My blade will not slide

Sorry, but no. There isn't really a way, unless you are very technically minded, to take the teeth apart and clean them. You might try, using a paperclip, I find that I have to do that on occasion to clear out the pieces that get caught in between the teeth.
or maybe, just a thought,?... You can use a product called goof off, it does come in a aerosol can as well, in addition to small bottles of the product in liquid form. Good luck.

There needs to be a video for this one but if you look at your other blades they can give you a guide. I wouldn't take the others apart though.get your pieces together the best you can. Don't forget the little plastic sliding piece. When you tighten the screws tighten the two equally and try your best to align everything as much as possible. Now look at your cutter blade and make sure the teeth don't stick out higher than gaps of the teeth on the main part of the blade. This will cut a dog.

Check to make sure the blade is not installed backwards. It's an easy mistake to make, everything will work OK, but the saw won't cut if the blade is on backwards.

First, make sure it's unplugged.

On many saws the guard mechanism partially covers the bolt that holds the blade in place. Loosen and move the part out of the way as recommended by the manufacturer. On this saw you loosen a screw and then slide the mechanism up and towards the rear.

Press the spindle lock to lock the blade in place. Turn the bolt clockwise - opposite the normal direction - to loosen and remove it. Remove the outer blade washer and the blade. Leave the inner blade washer in place. Wipe a drop of oil on the surfaces of the blade washers that touch the blade.

Put the blade on the saw so that the teeth point down. Putting the blade on with the teeth facing in the other direction can result in serious injury. Put the outer blade washer in place. Turn the bolt counterclockwise until it is snug, plus another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Replace the cover and you're finished.

with the tool unplugged from power . u need a good square drop the blade down to cutting position place thesquare against the fence then slide it up to the teeth on the blade making sure u are against the teeth . if not square in the zero position on the scale undo the fixing bolts for the fence and adjust till the square shows no gap between fence and blade teeth . retighten bolts and check . plug in and make a cut . or u could just make cuts and move fence till get it right . i should add with straight edge make sure the fence itself is straight across its face. with one piece fences they can get bent. good luck.

if the string was caught in the blades for some time the motor kept running and could not move the blades the motor just burnt up from the stress to the motor.

Hi Jen,

It depends on whether you have an older or newer model jigsaw. Bosch makes the newer ones with a button you push that will release the blade.
On an older jigsaw, look at the handle from above the jigsaw directly in line with the blade. You should see a screw in the top of the handle. Use a screwdriver and loosen this screw, don't remove it, and when the screw is loose enough, you'll be able to pull the blade out. When you put the new one in, slide it in the slot until it seats.

A rule of thumb is to use the blade with the wider gap and larger teeth on wood, the smaller teeth on metal. Most blades will say bimetal on the metal cutting blades.
Now, the courser the teeth the rougher cut you'll get. So, if you want a nice cut, don't use the blade with the largest teeth. Move down to the next largest.

I don't have a Bosch, so am not sure which codes are for which blades, but you can't go wrong if you go by the size of the teeth.

You didn't say what material the worktop is made of. If it's wood, the second largest toothed blade should be fine.

If you've never used a jigsaw before, I could suggest a couple tips that would help you get a nice job done.
First, put a piece of painters tape or masking tape over where you will cut, draw your line and go easy. The tape will keep the blade from giving you a roughed up top edge.
When you get near the end of the cut, hold a piece of scrap wood flat against the back edge to prevent tearout.
Also, let the saw do the work, don't push it.

Hope this helps, If it does, I'd appreciate a 4 thumbs up, Thanks,

Handie Andie, "woodworker by night"

Instruction to assemble a clipper blade.Above picture Socket
Spring Tension
Place Socket on Spring Tension like this
Slide Socket back as shown in picture
Turn Socket & Spring Tension over Make sure Socket is slide back
This is Call a Blade Guide Make sure the blade Guide is on the Spring Tension
Make sure blade guide is on like picture above, Now place Socket & Spring aside
The comb Blade Place comb blade as picture above
Place cutter blade as picture above, making sure cutter blade smaller blade is on the comb blade Rail.
Hold the blade like this Finger on top and Thumb on the bottom
Turn blade over like this while still holding the blade together
Place screw as shown
Screw in the screw don't tighten leave loose.
Now that you have the 2 screw in and not tight place the blade like this You need to hold the blade with one hand and with your Philips screw driver tap the cutter blade back lightly until the cutter teeth are 2/32 back from the comb blade.
the cutter blade which is the smaller blade is back 2/32 from the comb blade which is the bigger blade. When this is done by holding the blade together with your finger & Thumb
Tighten the 2 screws tight
Your blade should look like this when done correctly
We hope this was helpful when assembling a clipper blade.

It's always a good idea to oil the blade of a hedge trimmer with WD40 or similar otherwise the sap from branches will eventually build up a coating on the blades and increase friction.

Hedge trimmers cut using either a single-action, where only the top blade oscillates, cutting against the stationary lower blade, or a double-action where a pair of double-sided toothed blades that slide back and forth at a high speed so you can sweep across hedges in both directions. The latter are more efficient. Blade length Consider the size of the hedge you will be cutting to get the right length blade. The longer the blade length, the more area it can cover and the quicker it will get the job done. However longer blades also require more power and larger heavier motors so weigh up blade size versus ease of use. Blade lengths range from 14 to 30 inches with long blades of 22 to 30 inches providing extended reach for taller or wider hedges. Blade width The blade width indicates the space between teeth and the maximum thickness the trimmer can cut through, eg. 20mm blade width will be able to cut through a maximum 20mm branch.