The little red plastic switch just fell off the other day. One of the tiny plastic pivot points had broken off. Other than that the heater is fine, not heavily used. Who fixes these?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Behind the plastic power button is a tiny metal switch. If just the button is broken, use a tiny plastic tool to push the switch. But if the switch is also broken, I recommend returning the tablet for a refund or replacement if it is still covered by the factory warranty.
Fixing a broken power switch is delicate work and may cost more than the value of the tablet.
Make sure that all the pivot points are greased or oiled sufficiently and not rusted. Also make sure that the pivot points are not to tight and binding. If so loosen a little they should have cup washers on them or nuts with plastic inside them so they will hold the joint but not fall off. Good Luck...
the piece of plastic that fell off may be from brake light switch. it is located in back of brake pedal arm, on the top. the switch may just need a little adjustment or replaced. have a good day !!
I was able to fix mine - it was a failure of the pivot points, I drilled out where they'd been, put the switch back together, and inserted a brad (tiny nail) for a new pivot. Works great!
Remove one phillips head screw that is located approximately 4 inches above the switch you are about to replace. The complete face of the heater can now be removed, then compress the four tabs on the back side of the switch to remove the switch through the cover.
At the bottom, white is on the right; red is on the left and the black is between them at the bottom. At the top the double black wire is on the right and the other, single black wire goes on the left. Mine needed a little lifting of the metal strip that needs to make contact at the other point for the power to flow through. Turning the numbered dial towards 6 or 1, respectively, should raise or lower the contact point to or away from its opposite contact point, to which I resumed this proper functioning after manipulating the metal strip a bit.
The switch is a micro switch that is depressed(and not sad :)) by a plastic tag moulded on the battery cover. Once the cover is moved into position and closed, the tag presses on the micro switch closing the switch and thus removing the error message. As with any switch, a switch is simply open or closed, Open = high resistance or O/L, while closed = 0 ohms reistance. You can use a small wire to overcome the switch by soldering the wire to both tags of the switch so it is permenantly 0 ohms. This will send a message to the microprocessor that cover is closed and camera ready for use. Hope this helps.
Twitcha
I have the same model. Though I haven't replaced the needle yet, I was able to remove the broken one. You'll see that the arm has a red plastic attachment. It houses the needle in a very thin strip of something like electrician's tape. There is a very small separation on the front (end of the arm facing you) of the tone arm, where the arm (black plastic) and needle "cartridge" (red plastic) come together. I used a metal nail file and pried them apart very gently. At this point the red plastic "cartridge" with the broken needle was hanging but still connected on either side. The red plastic "cartridge" is made with tiny plastic 'bumps' that pop into indentations built into the black plastic of the arm. Again, using my metal nail file, I simply held the arm and pried the red plastic "cartridge" away from one side. It popped off the other immediately and fell away from the arm. Voila!
×