plinth from the cabinet. Open the door, the seal clamp band that
secures the door gasket to the cabinet should be removed. If the door
seal has a further hose attached, remove it.
4) Read all of this paragraph, there are 2 versions.....Remove
3 screws holding the lower edge of the front panel to the cabinet.
Remove the soap drawer, remove 2 screws in the control panel that
secure the soap box, depending on model there could be a third in the
lower right hand corner, if there is, remove it. If there isn't read on
further.. Carefully slide the front panel downwards about 20mm and it
will disengage from the cabinet, carefully look behind it and
disconnect the door lock wiring to allow complete removal. If there was
not a third screw (lower right hand corner of the control panel) then
the control panel will have to be removed. From the top remove the clip
retaining the hose that goes into the top of the tub unit, remove the
clip holding the large hose on the left, slide the soap box backwards
slightly and hang over the back of the cabinet, all the hoses still
connected. To remove the control panel look under the top frame and
release the two lugs whilst easing the panel away from the cabinet.
disconnect the wiring and remove away completely.
5) From the bottom remove the sump hose from the tub,
the screw that secures the pressure bottle to the tub. Remove the
suspension pins from the top position of the legs and push the legs
clear of the tub unit. The tub unit will now be hanging from the top
springs. Using strong wire or rope, loop the hook of the spring, lift
clear of the cabinet and lower the tub unit to the floor. Repeat this
on the other spring which then allows the tub unit to be lifted through
the front of the cabinet.
6) Place the tub unit door seal up, remove the screws
that secure tub front 1/2 to the rear 1/2. This allows the inner drum
to be removed, if its tight use soft faced hammer, DO NOT damage the
drum shaft.
Inspect the drum shaft collar, the collar is located
at the base of the shaft and is the surface that the oil seal mates to.
Look for indents or circular ruts where the previous seal has worn the
collar away
if damaged you will need a new spider unit. Do not
clean up using abrasive cloth, try the green pan scrubber from the
kitchen instead. If damaged and you don't replace it the bearing
replacement will fail prematurely as the oil seal fails to keep the
wash water away.
There are several different kits, comprising of 2
bearings and 1 oil seal. To obtain the correct kit you will need the
model number of your appliance, eg WM1480FHD or WM1485FHD or WM16225FD
all use bearing kit 1 available here other kits are available for other models including belt drives and washer dryers
The bearings can now be removed, the seats cleaned and
made ready for the new bearings and water seal. A light cover of grease
can be smeared on the inner edge of the seal.
7) There is a tub seal which fits in the recess between
the front and rear 1/2's of the tub unit, it is adviseable to renew
that seal before rebuild is commenced.
8) Rebuild is a reversal of the above, at every step
double check electrical and hose connections and before you refit the
cabinet front.
Hope you find this guide useful, some paragraphs can be applied to the belt drives also.
SOURCE: bad bearings on front loading lg washer 1832cw
Sorry, but you are not so lucky. LG should not even offer those parts, as it takes special hydraulic presses to install some of that. For anyone but the manufacturer them self you must replace the back half of the outer drum (I believe it is a 3045ER0008C in your case) which contains the installed seal and bearing, plus I'd recommend replacing the spider asm 4434ER0002A, as the shaft may be a bit worn where it contacted the seal and bearing, and you don't really want to go through all that work (at least 2 hours) only to have to do it again. A FixYa rating would be appreciated. Thanks.
SOURCE: LG wm -1832c front loader making noise
when you take the panels off you will see that the barrel is suspended by springs on top and fake struts on the bottom. be careful when removing the panels. if the barrel is leaning forward it's the front struts, if it's tilting upward it's the rear. and be careful how much you load in a front loader
SOURCE: VERY LOUD GRINDING NOISE LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer
Get a new washer. Perhaps another brand.
The fix for me was to get a new washer. Had same issue with loud spin cycle. Tried researching while wife was continuing use of washer. Then the LE message appeared.
Took back apart and found that water had leaked and caused a boat load of damage. Bearings shot, seal leaks, drum leaks, Stator damaged. Same issue as 'jammy64' stated.
Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
Electrolux model. 
SOURCE: I have an lg wm2032hw
If can be the tub is rubbing against the suspension springs to produce the rubbing noise.
Now as you have confiremd that the noise is from a rubbing and that the bearings , impellers were checked, the correct fault can be found only with assistance. You might need a volunteer to turn the tub manually as you check. Now disconnect the motor and check, if noise still remains bring it to the point of noise and reverse. Does the sound return,
Looking behind the drum you can find some stray wire or detached spring of the suspension touching but I would like you to use a good power light to probe listening to the noise to arrive at the fault.
Tip: If you can have a flexible tube use it to hear the noise as a probe with one end to the ear and the other as the probe.
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