Oil leak front engine timing chan

I'm sorry, but I can't provide visual images or diagrams. However, I can describe the general order of gaskets in a 1999 Dodge Durango engine from the top going down:

1. Valve Cover Gaskets: These gaskets are located on top of the cylinder heads and seal the valve covers. They help prevent oil leaks from the top of the engine.
2. Intake Manifold Gasket: The intake manifold gasket seals the connection between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads. It helps maintain proper air-fuel mixture and prevents vacuum leaks.
3. Throttle Body Gasket: If equipped, the throttle body gasket seals the connection between the throttle body and the intake manifold. It ensures proper airflow into the engine.
4. Exhaust Manifold Gaskets: These gaskets are located between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder heads. They seal the exhaust gases and prevent leaks.
5. Head Gaskets: The head gaskets are situated between the cylinder heads and the engine block. They seal the combustion chambers and coolant passages.
6. Oil Pan Gasket: The oil pan gasket is located at the bottom of the engine and seals the oil pan to the engine block. It prevents oil leaks from the oil pan.
7. Front and Rear Main Seals: These seals are located at the front and rear of the engine crankshaft. They prevent oil leaks where the crankshaft exits the engine block.
8. Timing Cover Gasket: If equipped, the timing cover gasket seals the timing chain or belt cover to the engine block. It helps protect the timing components and prevents oil leaks.

Oil leakage in the timing compartment of an engine can be caused by a variety of factors. Some common causes include:

1. Worn or damaged valve cover gasket: The valve cover gasket is responsible for preventing oil from leaking out of the timing compartment. If this gasket becomes worn or damaged, oil can leak out of the compartment.
2. Worn or damaged timing chain cover gasket: The timing chain cover gasket is responsible for preventing oil from leaking out of the timing compartment. If this gasket becomes worn or damaged, oil can leak out of the compartment.
3. Worn or damaged oil pan gasket: The oil pan gasket is responsible for preventing oil from leaking out of the timing compartment. If this gasket becomes worn or damaged, oil can leak out of the compartment.
4. Worn or damaged crankshaft seal: The crankshaft seal is responsible for preventing oil from leaking out of the timing compartment. If this seal becomes worn or damaged, oil can leak out of the compartment.
5. Worn or damaged camshaft seal: The camshaft seal is responsible for preventing oil from leaking out of the timing compartment. If this seal becomes worn or damaged, oil can leak out of the compartment.
6. Worn or damaged Timing chain tensioner: Timing chain tensioner is responsible for maintaining proper tension on the timing chain. If this tensioner becomes worn or damaged, oil can leak out of the compartment.
7. Worn or damaged Timing Chain: Timing chain is responsible for maintaining proper timing of the engine. If the timing chain becomes worn or damaged, it can cause oil leakage in the timing compartment.
8. Low oil level: If the oil level in the engine is low, it can cause oil to leak out of the timing compartment.

It's important to address oil leaks as soon as possible, as they can lead to serious engine damage if left unchecked. To determine the exact cause of oil leakage, it's best to consult with a mechanic or take the car to the service center.

Instructions

1. Remove Your Timing Chain
   • 1 Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing chain. Replacement for a Nissan Altima is 60,000 miles.
     
   • 2 Locate the timing chain. Replace it if the automatic chain adjuster (also known as the tensioner) is damaged or worn.
     
   • 3 Drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable. Undo the spark plug wires and set the No. 1 piston at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke.
     
   • 4 Disconnect the engine undercover, vacuum and fuel hoses, harness and connectors, drive belts, power steering reservoir, alternator and bracket, upper radiator hose, air duct, front exhaust tube, intake manifold collector supports, collector and exhaust manifold and the distributor.
     
   • 5 Prop up the oil pan and take out the front engine mounting, the valve cover, camshaft sprockets, cam bearing caps, camshafts, cylinder head bolts (reverse the installation order), cam sprocket cover, upper chain tensioner, chain guides and chain, idler sprocket bolt, cylinder head, intake manifold and cylinder head gasket and the steel oil pan.
     
   • 6 Place a steel cutter between the steel and aluminum oil pans. Slip the cutter around the oil pan's edge. Disengage the steel oil pan, baffle plate, oil strainer and the front tube.
     
   • 7 Secure the car on jack stands and place a seal cutter in between the oil pan and cylinder block. Slip the cutter around the oil pan's edge.
     
   Install Your Timing Chain
   • 8 Reconnect the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump drive spacer, idler sprocket and lower timing chain. Position the lower timing chain on the sprockets and line up the mating marks.
     
   • 9 Rub on an unbroken bead of liquid gasket and put in a new front cover and oil seal. Secure the bolt at 105 to 112 foot pounds (142 to 152 Nm).
     
   • 10 Eliminate any old material from the pan and cylinder block mounting surfaces. Rub on a 3.5 to 4.5mm bead of liquid gasket over the oil pan and cylinder block.
     
   • 11 Attach the upper timing chain to the idler sprockets and secure the cylinder head bolts.
     
   • 12 Refill the cooling system and add clean oil in the engine.
     
   • 13 Hook up the negative battery cable and any other disconnected parts or items. Start the engine and look for leaks.
     

Tips & Warnings

• Procedures for replacing timing chains in Nissan Altimas vary slightly depending on engine size.
  
• Make sure the new timing chain matches the chain you are removing.
  

Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing chain. Replacement for a Nissan Maxima is 60,000 miles.2 Locate the timing chain. Replace it if the automatic chain adjuster (also known as the tensioner) is damaged or worn.3 Release the pressure in the fuel system, drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable. 4 Undo the upper radiator hose, engine drive belts, power steering pulley and pump with bracket, air duct, passenger front wheel and engine side and undercovers, front exhaust pipe, cylinder head front mounting bracket and head cover, rocker cover, distributor and distributor cap and spark plugs.5 Take off the intake manifold support and move the No. 1 piston at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke.6 Disconnect the cylinder head front cover, water pump pulley, thermostat housing, upper and lower tensioner and slack side timing chain guide, idler sprocket bolt, camshaft sprocket bolts, sprockets, mounting caps and camshafts. 7 Disengage the cylinder head with the manifolds, idler sprocket shaft, upper timing chain, center crossmember, oil pan and strainer assembly, crankshaft pulley, engine front mount and bracket and the front timing cover. Remove the oil seal and unfasten the timing chain cover, idler and crankshaft sprockets and the oil pump drive spacer. 8 Unfasten the timing chain guide. install Your Timing Chain 1 Grease the oil seal lip with engine oil and place it in the front cover. Verify that the No. 1 piston is at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2 Reconnect the crankshaft sprocket (marks should point toward the engine's front), oil pump drive spacer and timing chain guide and the lower timing chain. Line up all mating marks.3 Hook up the crankshaft sprocket and pulley, lower timing chain, front cover assembly, engine mount and front mounting bracket, oil strainer and pan assembly and center crossmember.4 Reattach the upper timing chain, idler sprocket (to the back side), cylinder head assembly, idler sprocket bolt and exhaust and intake camshafts. Place the intake camshaft knock pin at 9 o'clock and the exhaust pin at noon. Connect the camshaft bearing caps and distributor brackets and secure all mounting bolts.5 Eliminate any old material from the pan and cylinder block mounting surfaces. Rub on a 3.5 to 4.5mm bead of liquid gasket over the oil pan and cylinder block.6 Attach the upper timing chain to the idler sprockets and secure the cylinder head bolts.7 Refill the cooling system. Hook up the negative battery cable and any other disconnected items. Start the engine and look for leaks.

most common thing we used to see on the older 22R engines was the timing chain guides would brake and allow the timing chain to rub on the inside of the timing cover and this would cause a hole to be warn into a coolant passage allowing coolant to leak into the oil pan and then this would cause rod and main bearing failure, also if the chain jumps or brakes all the valves will be bent.

yes, I just changed one of these recently. Had to take both front and bottom off engine. Very difficult repair, as there are no good jack points for the engine when you have all the motor mounts off.
Here is procedure I would recommend.
Remove starter and engine to transmission brackets front and back.
Remove transmission starter gear cover.
drain oil and remove oil pan.
put a block under the crankshaft and jack to release weight on motor mount.
remove front motor mount (by serpentine belt)
remove belt.
remove compressor and bracket.
remove crank pulley and vib damper.
remove timing cover. mark timing belt with direction of travel
loosen tensioner gear.
remove timing belt.
remove crankshaft timing gear and key.
remove seal and oil pump housing.
clean gasket surfaces.
replace seal and reverse procedure.

If you have questions, let me know.

Check the vehicle manual for recommended mileage for replacing the timing chain.Locate the timing chain,you will need to replace it if the automatic chain adjuster "also known as the tensioner " is damage or worn.Drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable.Undo the spark plug wires and set the No.1 piston at Top Dead Center ( TDC ) of the compression stroke. Disconnect the engine undercover,vacuum and fuel hoses,harness and connectors,drive belts, power steering reservoir,alternator and bracelet,upper radiator hose and,air doct,front exhaust tube,intake manifold collector supports,collector and exhaust manifold and distributor.Prop up the oil can and take out the front engine mounting,the valve cover and camshaft sprockets,cam bearing caps and camshafts,cylinder head bolts, cam sprocket cover,upper chain tensioner,chain guide and the chain,idler sprocket bolt,cylinder head,intake manifold and cylinder head gasket and the steel oil pan. Place a steel cutter between the steel and aluminum oil pans.Slip the cutter around the the edge of the oil pan and disengage the steel oil pan,baffle plate,oil strainer and front tube. Secure the vehicle on jack stands and place a seal cutter between the oil pan and the cylinder block,slip the cutter around the edge of the oil pan.

Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover and Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.5L and 4.0L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Accessory drive belt
   • Cooling fan and shroud
   • Crankshaft damper
   • Front crankshaft seal
   • Accessory brackets
   • Front cover
   • Oil slinger
3. Rotate the crankshaft so that the timing marks are aligned. Fig. 1: Timing chain alignment marks — 2.5L and 4.0L engines
   
   
4. Remove the timing chain and sprockets. To install:
   
5. For 2.5L engines, turn the timing chain tensioner lever to the unlock (down) position. Pull the tensioner block toward the tensioner lever to compress the spring. Hold the block and turn the tensioner lever to the lock (up) position. Fig. 2: Timing chain tensioner — 2.5L engines
   
   
6. Install the timing chain and sprockets with the timing marks aligned. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) for 2.5L engines or to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for 4.0L engines.
7. For 2.5L engines, release the timing chain tensioner.
8. Install or connect the following:
   • Oil slinger
   • New front crankshaft seal to the front cover
   • Front cover, using a new gasket
   • Timing Case Cover Alignment and Seal Installation Tool 6139 in the crankshaft opening to center the front cover Fig. 3: Timing Case Cover Alignment and Seal Installation Tool 6139 — 2.5L and 4.0L engines
     
   
   
9. Tighten the front cover bolts as follows:
   1. Step 1: Cover-to-block 1⁄4 inch bolts to 60 inch lbs. (7 Nm)
   2. Step 2: Cover-to-block 5⁄16 inch bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)
   3. Step 3: Oil pan-to-cover 1⁄4 inch bolts to 85 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm)
   4. Step 4: Oil pan-to-cover 5⁄16 inch bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
10. Install or connect the following:
    • Accessory brackets
    • Crankshaft damper. Tighten the bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
    • Cooling fan and shroud
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Negative battery cable
11. Start the engine and check for leaks.

CHECK FOR LEAKING WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE OR GASKET.ALSO CHECK WATER PUMP HOSE FOR LEAKS.IF ALL LOOKS GOOD.YOU COULD HAVE PINHOLE LEAKS IN RADIATOR CORE LEAKING ON FRONT OF ENGINE OR INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET LEAKING COOLANT.

Sounds to me someone wants to make a couple of bucks. Does the truck still run? The timming chain is going to have play in it, even with only a few miles on it THATS JUST THE NATURE OF THE BEAST, the chanses of the timming chain going out is remote, I've owned a few 4.3's with well over 100.000 mi. and never had to chg. a timming chain, not to say it can't happend just saying its very remote.