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normally on most saws the choke lever is manually set and then stays on till one squeezes the trigger (throttle) then it should pop off and run normally(assuming saw is warmed up enough) if this is not what happens sometimes a outer case interferes with the levers and wont allow for proper movement (shifted), also there's a few springs in there that do all the moving these can pop off there mounts and not allow proper lever moving as well
Press primer bulb 6 times
Move throttle lever to start position
Move choke lever to full choke position
Pull starter rope sharply until engine attempts to start, but no more than 5 pulls.
Move choke lever to half choke position. Pull starter rope sharply engine runs. If engine hasn't started after 5 pulls, repeat all steps above.
After warming up for 10 seconds, move choke lever to run position.
Manuallib.com has a manual for this model available for free download
I am a Stihl mechanic. We tell all our customers that the proper starting procedure for a Stihl is as follows. Turn on the switch. Set the choke lever to full choke. Prime the primer bulb three times(if it has one) and pull the pull rope NO MORE THAN THREE TIMES with the choke on. If the unit has not tried to start after the third pull, open the choke lever and pull till it starts. Sthil carburetors are notorious for flooding after pulling the rope more than three times on choke.
I would disconnect the electric feed from this choke unit. Sparks and fuel vapor are a bad combination. The heating element inside the black choke cover is shorted.
You should be able to get a new element at an autoparts store. Make sure you position the choke spring properly on the lever inside the case. Some use a loop in the spring to fit over the lever and some have a spring which fits between the small slot in the lever.
As for the sticking, check the action without the choke spring attached. The unloader in the choke system has a small piston which is drawn by vacuum. The rebuild instructions mention how to adjust or clean this passage.
The fuel could be stale. I would empty the fuel tank and put fresh fuel in it. Make sure the unit is in the ON position. On the handle there is a switch. ( I is ignition (to start) and O is off (to kill the unit)).
Then pump the primer bulb a few times to make sure there is no air in the fuel lines. Then move the choke lever up into the choke position. Pull the starter cord no more than about five times, it should try to start. Then move the choke lever down, into the off choke position. You should pull the cord a couple of more times and it should start right up.
If you have put the choke lever in the on position and pulled it a few times it could be flooded. To clear out the cylinder and get the unit running at this point. Turn the choke to the off position and pull the unit a few times. Depending on how flooded the unit is it could take quite a few pulls.
Hi thermo259, sounds like the high speed adjustment is lean, find the high speed screw and turn it counter clockwise 1 half turn and see if that helps. Should cure it.
O and I are the international symbols for off and on. The O is the off position and the I is the on position. Put the switch in the I position. Make sure there is properly mixed fuel in the tank. Your Mantis probably uses fuel mixed 1 part 2cycle oil to 50 parts gasoline. Push the primer bulb a few times until you see fuel in the bulb. Position the choke lever to full choke, open the throttle completely and use short, quick pulls on the rope until the engine sputters. Reposition to choke to half and pull the rope again. The engine should start at this time. Let the engine run for a few seconds, then push the choke lever to off. Go to work in the garden. Good luck!
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