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Anonymous Posted on Dec 03, 2012

John deere 2651 hydraulic pump low pressure - John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520 Tractor Float

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2009

SOURCE: system creeps down even when tractor is operating.

There are 2 potential problems -
1. Leaking spool on the control valve - rebuild the vale.

2. Cylinder blow-by. Disassemble piston and replace the seals.

To test if its the cylinder - retract the cylinders all the way... remove the hoses on the blind end (non rod end) of each cylinder, and again pull the valve to the retract position.

If fluid continues to pour out of the cylinder - the piston seal is damaged, and the affected cylinder must be repaired.

To test if the valve spool is faulty - disconnect the a and b ports just after the valve. Turn on the system and check for seepage from the disconnected lines (without moving the lever).

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

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Anonymous

  • 110 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 02, 2009

SOURCE: I just purchased a 2440 john deere tractor it was

would say that your variable displacement pump has rust or other on/inside, it.

Are you using hydralic fluid (not eng oil) in her?
Can you let it run on blocks for a bit - drain and re-fill transmission?

nova2nv

Bill Linda Rivard

  • 197 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 15, 2009

SOURCE: our john deere sabre 17.542 hs ride on mower will

If traction drive belt is turning you should check the input drive shaft on top of trans to see if it is turning as well,Traction drive belt is suspect but could be a stripped out input shaft pulley.Make sure the machine tow lever is not pulled out,rear of machine by tow hitch.Also pull rubber caps off of both axle ends to see if one the axles is turning free inside of rim,if so remove wheel and replace axle key.

wfservices

Wayne Fellows

  • 262 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 07, 2010

SOURCE: i need to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder on a john

  1. This cylinder is not to hard to disassemble.
  2. Place upright in vise or suitable bracing.
  3. Using a block or dowel of wood(maybe rubber mallet also), depress the top cap of the cylinder to relieve tension on the ring.
  4. Use a small edged screw driver or pick and spin "retainer" in until the bent end comes to the opening.
  5. Lift up and rotate the ring more to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
  6. Once the retainer is started you can tap it with the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the groove.
  7. If you havent done so by now the oil should be drained.
  8. with the cylinder firm in vise(but not too firm to "distort the integrity of the cylinder.) Place the cylinder Sideways so you can pull out piston and rod assembly.*** Put hose or suitable drain on holes of cylinder***. With the motion of the piston the residual oil will tend to spray out.
  9. Pull on the piston and position it to bottom out on the top gland(cap) ie:full extension
  10. Place support under the rod to avoid damage. The gland is a tight tolerant fit with use of O-rings and backup rings. Too much offset can lead to damaging gland assembly, and jamming in the cylinder. You may be able to just hold with hand also depends on size, bore, stroke, pressure rating. Use due dilligence.
  11. Now that its out you have the piston assembly with gland in hand..**if only the rod comes out there are more steps to take, and you need a new rod but sometimes its more cost effective to buy a new cylinder. If there is a farm supplier or hydraulic dealer near they can certifiably /replace repair the cylinder for you. Hydraulic pressure is kind of like lightening. If it strikes you under pressure it can kill you.*** Using the dead blow or rubber mallet try to pop the gland out by using the piston/rod assembly as the puller. You may not have to remove the top clevice or other end of the cylinder, so maybe you could tap on that.
  12. The piston can be removed from the rod depending again on make. Usually a socket head cap screw or king nut holding it in place to the rod.
  13. When the piston is removed you should be able to slide gland off also.
  14. You'll need that pick and or the screwdriver to pick out the seals carefully. Let me know if you require more...WF Services

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 17, 2011

SOURCE: I have a 1982 John Deere 310A backhoe. The

try changing out the hydro filters

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John Deere Backhoe loader Mod. 210C. Can I replace EATON- Vickers Van Pump instead to Double stage Gear pump SAUER or VICKERS?

Replacing hydraulic components in heavy equipment like the John Deere Backhoe Loader Model 210C requires careful consideration, as it can impact the machine's performance, safety, and warranty. Here are some important factors to keep in mind when considering a pump replacement:
1. **Compatibility:** Hydraulic pumps are designed for specific systems and applications. The replacement pump must have compatible specifications, flow rates, pressures, and connections to work effectively within your machine's hydraulic system.
2. **System Design:** The hydraulic system of your backhoe loader is designed with specific components that work together. Replacing a pump can potentially disrupt the balance and efficiency of the system.
3. **Flow and Pressure Requirements:** Ensure that the replacement pump can provide the required flow and pressure needed by both the main and steering hydraulic systems. Mismatched flow rates and pressures can lead to performance issues and damage.
4. **Relief Valve and Safety:** Hydraulic systems include relief valves to prevent overpressure. If you're considering a pump replacement, you must ensure that the relief valve settings are appropriate for the new pump's specifications.
5. **Mounting and Connections:** The new pump should have compatible mounting and connection points with your backhoe loader's existing hydraulic system. Modifications might be needed to ensure a proper fit.
6. **Manufacturer Recommendations:** Consult the manufacturer's documentation, technical manuals, and guidelines for pump replacements. They may provide insights into compatible replacements and installation procedures.
7. **Professional Assistance:** Given the complexity of hydraulic systems and the potential impact of pump replacements, it's advisable to consult with a qualified hydraulic engineer or technician. They can assess your specific situation, recommend suitable replacement options, and ensure proper installation.
8. **Warranty and Support:** Keep in mind that modifications or replacements not recommended by the manufacturer could void warranties and complicate maintenance and support in the future.
9. **Testing and Calibration:** After any pump replacement, thorough testing and calibration are essential to ensure the hydraulic system operates safely and efficiently.
Remember that modifying heavy equipment like a backhoe loader requires expertise and knowledge in hydraulic systems. Any modifications should be carried out by professionals who are experienced in working with such equipment. It's recommended to involve the manufacturer or authorized service providers to ensure that any modifications are done correctly and safely.
1helpful
1answer

John Deere tractors no hydraulic operation

Hi, Check fluid level, look for leaks, Listen for new or odd noises.
Hydraulics are usually pretty low maintenance, even with leaks they will continue to run for years. The issue with hydraulics is that they run at very high pressures and great care needs to be taken as a pinhole in a pipe can cause a jet of hydraulic oil able to pierce skin and potentially kill you.
That said, Is the pump working? Are any of the rams or PTOs moving at all ? If the answer is no , and the Hydraulic oil is topped up ( make sure you use the correct oil) and the oil isn't hosing out underneath, Then the pump or the pump drive is the likely problem.
If some things work and not others, look for a faulty valve in the control assembly.
Hope this helps.
1helpful
2answers

I have a John Deere 5103 the hydraulics are jerky started out a little now its bad loader steering etc. Is it the pump or filters

indicates inconsistent pressure
low fluid level in reservoir, blocked filters or faulty valve system can cause the problem
0helpful
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Low hydraulic pressure to raise implements 8650 john deere

Could be the charge lube in the rear differential. It supplies oil to main Hydraulic pump up front on engine. The charge pump drive can strip and not turn pump. To remove pump drive remove third link plate on rear frame, remove plug behind plate, pull out hex shaft, about 5 foot long and inspect.
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Hydraulics 3130 john deere

hydraulic pump not working
filter to the pump blocked
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How do I increase the hydraulic power in my 1985 john deere 1050. Speed of hydraulics is fine. Just changed oil and filter with no difference

Power in a hydraulic system is perceived as Pressure ! there for more power is more pressure , id use a pressure gauge plugged into a remote port , to test your pump . an 85 id bet sure has some wear to pump , pressure for that id suppose should be right about 1200 to 1500 psi at 1050 rpm , if its less than that you could have pump rebuilt or replaced

do ck all the simple things 1st , filter, belts, hoses ,leaks
1helpful
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F525. Updated mower switch by John Deere is not engaging mower

The John Deere F525, a front cutting machine, has 3 fuses.
20 Amp
15 Amp
10 Amp

Check the 15 amp fuse. I believe this supports the PTO clutch. If you replace the fuse and it blows again, check the electric clutch. You will likely find burnt or melted wires. The bearings do go out on these clutches causing them to run hot and eventually burn up.

PTO Clutch will not engage: There is a very fine one page discussion on evaluating electric clutches at this site:

http://www.messicks.com/Articles/FixingElectricClutch.aspx

My JD tech manual, which covers the entire LA 100 series, agrees with the electrical specifications. It states that the Electric PTO Clutch should show the following:

Resistance 3.7 ohms
Current Draw 3.25 amps
It does not give the air gap.

It does include a note to check the PTO Clutch Key for damage or if missing. So there is a drive key between the PTO Clutch and the shaft. Additionally, it recommends checking the tightness of the cap screw. That's the screw or bolt that holds the clutch on the shaft.
Cap Screw torque 55 lb-ft (75 N.m).

If the fuse blows, I recommend you check the resistance of the clutch. If the clutch is shorting to ground it will show zero resistance when you ohms the connector wire to a ground position. In which case, you will have to replace the clutch.

Fixing Electric Clutches

Other possibilities.
On the F525 there is a cut-off switch in the hydraulic system. It is a low pressure cut off. If you were running the mower and deck and then it suddenly stopped, it may be low pressure in the hydraulics. It will not automatically reset as you are using the same volume for the drive pumps. Once the oil gets low enough it cuts out the deck drive 1st, then the drive pumps.
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I have a John deere 2651. I tested the main pump but continue to have the same problem. When the lift is raised I struggle to turn the steering. Al filters was also chnaged. Where does this pressure relief...

is the hydraulic fluid level correct ??? sounds like you're running out of hydraulic fluid. because if your trying to turn as your raising the lift then i could see a problem but if it's lifted and you're having an issue then fluid comes to mind first
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710 d has problem in hydrolics ax like main pump is destroking to soon no power in all hydrolics. did presure test found low presure in charge circuit on test port on main pump .have checked or replaced...

hydraulic pump may be going out, you have to have a good working pump for your hydraulics to work right, there are also some check valves that could be leaking, this will also give you a low pressure reading, low pressure will also effect pto engagement
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