SOURCE: GE Dryer DWSR473GV0WW periodically just hums when turning on switch
might have a dead spot on the armuture or lint in the motor and or the centrifcal switch try taking it apart and cleaning the motor if that doesnt work replace the motor
SOURCE: Dryer model DBXR463. Power is
If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:
Power from the house
Check
to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If
you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check
for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
Door switch
If
the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer
won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is
inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need
to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse
that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an
inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your
dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to
inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the
dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring
Often
the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the
connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to
replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which
the wire is attached.
Hope that helps! Should you have any further questions,
please feel free to post them here.
P.S. - If you find that the solution/answer
I provided led you to, or resulted in a fix, please close the ticket with a FixYa!
rating. I would be very grateful for your show of appreciation.
Thank you for using FIXYA!
Cheers!
IrishDruid
SOURCE: hotpoint nbxr463eb2ww dryer will not start
turn breaker off and push off hard till you can feel an hear the click to reset then back on
SOURCE: hotpoint dryer DLB2650B, suddenly no heat, please
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
SOURCE: press the start button on dryer, it hums but wont
Sounds like a weak motor. You'll have to get a new motor installed. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to install yourself on that type of machine if you are handy. Motor is located in the bottom right of the machine, attached to the drum belt through a small pulley underneath the drum next to the motor.
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I have tested the start switch and the door switch-they show infinity until I try operating them-then 0 resistance. The motor belt is still in place. The dryer seems to be getting power-the 220 fuse hasn't triped, and the hum when trying to start suggests that power is coming in. The timer is my next suspect-it and its wiring look OK. There are 10 wires, it is made by Eaton, and it costs over 200.00. Ugh. It appears from the schematic I found tucked in the control panel that resistance should be about 3700 ohms. But the instructions say to check the resistance on the wires. I would think they mean on the terminals. Which would be correct? Thanks! And I will look for the thermal fuse, though I do not see it on the schematic.
Thanks for your reply! On the thermal fuse, I showed the schematic to a ex-IBM tech friend. and he could not see such a fuse there.
On the motor, No I have not checked it yet. Can I turn the dryer on its side to get at the motor? The dryer is constructed with three sides as one piece, with a smallish access hole to see the motor, but it's way in there.
On further examination, I see that turning the dryer on its side will not help. I am going to have to take the front piece off the dryer. That will give me better access to the motor than from the back. I'll report on what I find out.
Every dryer has a thermal fuse. It's hidden, but it's there. Different manufacturers put them in different places.
I see the motor but getting at the wire connections is very difficult. i thought I could take off the front for easier access, but it looks to me like that means taking the drum out.
I tried testing the timer. There are 11 connections on the timer. The schematic shows two leads to M which i guess means Motor. My meter shows infinity on those two leads and likewise on the terminals. That does not sound good, right?
Different meters sometimes can give different readings. Personally, I would have an appliance tech come out and test it.
I stopped by our local family owned appliance store this afternoon. The tech there looked at the schematic, listened to the problem description, and showed me how to test the motor, which he suspected as the culprit, not the timer. I'll see if I can get at the motor to test it. I'll post the results here.
I look forward to hearing the outcome!
Well, instead of a solution, I found a remedy. I bought a floor model Amana for 269. Getting at the motor was proving very difficult. I admit I am an amateur but the fasteners and their location on this Hotpoint rememnded me of how my 1969 Fiat was put together-awful design. Also, I had mauled the top of the dryer and it was loaded with rusty spots. I could not justtify more time, more money and more frustration on the Hotpoint. Now with the new dryer installed, I can concentrate at getting the old motor out and hopefully using it for a bench grinder. I had tested all the small parts, except for the thermal fuse that must be tucked away somewhere in a dark corner-I could see no wires going off to a fuse anywhere. So, thanks to everyone for their help-I learned a lot!
Hotpoint is made by GE...nothing but garbage when it comes to laundry! Plus their washing machines are notorious for faulty gearcases! My parents had a hotpoint washer, and barely five years later, the gearcase went out! They just need to go out of business all together!!
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