This is the second battery battery that wont charge both under a year old
onlt one of 3 now charging any ideas ?
Do not keep her on cold place. sorry but you have to buy new one again :/ take a look on amazon or something:
Amazon com Makita 18 battery
This normaly happens when the battery has been kept in cold conditions . keep your batteries indoors try sitting them on a radiator for a short period and they should take a charge . cold weather effects the cells in lithium ion batteries .
If you have
been a bad boy and managed to short the battery by using it for non-proscribed
purposes, the fusible link will blow (kind of like a fuse)
To fix it,
open up the battery (use a Torx 10 security bit, or a small flathead in a
pinch) On the battery connection nearest the spring-loaded white catch there is
a small bridge of metal with a hole in the center. If this is melted you can
solder it back together by sanding the two pieces and putting a glob of solder
on them. This will void your warranty (duh!) and remove the battery's fuse
protection, but it WILL work again.
If the link
is intact and nothing else is obviously wrong, you almost certainly have a bad
cell. I recommend pulling out the bad cell ( it will be the one that does not
read between 2.5 - 4 vdc) and replacing it with one from another dud battery-
this requires some fudging and re-soldering.
Or do what I
did, pull the cell, toss the electronics and the short pink wire, add a
cigarette lighter socket and voila! you have a portable power supply giving
around 14 volts. Charge it up by wiring two cigarette lighter male ends
together (check polarity , + to + and - to -) and plug it into your car, but
only while it is running or you will be charging your car battery with it!
Hope that
helps.
Matt Binns
GiantGlobes.com
If your battery reads well below 10-12volts….
Try charging
the battery with a car charger set on low (2 amps max) or a wall transformer
from a phone or some such with a 12vdc output (make sure it is 12vdc not 12vac)
You will need to know which of the charger wires is pos and neg, be careful not
to short the battery as this will blow the fusible link. Connect + to + using
jumper clips or stiff wire jammed into the battery contacts.
Once you get
the battery over 10-12 volts the charger will normally accept the battery.
You can jump
one good battery to the bad to do this, but in all cases watch out that the
wires do not get hot, as this is a BAD sign, often a minute or two will be
enough.
Of course you
may have a dodgy charger, they are not robust at all.
The fans also
****, noisy and sometimes they quit, causing the charger to quit too
Matt Binns
GiantGlobes.com
Matt, I don't find the "bridge of metal with a hole" in the BL 1830 battery.
I believe the cause of these failures is the protection circuitry disables the recharging ability if the battery drops below a certain thresh-hold voltage. My 2 failures were batteries that I didn't stop using when the tool’s rpm slowed down. There should be a way to reset the lock out, but I don't know how. Lesson to learn...stop using the battery when the tool slows.
I have been able to get some use of these locked out batteries with the following method. Read the caution below!!
1. Open the battery. Check that all of the 5 cell pairs are reasonably matched in voltage; open circuit and during charge and discharge. If not, replace the "dead" pair(s) and then charge or discharge the others individually until the voltages approximately match.
2. With the cells removed, drill 5 holes on each side of the battery case directly over the ends of each cell. Tread the holes with a tap. Remove the paper insulator from the cell ends and assemble the battery. The holes let you monitor separately each cell pair’s voltage. Carefully screwing in a machine screw to just touch the cell ends allows charging and discharging the cell pairs individually.
3. Use a 19.3V laptop charger connected directly to the plus/minus of the battery. If the cells are balanced, this applies 3.86v/cell and results in ~1 amp charge for a used battery which tapers down to no current after ~ 6 hours. I believe is a safe float charge voltage for healthy cells but I would never leave it connected continuously. It will never charge the battery as completely as the original charger which pumps a constant current at up to 4.2v/cell, then tapers down and finally shuts off.
Caution, caution, caution. The OEM charger has many of safeguard built in to it.
This method removes all protection! There could be serious problems if for example, 1 cell fails due to an internal short. The other cells would divide the 19.3 volts and be overcharged if left connected for a long period. They could explode. Always check the voltage of the individual cells before charging and monitor them regularly. If you skip drilling the holes for monitoring voltages, or don’t check voltages before each charge, you will eventually get in to some serious trouble.
VERY DANGEROUS WITH LITHIUM.
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I have just had a similar issue I left the drill unused for a period and when i placed it in the charger the charger showed the battery as charged after about 15 seconds.
Following a internet search I found a site that suggested for a simlar problem with a camera jump starting the low battery with a 9 v battery. I had a spare 18v from the drill so placed a contact from + to + and - to- and held for about 2 mins. I then placed the battery back in the charger and it started charging. Running the battery down as we speak to recharge again well worth a try. If you dont have a spare maybe the 9 v would work
HI Ian,
Did you use one of the rectangular 9V battery?
I used my spare 18v and used paper clips as jumpers, either wedging them in or using electrical tape, for the positive I used stripped wire as the clip was not long enough. whether there is enough power in 9v I dont know, but well worth a try, mine is still charging without any issues
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I have a Makita BL1830. The pack reads 18.5 volts. Each pair of cells read 3.7 volts. It reads as defective when placed in charger. Charger works fine on BL1850 reading 20.2 volts.
I think these companies put a usage timer in circuitry to make you buy new batteries!
Why else would a battery reading good voltage on the pack and each pair of cells?
I was able to put a little charge on it with a different lithium ion charger and I got the pack to 20.5 volts and the cells to 4.1 volts, which is well within the limits of the pack and cells.
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cherger flashes
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