I have seen/read other postings for this same problem, but mine has a small twist. I get the dreaded F11 fault, but only intermittently. If I unplug/plug in the machine and give it another try, it usually works fine. I may then get several loads without another error, but it always returns. The service tech brochure (located inside the back of the washer in a plastic envelope for those of you that may want yours) is little help. A lot of check this/check that (but for what it doesn't say). I pulled the front lower panel, top, and back to check all these serial wiring connections - seem OK to me. They want you to "check" the CCU, MCU, and Motor - the 3 most expensive parts (electrically) in the machine. So am I supposed to start buying/replacing $200 and $300 parts until I find a fix? It seems that is what they would have you do.
I have also had the F11/DL problem with this machine. One technician came out and told me the following: I was not using HE detergent, the standard detergent was causing too much sudsing and the machine was having to run too long on the rinse cycle, and it was causing the F11 error. So. I got HE detergent, (it took a while to find an environmentally friendly one), but this has not solved the problem. He tried to change the MCU board - the replacement board did not work, so I'm still waiting for a replacement. He did replace the door lock mechanism, but I still get the DL error. My machines are on 3 or 4 inches of concrete, so vibration is a non-issue. I have found a good whack on the side of the machine seems to work. No kidding. Here's what happens: Stupid F11 flashes. I hit the pause/cancel button. It flashes the remaining time on the cycle. I hit the start button. Sometimes that just does it. If it doesn't I give it a whack on the left side of the machine, (if you're facing it), in the middle, about 6 to 8 inches above where the drawer is. Sometimes it's a few whacks, but I can hear a "chu-chunk" sound, which I think may be the door mechanism. Sometimes there's a sound sort of like a fritzy noise first, but then I get the "chu-chunk" sound. My husband has watched me do it, and he just shakes his head. Well, there ya go. Not buying one of these damned things again, though. I don't think it washes that well to tell you the truth. The loads often come out smelly, and have to be rewashed, and the rubber gasket at the door is a pain to keep clean. Any recommendations for a better front loader would be appreciated. Cheers! Phila
I once had located a code combination to push on the control panel to clear the F11 code. I cannot locate that again. Can you please give me the combination to reset the machine?
I have the HE 4t and now have the same F11 code. If someone comes up with an answer on this please post the results.
I have had f11 code and dl f code. I took the top off my machine and wriggled the conectors into the mother board. It has worked ok, they may get loose from the spinning.There is also a booklet of codes telling you what the error means and what connector it is on the mother board. Nobody tells you the booklet is there, i found that out on this site.It is taped inside the machine if you take the front off.
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I was told by Jays authorized appliance repair in hollywood florida that an F11 is a faulty door lock and that they ordered one for me which will take 5 to 7 days to get and then they will call to schedule service for me. How do I find out if this is really what F11 means? It seems from these others have to say that's not the problem HELP!!! I love my machine but it's only 2 years old and broken
We bought the Sears Kenmore Elite He3t, and after three years it began throwing F11 and DL codes, first on an intermittent basis and eventually on nearly every load. My research showed many people solving this problem with a replacement of the control unit or the relays inside of it. I have a different theory which is that the problem is really due to excessive vibration making the serial/tach connector to the motor intermittent. This forces an error code when the unit is spinning and vibrating. The problem with the engineering and design of these washing machines was that they all vibrate excesssively unless they are sitting on a floor constructed of a ton or more of solid concrete. The vibration eventually makes either the motor serial/tach connector (or possibly one of the five relays in the control unit) intermittent, and the machine begins to throw error codes. My solution was to take three hefty rubber bands and remount the control unit so that it hangs from the three bands inside the washing machine. This requires removing 3 screws on the rear of the lid on the machine with a 7mm wrench, taking the lid off, and prying the control unit from the mounting tangs with a flat blade screwdriver. The rubber bands can be looped through the mounting ears of the control unit and the original steel mounting bracket. No other modification is required, and the relays will not need to be replaced. The DL codes are only the result of the system shutting down with and F11 code and then discovering that the door is already locked in the restart attempt. People often make this problem worse by then yanking the door open and destroying the interlock system. It is a pity that a one-cent connector and the cheap mounting scheme of the control unit is what kills the reliability of this otherwise very nice $1000 washing machine. Have fun.
I have a top load washer 4.7 cu and in the middle of the load it started beeping flashing a F and I can not get the wash machine to spine the clothes. Washer is about three months old.
Can you please help me!!!
Thank You,
Jackie
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I agree with what you are saying about the construction and vibration of the machine. Mine is compounded even more with the addition of the drawer/base assembly. While this raises the unit up to a more comfortable working height and gives you some storage, it simply raises the center of gravity of the machine and makes the vibration worse. The wall in my laundry room is more than 1 1/2" away and it is beat up from the washer.
I have - since posting the original - tried to remove the serial cable connectors from both ends of the cable and soldering the wire right to the PC boards. It seemed to help, but the F11 returned. I think the temporary help had to do with powering down and up. In fact, I found that if I powered down and let the machine "rest" I could get at least one load out before F11 came back.
I finally bit the bullet and bought a new MCU at around $200. I have a family of 6 and a malfunctioning washer just isn't an option. I replaced it in mid January and haven't had the dreaded F11 since.
I did notice that on the MCU (that I removed) there is a small transformer that must be for the DC power supply to the board. I bet this powers the low voltage inputs/outputs as well as the processor (via some additional regulation). This transformer looked like it has been getting hot. The iron laminations and dielectric of the windings was irregularly blackened in places.
I further speculate that as the transformer gets hot, it starts to sag the DC Voltage of the MCU. The lower DC voltage could cause faults in the processor, faults in the serial comms, any number od problems.
Unfortunately, I feel the ultimate resolution to the problem is to replace the MCU. I do believe that the anti-vibration techniques listed in this thread would be good preventive measures. Vibration is no friend to electronic components hanging on by solder - especially relatively heavy objects like transformers and bigger capacitors.
The F11 fault is actually described in the tech sheet as a "Serial Communication Fault" involving the MCU (the washers computer) and the DC Drive assembly that runs the motor. If you are not familiar with a DC drive, it is simply a controller for the motor that varies the voltage to the motor to change speeds. This is so the washer can crawl slowly to tumble your clothes as well as spin at the ridiculously high speeds using the same motor. I would argue that "Jay's" is wrong about the door latch - there is a different specific code for that malfunction (I think it flashes F and DL). I wish it was the door lock - that's cheap, unfortunately, I think you are in for a MCU @ ~$200.
The F11 fault is actually described in the tech sheet as a "Serial Communication Fault" involving the MCU (the washers computer) and the DC Drive assembly that runs the motor. If you are not familiar with a DC drive, it is simply a controller for the motor that varies the voltage to the motor to change speeds. This is so the washer can crawl slowly to tumble your clothes as well as spin at the ridiculously high speeds using the same motor. I would argue that "Jay's" is wrong about the door latch - there is a different specific code for that malfunction (I think it flashes F and DL). I wish it was the door lock - that's cheap, unfortunately, I think you are in for a MCU @ ~$200.
I know that problem betwen CCU, MCU and motor, can somebody who knows what is the voltage in each pin tell me how can I check it?
I whant to know the voltage that sends CCU to MCU, and MCU to the motor. To identify which one is damaged.
Thank You for helping me.
wow!!! I have been getting the f11 as well....... hmmmmm did everyone buy theres from Sears????? Maybe we all need a recall!!!!!
I am FURIOUS! I too, have started getting the F11 error code within the past few months.....and my washer is, yep, you guessed it, a little over 3 years old! This is ridiculous....for a $1000 washer to do this.....people keep the old top loader kind of washers for 10-15 years without these kind of problems! I will definitley think twice before getting this kind again........when this one dies, I think I want to to back to a top loader, I will NOT pay to replace the motor/computer/whatever.......!!!
Oh, and to the user who asked if we all got them at Sears, yes, Kenmore Elite is a Sears brand, only sold there.
Well I use to work at a huge appliance dealer in Tulsa,Ok, and I got the whirlpool front loader when it first came out. Ecstatic to say the least, I had a fellow employee hook it up for me. Now two years later the darn thing keeps doing this F11 thing. I replaced the door mechanism myself, with the background in appliances it seemed the best idea. It did nothing but add to the anger.Now I'm out 75$ and the washing machine is still doing it. I mean people have had these front-loaders forever and it just seems that the best answer is 20 or30 years ago they were not making 200,000 of these things a month. Simply put, there attention to detail has slipped.
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