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Does my Cable on my Bear Outbreak Cable have to be replaced?
I have a Bear Outbreak. Right by the Cam the string or cable splits into a Y shape and attaches to 2 plugs that look ...,to me like simply something that helps hold it on... anyway If one of the sides of the Y is loose, is that a problem? Will it break? Does my cable need to be replaced?
Its not frayed or anything, just one side of the Y split is loose.
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Disconnect the two halves of the shaft. It should be pretty easy. Inspect the drive cable to make sure it hasnt snapped. Also make sure the cable is inserted into the female half. Its a square shaped cable that spins and drives the string trimmer head.
It will be the cable for the screen i have had to do a few of these, the cable snaps on the hinge, you will need to replace this cable they dont cost to much. take the screws out of the back of the laptop and remove the key pad then the top cover, you will then see the cable /s unplug them and on the back unplug the wifi wires and remember what way they go, push them through the hole so they are on the top. undo the screws for the hinges and carefully remove the screen from the base. now you will need to take the rubbers off the . screen lid and undo the screws and split the cover seam, when it come apart you will see where the wire is and replace it, you will find a few of the wires on the cable have split. there are two types of cables one type is for if you have web came and other is for no web cam. you need the cable that is right for your screen. put back together in reverse and it should be fine put a bit of grease on the cable were the bend is in the cable around the hinge will help it no split so easy. hope this helps.
Hi! Your string like very thin cable which u can replace it with 30 lines! you need two string (from DVD player cable), one has only 18 lines and cut it the other one till 30 lines and put back to your panel through your cam mainboard!
Could be that speedo cable has become disconnected or that the inner shaft has broken. The speed cable is connected between the back of the instrument cluster and the left side of the transmission. Check under the car that the cable is securely fitted to the side of the transmission. Disconnect it and and check on the condition of the square drive flexible shaft. The spinning of this inner shaft is what conveys the output shaft speed of the transmission to the instruments. The instrument cluster can be removed but pushing a length of coat hanger wire with right angle turn on its end between the the cluster and the dashboard surround. Turn the coat hanger to hook behind the cluster and pull forward to remove it. Try several points around the cluster. It is best to disconnect the speedo drive cable to withdraw the cluster (after electrical connections have been disconnected. check that the speedo cable is secure to the back of the instruments. If you remove the cluster completely follow the path of the speedo cable. If you have to replace the cable, tying a length of string to the speedo cable end first and posting the string down the cable path will help the re-installation enormously. Simply pull the string whilst reinstalling the instrument cluster until the end of the speedo can be got hold of. Refit the speedo cable to the transmission only after the instrument cluster is back in place.
the problem is the cable from one driver to the other suffers from fatigue due to the bending of the plastic frame as the headphone fits to your head, causing copper cables to disintegrate.
the solution is to take apart the headphones (mini and regular Phillips screwdriver ONLY required) and solder a new cable in. in my case i used a standard coaxial cable for replacement.
once you have split the end of the senheiser cable output from cup 1 into its two parts you need to attach it to the equivalent connections on cup 2 (which u also need to split, i suggest using a modeling knife)
the red wire is insulated with ceramic coating much the same way as an electromagnet winding, the other is standard copper. you must attach copper to copper red to red with YOUR OWN cable.
the most difficult part is removing the ceramic insulation coating on the red wire, which i removed with a blast from a cigarette lighter. simple.
problem is your cable probably will not fit in the slot designed for the previous cable so i drilled a small hole in the BACK of the cup (silver colored horse shoe shape) and ran the cable outside the plastic case. not pretty but it saved me £40 for 2 hours work, which is not bad.
i am a trained mechanical and electrical engineer so u can trust.
You will need to split the housing and remove the impeller wheel. In doing this you will have to disconnect the throttle cable and the switch assy. This can be a hand full if you have never done one.
In the future when you are purchasing a string trimmer or blower
or hedge trimmer, be sure that the starter can be removed by
removing 4 screws. This makes starter repair a 5 minute $10 job
instead of an hour $40 or more job. The problem is that you will
not find this in most home centers or box stores. You will have to
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