NEC NFL-10565 front loading washing machine. Won't continue the cycle past the wash cycle to rinse spin, but will do a rinse spin on the rinse spin setting.
See this causes, and fix it. God bless you
If the washer stops mid cycle the timer might
be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components
before replacing this timer.
f the washer stops mid-cycle the main control board might be defective.
This is not common. Check other causes first such as the lid or door
switch and other components
f the washer stops mid cycle the water inlet valve cold water side may
have failed. Most washers have a cold water rinse and so if they can't
fill with cold water they just sit indefinitely waiting for the cold
water to enter. If there is cold water to the water inlet valve and the
cold water works in other parts of the cycle - or to make warm water -
the valve is not the problem.
If the washer stops mid cycle the door lock assembly should be checked.
The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any
switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have
continuity according to their design
If the washer stops mid cycle the lid switch assembly might be
defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can
fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches
with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity
according to their design.
SOURCE: Kenmore front-load washer stops at rinse cycle
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Good luck!
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW612 Top Loading Washing
Hi there
That fault is the pump blocked error (no change in water level).
i have a quick and easy way to solve this problem.
first turn the machine off then tilt the machine back and lean it on something(a chair or wall), look underneath, in the top right hand corner of the plastic outer boul you will see a small pump motor it has a fan on it spin this fan and if it is hard to turn that means there is somthing stuck in the drain pump keep turning the fan and try to free whatever is stuck in the pump, then try the machine on spin again all goin well the object in the pump should come out with the drain water(doing this will not harm the machine) if the object is still stuck you will need to get the water out of the machine (bailing or siphioning will work) and tilt the machine back again and take the wires off the pump and there should be a white tab on the boul holding the pump on pull this tab and twist the pump anticlockwise about a quarter turn(you will need a few towels or a boul or bucket to catch the water) and it should come off exposing the blockage.
Hope this solves your Problem.
Nick
SOURCE: washing machine fault
im having the problem now with my daewoo that every time i put a wash on its giving me a H6 message error
SOURCE: Washing machine displays an LF error code.
LF = Long Fill
LF flashes when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on OR water has disengaged
the basket but control does not detect a water level change.
Is water supply connected and turned on?
Are hose screens plugged?
Is water entering the tub? If so check pressure hose connection to machine/motor control.
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Testimonial: "We followed your suggestion and disconnected the hoses and they had "gunk" in them. We flushed them out, reconnected and everything seems to be fine."
SOURCE: GE WSSH300 front load washing
Hello,
Welcome to FixYa
It sounds like (based on your initial description) the unit is detecting an incomplete drain or an unlocked door, hence the control will not initiate a hi-speed spin. Since you've checked the drain already you can likely rule the incomplete drain a non-factor.
I know most folks will rule out the lock initially because the unit does indeed "lock", however, the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.
If it does indeed drain fine, then here's the next place I'd direct you to investigate.
**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**
It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.
What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, i.e.
If loose push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )
If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch, so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...
**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**
You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace. It should resemble the image here...
As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.
1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**
2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.
3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.
4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.
Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.
Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.
Regards,
Macmarkus :)
Testimonial: "thanks we tried everything else and am now ordering a door lock"
Hi
Error code FH appears when No water is detected
entering machine or Pressure switch trip is not detected. If after 30 seconds
the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be
turned off and the error code will be displayed. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to
clear the display. If there is no water entering the unit then make sure that
the inlet valves are working fine. You may need to check the continuity at the
inlet valves. If the valves are fine then check whether inlet water hoses as
they might be plugged. Also check for inlet water screen at the valve. However,
if the water is entering into the washer then the Drain pump might not be
working. Also inspect the Pressure Switch hose whether it is in good condition
and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch. Also check hoses for leak
and inspect the flow meter. Hope this helps...
Daniel
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