Walk in freezer solenoid not opening - Freezers

Find a service mechanic you trust and get that door FIXED.
the ping pong ball is to allow the air pressure to equalize and the door to stay shut. Use only an approved door closer. Federal Law states that a walkin freezer door is to have an emergency escape means. That means what it says for a reason. So no one gets shut inside the freezer! After you fix the structure your problems will be a lot less. If you dont fix the structure then it will be a continual problem.
address other problems only after the "load" on the refrigeration equipment is taken care of.

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What is most likely your problem is the crushed ice solenoid. This solenoid, which is located next to the auger motor behind the ice bucket, is failing to actuate when you request cubed ice. Its "home" setting is crushed, and actuates to allow cubes past the crushing mechanism in the bucket. To be certain its the problem, remove the ice bucket, and tape the door light switch in the closed position. actuate the ice dispenser lever, for both cubed and crushed ice. you will see a square hole next to the rotating fork, when you select cubes, it should open. If it does open, there is something wrong with your ice bucket, perhaps the arm is broken, or the door inside bucket is off its snap in type hinge or broken altogether. If it doesnt open, replace the solenoid

Expert Refrigerator Repair Service in Chicago and Suburbs

THE FLAPER IS NOT GOING SHUT
REPLACE THE PLUNGER

no don't do that sounds like the drain tube going to the defrost pan is not in properly remove front grate and inspect to see if tube is off to one side if you completely seal the void that is required on operating frig's if has no air flow to cool the compressor will overheat and shorten the life or not cool properly

I've worked on freezers for over 20 years and have never heard of a compressor going bad because the door was left open. think about a second opinion.
Also, has the cooling coil inside the box developed and frost or ice build up? If so, it needs to be completely defrosted. If you defrost it manually, use a hose hooked up to hot water. Kill all power and hose all build up off. Remove the sheet metal housing ends and be sure there is no ice inside there too. I would go in this direction first.
IN order to kill a compressor under this condition, something really strange must have happened as anything is possible in a refrigeration system. Good luck and hope this helps.

Compressor 12/3 with 20 amp dual pole breaker. 220 VAC

Freezer 12/3 with 20 amp single pole breaker 120 VAC

No choice but to move your food to a secondary unit & defrost the walk-in. If you go chipping around your condenser you risk more damage. Hopefully you have seperate breakers for you walk-in vs other cold storage areas.

YES GOOD ADVISE . ALWAYS START WITH THE BASICS. IS EVAPORATOR COIL CLEAN AND CLEAR? ALL EVAP FANS RUNNING? DRAIN PAN CLEAR? IS STAT CALLING FOR COOL? IS OUTDOOR COND COIL CLEAN? IS OUTRDOOR FAN RUNNING WITH NO PLAY IN BUSHING? DO RUN AND START CAPS TEST GOOD? DOES CONTACTOR LOOK GOOD? THEN TRY TO CATCH UNIT WHEN TEMP IS ABOVE DESIRED SETTING. FIRST TEST STAT. IS IT OPEN OR CLOSED? IF BOX IS HOT AND ITS OPEN THEN PROBLEM IS STAT. IF STAT IS CLOSED AND OUTDOOR FAN IS NOT RUNNING THEN COMPRESSOR PROBABLY OVERHEATING WHEN FAN QUITS. CHECK FOR VOLTS TO FAN GOT VOLTS? FAN IS BAD. NO VOLTS? TRACK BACK TO SOURCE OF POWER ( CONTACTOR) AN R22 BOX AT 52 PRESS IS NOT TO BAD ON START UP ON A HOT BOX BUT COULD BE HIGH ON 502 408 OR R12 STUFF TYPE OF REF IS DEFINITELY IMPORTANT. GOOD LUCK

Yes if the evaporator drain is blocked or not attached correctly it causes the humidity to remain in the refridgerator. Just opening the door will cause the warm are to enter and cause the symtoms of rain if the water is not taken out the drain properly.Hope this helps JT