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Anonymous Posted on May 22, 2012

Our DLB2650B Hotpoint dryer will not start. When I turn the start switch to on, something just hums, and that's it.

  • 8 more comments 
  • Anonymous May 24, 2012

    I have tested the start switch and the door switch-they show infinity until I try operating them-then 0 resistance. The motor belt is still in place. The dryer seems to be getting power-the 220 fuse hasn't triped, and the hum when trying to start suggests that power is coming in. The timer is my next suspect-it and its wiring look OK. There are 10 wires, it is made by Eaton, and it costs over 200.00. Ugh. It appears from the schematic I found tucked in the control panel that resistance should be about 3700 ohms. But the instructions say to check the resistance on the wires. I would think they mean on the terminals. Which would be correct? Thanks! And I will look for the thermal fuse, though I do not see it on the schematic.

  • Anonymous May 25, 2012

    Thanks for your reply! On the thermal fuse, I showed the schematic to a ex-IBM tech friend. and he could not see such a fuse there.

    On the motor, No I have not checked it yet. Can I turn the dryer on its side to get at the motor? The dryer is constructed with three sides as one piece, with a smallish access hole to see the motor, but it's way in there.

  • Anonymous May 27, 2012

    On further examination, I see that turning the dryer on its side will not help. I am going to have to take the front piece off the dryer. That will give me better access to the motor than from the back. I'll report on what I find out.

  • Kevin Getz
    Kevin Getz May 29, 2012

    Every dryer has a thermal fuse. It's hidden, but it's there. Different manufacturers put them in different places.

  • Anonymous May 29, 2012

    I see the motor but getting at the wire connections is very difficult. i thought I could take off the front for easier access, but it looks to me like that means taking the drum out.

    I tried testing the timer. There are 11 connections on the timer. The schematic shows two leads to M which i guess means Motor. My meter shows infinity on those two leads and likewise on the terminals. That does not sound good, right?

  • Kevin Getz
    Kevin Getz May 30, 2012

    Different meters sometimes can give different readings. Personally, I would have an appliance tech come out and test it.

  • Anonymous May 30, 2012

    I stopped by our local family owned appliance store this afternoon. The tech there looked at the schematic, listened to the problem description, and showed me how to test the motor, which he suspected as the culprit, not the timer. I'll see if I can get at the motor to test it. I'll post the results here.

  • Kevin Getz
    Kevin Getz May 31, 2012

    I look forward to hearing the outcome!

  • Anonymous Jun 06, 2012

    Well, instead of a solution, I found a remedy. I bought a floor model Amana for 269. Getting at the motor was proving very difficult. I admit I am an amateur but the fasteners and their location on this Hotpoint rememnded me of how my 1969 Fiat was put together-awful design. Also, I had mauled the top of the dryer and it was loaded with rusty spots. I could not justtify more time, more money and more frustration on the Hotpoint. Now with the new dryer installed, I can concentrate at getting the old motor out and hopefully using it for a bench grinder. I had tested all the small parts, except for the thermal fuse that must be tucked away somewhere in a dark corner-I could see no wires going off to a fuse anywhere. So, thanks to everyone for their help-I learned a lot!

  • Kevin Getz
    Kevin Getz Jun 07, 2012

    Hotpoint is made by GE...nothing but garbage when it comes to laundry! Plus their washing machines are notorious for faulty gearcases! My parents had a hotpoint washer, and barely five years later, the gearcase went out! They just need to go out of business all together!!

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Kevin Getz

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  • Posted on May 25, 2012
Kevin Getz
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The thermal cut-off will just turn off the element if the thermostat fails to. Did you try troubleshooting the motor?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1314 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 15, 2008

SOURCE: GE Dryer DWSR473GV0WW periodically just hums when turning on switch

might have a dead spot on the armuture or lint in the motor and or the centrifcal switch try taking it apart and cleaning the motor if that doesnt work replace the motor

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Anonymous

  • 2712 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 28, 2008

SOURCE: Dryer model DBXR463. Power is

If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached. Hope that helps! Should you have any further questions, please feel free to post them here.

P.S. - If you find that the solution/answer I provided led you to, or resulted in a fix, please close the ticket with a FixYa! rating. I would be very grateful for your show of appreciation.

Thank you for using FIXYA!

Cheers!
IrishDruid

Anonymous

  • 998 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 31, 2009

SOURCE: hotpoint nbxr463eb2ww dryer will not start

turn breaker off and push off hard till you can feel an hear the click to reset then back on

Anonymous

  • 986 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 26, 2009

SOURCE: hotpoint dryer DLB2650B, suddenly no heat, please

The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.

Anonymous

  • 66 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2009

SOURCE: press the start button on dryer, it hums but wont

Sounds like a weak motor. You'll have to get a new motor installed. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to install yourself on that type of machine if you are handy. Motor is located in the bottom right of the machine, attached to the drum belt through a small pulley underneath the drum next to the motor.

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Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.
Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

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Amana Dryer LEA30AW

usually the humming sound is coming from the motor,try this,open the door,turn the drum with one hand and hold the door switch in with your other hand and have someone else push the start button at the same time,this might help the motor turn on but if it does you need a new motor,if you can't turn the drum you could have something stuck in the blower wheel or something jammed in the motor like a broken belt but like i said a humming sound is usually the motor.
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Makes a humming noise but doesn't turn

Try this, open the dryer door and hold down the door light switch. Turn on the dryer and press start.When you hear the motor humming, turn the drum clockwise with your hand to see if it will turn. If itruns, you have a bad motor and will need to be replaced. If it doesn't turn, something is jammedinside and you will need to disassemble the unit to find the jam.
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My gas dryer just makes a humming sound when I turn the switch but does nothing. I lifted the top the drum turns easy to the right but a little harder to the left

the humming sound is the motor,either the motor is bad or something is stuck in the blower wheel or the belt broke and is jammed in the motor but either something is stopping the motor from running or it's the motor itself.try this,open the door,with one hand hold in the door switch and with the other hand spin the drum and have someone else push the start button,if the motor starts from you helping it then you know it's the motor,i've done this and the dryer worked after that and then on others it wouldn't run without helping it but it's the motor.next time send the brand name and model number so whoever is helping you we can look up your machine and i can send you a video from utube on how to get into the machine.good luck
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Dryer hums when start switch is turned

you don't have to "pop" the top off the dryer. the only thing you can do to possibly solve this problem without a professional is to:
  • tape down the door switch with strong tape, or have someone else hold it down.
  • physically turn the tub inside the dryer while pushing the start switch.
  • this will hopefully loosen whatever has the motor stuck.
if this does not work then the motor in the dryer might be bad or going bad, especially if a burning smell is present when you hear the humming sound.
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Just buzzes

 the only thing you can do to possibly solve this problem without a professional is to:
  • tape down the door switch with strong tape, or have someone else hold it down.
  • physically turn the tub inside the dryer while pushing the start switch.
  • this will hopefully loosen whatever has the motor stuck.
if this does not work then the motor in the dryer might be bad or going bad, especially if a burning smell is present when you hear the humming sound.
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