The LD light came one and the service called, but no good solutio

SOURCE: whirlpool duet sport front load washer

the panel below the door has 3 screws under the bottom lip of the panel. remove the screws to get the panel off youll see the pump right in front of you. you can unscrew the cap on the pump and remove it to clean out the punp. thats where 99% of clogges are on that washer

SOURCE: Cabrio Washer LD error code

same problem here

Sam Sebastian Farkas DaWolf

• 174 Answers
• Posted on Jun 02, 2009

SOURCE: F1 Error Code On Whirlpool Cabrio

Hiding within your washer should be a secret coded booklet that has all the error codes that don't appear in the user's manual.

F1 generally means the Central Electrical Control Unit (as in cars, etc) it is the onboard computer. It usually inicates a fatality.
If you do not have the skill & tools to test the guts of this computer, you're stuck replacing the CECU.

BUT if you have the skill & tools then there are three screws at the rear to expose the control panel, then unplug one unit; plug in the new one. Just to be on the safe side, color code all the plugs and replace.
The Unit is normally around $200 to replace, BUT aren't you still under warranty????

If so get Whirlpool to check it out and Replace it, lol.

cheers,

Bastian

SOURCE: WHIRLPOOL DUET SHAKING & VIBRATING

I don't know what education or real world learning 'a1_appliance' has but his explanation isn't logical. I have nothing to do with appliances other than use them and fix my own when possible. I do have a degree in Mechanical Engineering and have worked in factories with machines much larger and faster than a washing machine. My comments below are based on education, experience, observation and applied physics.

• What difference does the color of clothes matter?
• What margin of error in weight of different articles of clothes is acceptable?
• If one were to put in a load of all white Hanes t-shirts and then a load that weighed exactly the same but had a rainbow of colors with jeans, underwear, you name it, and you ran them on the same cycle, how would the machine know the difference? I would think the machine would operate the same for both loads.
• Everyone likes to talk about balancing. One thing almost all moving machinery, especially ones operating at high velocities, linear or angular, to operate efficiently and not cause damage, is they should at least be leveled. The reality is that leveling and balancing are two completely different concepts.
• You can level almost anything. Level (or plumb) means that with respect to earth/gravity, you have a surface that is exactly (within reason) horizontal (level) or vertical (plumb).
• If you remember from high school or your last visit to the doctor, a balance means the weights or "forces" are equal. I don't remember my doctor bringing out his bubble level to make sure I was balanced. Balancing is the act of having a force (weight) that is equal and opposite the other force.
• Consider these two very common examples.
• 1. You can (and should) level a refrigerator, but if you have ever tried to lift one, wherever the compressor is located that side/end is always the heaviest. Refrigerators don't really have many moving parts so vibration isn't an issue.
  
• 2. When I get my tires rotated, they balance them. They put lead weights on the rims to make sure they are the same weight. Some people don't want level cars. Balanced tires lessen the chances for uneven wear on the tires, alignment problems and other mechanical damage issues.
• Apply the previous examples to a front loading washer. It can be spot on level and on a solid base but that just means it won't look like it is leaning or tilted. Since balance is not related to level, why would anyone make us believe the machine is balanced because it has been leveled. Because the only solutions to balance these machines would be expensive and would require some of the biggest appliance companies to admit a major flaw in design. Look on most of these companies websites and see how many are now offering Top Loading HE washers.
• Why are the front loaders subject to so much vibration? Here is a way of "feeling" what I mean about balance (not level) as a the cause for the severe vibration. On your front loader, lift all four sides; one side will be heavier than the other (the back). The machine is not balanced. In comparison, older top load machines used to vibrate but in general that was because they were not leveled properly or the spinning tub had too much "play", but this was a sign of wear and tear and could be (usually) easy to fix. These machines lasted years and the real vibration issues gradually increased over ten as opposed to the first loads. If you lifted the four sides of these, one side may have been heavier but only by a little. They were bottom heavy and the clothes (weight) were supported by the motor drive and the ground. The force of the laundry was balanced by an equal force (earth) Front loaders are back heavy and the loads spin in front of the drive. This means (as noted in one of the answers above) talks about the load eventually accumulating at the bottom and staying there as the machine spins faster and faster. The weight of the load is now pulling the drum with increasing force in a continuous circle around the face of the washer. With no "equal and opposite force" to counter it, the machine has no way of being in "balance."
  
• I know some of you are saying the centripetal force in a top loader would cause vibration issues. It would if the drum was not given some ability to move laterally to compensate for this. And unlike front loaders, top load machines, when loaded normally, after the wash cycle, the clothes settle to bottom relatively evenly. This means that in a perfect situation with the weight of the load evenly distributed around the sides during the spin cycle, you would have equal, opposite forces around the entire drum.
• To make things worse, the front loaders were not tall enough so that encourage people to buy "pedestals" with a plastic drawer to raise it to a reasonable height. Now an unbalanced machine rests on a four sided stand with no significant weight. We designed a bad machine so lets make it worse by accentuating the problem.
• As for a solution for myself, I'm not going to fight a losing battle and fight with Whirlpool. I am going to try something that I am hoping will alleviate the problem of the vibration (and noise). Just as ships have ballast in the hulls to keep them from toppling over, I am going to try filling my pedestal with something very heavy. Lead would be great but I have kids so I may try pieces of rebar or some other dense material that will counter the forces pulling the machine upwards.

SOURCE: Whirlpool CABRIO WTW6400SW2 Washer shows F1 code

Keypad/User Interface Failure

F then 2 flashes when in:
Diagnostics Test mode if a stuck key is detected.
Standby mode if there is a user interface mismatch.
DISPLAY (Saved Code) EXPLANATION AND RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE

Console and Indicators
This test is performed when any of the following situations occurs during the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test:


None of the indicators light up No beep sound is heard Some buttons do not light indicators None of the indicators light up:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the P11 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control.
2. Visually check that the user interface assembly is properly inserted in the console assembly
3. If both visual checks pass, replace the user interface assembly.
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
6. If indicators still do not light, the machine/ motor control has failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Plug in washer or reconnect power. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.

No beep sound is heard:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, replace the user interface assembly.
2. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
3. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
4. If replacing the user interface assembly failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.


Some buttons do not light indicators:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the console electronics and housing assembly is properly inserted
into the front console. If visual check passes, replace the user interface assembly.
2. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
3. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.


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