The icemaker turns to push ice out. the coil at the bottom of the ice make is not catching and turning to move ice out. We have lots of ice, it just won't come out.

I can think of two possible problems. The ice has frozen together and will not allow the ice screw to push the ice out the dispenser. Or the motor for the ice screw is broken.
1. Shut off icemaker with lever at icemaker
2. Remove ice container (either throw away ice or save in another container).
3. Put back empty ice container.
4. Leave ice maker off for about an hour.
5. After an hour , check if motor is working by trying to dispense ice. You should not expect any ice but you should hear the motor /auger moving.
A) If you do not hear any thing , you need to get your motor replaced.
B) If you hear the motor , mostlikely you had an ice dam which prevented the ice dispense from working..You can turn you icemaker on.

You didn't say -- was this freezer working correctly for some time before this problem?

It's not unusual for an ice buildup in the icemaker itself to divert water to places it's not supposed to be. The only fix for that is to turn of the freezer (you may have to turn of the refrigerator, too), and completely defrost the freezer. Leave the refrigerator door closed and it will stay reasonably cold. It may take a couple of hours to fully defrost - put some towels in the bottom, as it sounds like you'll have some ice buildup to deal with. You can speed that up a lot with a hair dryer. Just turn it on high, and direct it at the ice buildup, and then concentrate on the icemaker and the area around it.
If you can, inspect the icemaker area and make sure the fill tube is directed into the ice tray, and hasn't gotten bumped or moved so it's pouring water elsewhere.
Once the freezer is completely thawed out and all the water mopped up, start it up again and cross your fingers.

More thatn likely, being thats an older model, you are low on freom and the temperature isn't cold enough for the icemaker to keep constant production up. You maybe thinking the freezer is fine because stuff is frozen in there but that is why most people don't catch the problem until they lose all their food. The temperature for the icemaker to even come on is 10 degrees F. The sub zero freezer temperature should be around 0. Check your settings and make sure they are turned down but I would get a thermometer and put in the freezer and check to see what it says. If its above 5 degrees F check your condensor coils to make sure they are clean and also see it the condensor fan is running. If dirty, clean the coils and see if the temperature drops, if not call a service company.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Not sure what setup your ice maker has to let it know when the ice tray is full, but some ice makers have a bail that goes up with rising ice levels. When the ice bucket fills up, the ice maker shuts down.

Lifting the bail up all the way until it catches on a small ledge turns this type ice maker off. If ice is allowed to stack in the bucket too high, or is shoved back as someone scooped out ice, the bail may inadvertently have been pushed onto the ledge.

Bottom line; check whatever method your ice maker uses to turn off ice production when the bucket is full to see if it is in the OFF position.

Take a 4 inch piece of 14 gauge insulated wire and strip 1 inch of insulation off each end. Bend the wire into a U shape.Remove the plastic cover from the front of the icemaker. Insert the bare ends into the terminals marked T and H on the face of the icemaker. The wheel should move and dispense the ice into the bucket. If it does not move and drop the ice replace the icemaker.

if self defrosting model check frozen drain in freezer

Top 2 possiblities

1/ The motor that ejects the ice is shot.

or

2/ the heater element that melts the ice into pieces.

Here is where you can probably pinpoint problem.

Making Ice When everything is hooked up, the icemaker begins its cycle. The cycle is usually controlled by a simple electrical circuit and a series of switches. In the diagram below, you can see how the icemaker moves through its cycle.
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• At the beginning of the cycle, a timed switch in the circuit briefly sends current to a solenoid water valve. In most designs, the water valve is actually positioned behind the refrigerator, but it is connected to the central circuit via electrical wires. When the circuit sends current down these wires, the charge moves a solenoid (a type of electromagnet), which opens the valve.
  
• The valve is only open for about seven seconds; it lets in just enough water to fill the ice mold. The ice mold is a plastic well, with several connected cavities. Typically, these cavities have a curved, half-circle shape. Each of the cavity walls has a small notch in it so each ice cube will be attached to the cube next to it.
  
• Once the mold is filled, the machine waits for the water in the mold to freeze. The cooling unit in the refrigerator does the actual work of freezing the water, not the icemaker itself (see How Refrigerators Work for details). The icemaker has a built-in thermostat, which monitors the temperature level of the water in the molds. When the temperature dips to a particular level -- say, 9 degrees Fahrenheit (-13 degrees Celsius) -- the thermostat closes a switch in the electrical circuit (see How Home Thermostats Work for details on this operation).
  
• Closing this switch lets electrical current flow through a heating coil underneath the icemaker. As the coil heats up, it warms the bottom of the ice mold, loosening the ice cubes from the mold surface.

-->The icemaker has a heating coil underneath the ice mold.

• The electrical circuit then activates the icemaker's motor. The motor spins a gear, which rotates another gear attached to a long plastic shaft. The shaft has a series of ejector blades extending out from it. As the blades revolve, they scoop the ice cubes up and out of the mold, pushing them to the front of the icemaker. Since the cubes are connected to one another, they move as a single unit.

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• At the front of the icemaker, there are plastic notches in the housing that match up with the ejector blades. The blades pass through these notches, and the cubes are pushed out to a collection bin underneath the icemaker.
  
• The revolving shaft has a notched plastic cam at its base. Just before the cubes are pushed out of the icemaker, the cam catches hold of the shut-off arm, lifting it up. After the cubes are ejected, the arm falls down again. When the arm reaches its lowest resting position, it throws a switch in the circuit, which activates the water valve to begin another cycle. If the arm can't reach its lowest position, because there are stacked-up ice cubes in the way, the cycle is interrupted. This keeps the icemaker from filling your entire freezer with ice; it will only make more cubes when there is room in the collection bin.

This system is effective for making ice at home, but it doesn't produce enough ice for commercial purposes, such as restaurants and self-service hotel ice machines. In the next section, we'll look at a larger, more powerful icemaker design.

Hello dunc444444
Welcome,
You said, Bottom freezer works fine, but upper refrigerator has no cold air

Is your freezer so full that it is packed to the top especially in the rear?
Refrigerators and freezers share the air from the compressor and travel through vents in the rear of the freezer and fridge.
Sometimes it can effect the cooling in the fridge if the freezer articles block the vents!


The water overfilling in the ice maker is an ice maker problem only.
When we install an ice maker there is a short white plastic tube that we push through the rear
hole of the fridge which supply's the water to the maker, the outside water line attaches to this.
That tube we push through the fridge must go in till it stops. And empties in to a little sistran at the rear of the ice maker. Make sure it did not sip out or backwards a little when you may have moved
rolled the fridge out to clean under it!


Also you need periodically to remove the front grill down in front of the fridge and gently run a refrigerator brush under the coils to clean out the dust that may block air flow over the coils.(the coils are metal black tubes that run back and forth along the bottom of your fridge.
The vacuum will not reach in to that tight space. That's why they make a special brush for this chore.
Let me know how you do?
Huuum {
Bottom freezer works fine, but upper refrigerator has no cold a

Let me know.
Huuum
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