1995-1997 Chevy 1500 Truck Ignition Starter Alarm Switch Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Sep 30, 2012

Installed new fuel injectors in a 1997 5.7 chevy K1500 4WD. Won't start

Have fuel pressure up to injectors. Pulled #1 spark plug and it is getting spark.

  • Anonymous Sep 30, 2012

    tried starting fluid it has no fire

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1 Answer

Kardoc

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  • Chevrolet Master 7,503 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 25, 2018
Kardoc
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How much fuel pressure do you have. Should be 60-65 psi.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 341 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 06, 2008

SOURCE: 98 chevy camaro wont start

check fuel pressure regulator

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 17, 2009

SOURCE: 1997 chevy silverado 3500 with

We found the problem by taking the truck to the dealership, after spending $550.00 on parts and having everything we could remove tested or we purchased them new and replaced them. We spent two weeks on it and took it to Chevrolet but it took them three days after all we had done, the problem turned out to be the gear on the distributor, sure we replaced every part in it but because we could not get the distributor out with the intake on it we had not even considered the gear, thanks for your assistance and maybe we'll try you again next time....Thanks again.

Anonymous

  • 7 Answers
  • Posted on May 29, 2009

SOURCE: GM TBI low voltage at the injectors

sounds like a computer issue on the burb, but i would check the IAC(idle air control) valve and the TPS(throttle position sensor) first.
I would start with the IAC on the 93'.

Anonymous

  • 1874 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 23, 2010

SOURCE: 1997 Chevy Express van 1500

It's clear that you have a fuel system problem, if the engine will ignite only with starter fluid. Injectors do not spray when engine cranking, even the fuel pressure is good enough = 60 psi. Then remove the fuel rail assembly with injectors and see if they spraying fuel when another person cranking the engine. If not, check the electrical power supply of injectors & repair wires, connections, ... Also verify the Engine Control Module (ECM) output power towards injectors.

Anonymous

  • 4803 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 18, 2011

SOURCE: 1994 Chevy K1500 engine cranks

The troubleshooting charts for your ignition system are copyrighted and I cannot post them here. You can have access to them by subscribing to alldatadiy.com fo a small fee.

The MOST LIKELY cause of your problem is a failed distributor module. (inside the distributor) The symptoms you described can also be caused by many other things like loose or corroded connectors or even a failed Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

Please also review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

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My 1988 Chevy s10 2.5 cly. Won't fire. I pulled

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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You need to check if it is a spark problem or a fuel problem. Check to see if you have spark to the plugs by removing a plug wire from the dist cap, hold it 1/2 inch from the tower in which you pulled it from and have someone crank the engine over. If you have a strong spark, then it is a fuel problem. Take off the air cleaner and squirt some starter fluid into the throttle body. If it starts you have a fuel problem. Check the fuel pressure with a pressure gauge. Should have 45-50 psi depending on engine. If you have no pressure check the fuel pump fuse in fuse box. You may have a bad pump. You might try tapping the lowers part of the fuel tank with a hammer while someone else is cranking the engine over. Sometimes that will jolt the pump into pumping.
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I am with Peter on this one. No diagnostics to this before replacing parts? Not that what you have done is a waste of time by any means but should have been diagnosed first. I assume it is turning over but just not getting gas is why you went the route of of the fuel supply. You could have saved a bit of time by having a fuel pressure test done which is what I think you still need to do here. Verify that the fuel is getting the the engine. That will for once and all confirm or eliminate your fuel problem. This test should not cost you more than 75.00. You can go to a parts store like ORielly and they will let you use a pressure tester for free. Hope this helps and I will keep checking for responses and help with what I can.
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Are the plugs wet with fuel?
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