Doesnt spin displaying f5
See this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly
If the washer won't spin the lid switch
assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid
switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any
electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches
should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Coupling
If the washer won't spin the motor coupling
might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer
transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in
order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem
is the lid switch.
Drive Belt
If the washer won't spin, check the drive
belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the
washer won't spin properly.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly
If the washer spin the door lock assembly
should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or
electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The
switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board
If the washer won't spin the motor control
board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the
motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is
defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.
Drive Block
If the washer won't spin the drive block
might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the
drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the
transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will
still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also
usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to
replace.
Clutch Assembly
If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly
might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the
transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get
up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may
prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is
loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.
Clutch Band kit
If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit
might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the
transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get
up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may
prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch
band kit may need to be replaced.
Drive Motor
If the washer won't spin the drive motor
might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related
parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is
visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.
Tub Bearing
If the washer won't spin the tub bearing
might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to
replace.
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit
If the washer won't spin the tub seal and
bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy
to replace.
Bearing
If the washer won't spin the bearing might
have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal
maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows
water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive
If the washer won't spin the basket drive
clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the
transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears
out the tub won't spin.
Basket Drive Hub Kit
If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub
might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the
agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand
tools.
Transmission
If the washer won't spin the transmission
might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes
when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.
SOURCE: water doesnt completely drain or spin during last cycle
A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. This is the most common cause of this symptom on Whirlpool manufactured washers. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know.
SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool clothes
You need to replace the "clutch assembly" on the machine. Your problem most likely is with the the "brake cam" that comes in the kit. Over time, the brake cam becomes worn and will not disengage to allow the basket to spin and clutch will burn while attempting to run the spin cycle.
Here is a link to the kit you need.
Here is a video to walk you thru the repair.
SOURCE: washing machine spins but doesnt drain water until I turn it back to spin only
timer contacts are burnt replace the timer
SOURCE: had e20 error code on
Hi,
Thank you !!
SOURCE: My Bosch washing machine spins
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Were you able to check the function of the drain motor/pump whilst you checked the filter? If not follow my (pre0typed!) guidance notes which may help you.
Here are my complete and general guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis. Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Testimonial: "Thanks very much - solved the problem in 5 mins."
1,484 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×