So we just finished the F&P dryer bearing repairs, replaced the elements in the hot water tank and we're thinking what next? Tah Duh! My washer stopped during the rinse cycle and beeped until powered down: clothes soggy. Repowered, advanced to rinse cycle, same thing. Waited several minutes while researching, went into diagnostic mode, initially read as code 7 then got error code 37, tested drain pump, test okay and clothes less soggy so removed clothes. Tilted up, removed diverter (no debris in hoses or diverter), removed pump (small amount of lint but spun freely no sign of overheating) so reinstalled both. Ran a test cycle, filled, drained, spun, finished all cycles - :D VOILE! or so we thought. Put the clothes back in (evenly and not overloaded) and once again stopped on rinse cycle. :mad: Immediately went to diagnostics, pump test, pump would not come on, error code 37. Waited a couple of minutes, powered on, advanced to rinse cycle and it worked. Ahhh .. but wait. Rinse cycle repeated and repeated without ever advancing to final spin so finally stopped it before they'd get wet again and put the clothes in the dryer, a little wetter than the norm but very rinsed. Waited a couple of minutes, powered it back on in diagnostics mode, code 37, tested pump, tests ok. We've smelled no overheating but see that there's a heat switch on the pump where it won't work if hot but then will work once cooled possibly? :eek: Internet research - can be tricky and misleading so I'm looking for something more definitive. Diverter-$50? Pump-$110? Controller-$175? :confused:
I hate to say it but it sounds like the controller. I used to have one that had a similar problem that was fixed with a diverter and a controller. Another year or two later it was doing the same thing, so we just replaced it. Just a warning.
SOURCE: Kenmore front-load washer stops at rinse cycle
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Good luck!
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet 9100 will not drain during regular wash cycle
I would assume that you are using HE detergent if not the pump could go into a suds lock. You may have a bad drain pump. The other options could be possibly a bad central control unit. (however these are very expensive) or possibly a door lock issue but usually you will get a door lock error.
SOURCE: not draining properly
The3 problem is more likely to be in the pump itself. No diagnostic except what you have jsut described. Open the outside covers and access the hose to and from the pump. More liokely on the inlet side and check the hose and the pump entry hole.
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After lots and lots of research, we opted for replacing what was most logical. Given that the pump would test fine after sitting for several minutes, but wouldn't turn on if tested immediately after the error, it sounded more and more like the pump was tripping and then would reset once cool. We found a pump and breaker pair locally for $110 and replaced them with just a few minutes of labor. The washer is working perfectly through all cycles now. We've also recently completed repairs on our F&P dryer with little effort after reading that the front loaders are very similar if not a rebrand from G.E. front loaders, and finding a youtube video on bearing replacement for G.Es. Still a happy F&P owner ... easier to work on imaginable.
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