2400 watt inverter in alarm

It is most likely the low voltage alarm. Suggest connecting when the car is running with no load (110 volts not connected). If the alarm continues turn the unit off and on to reset.

Hope this helps?

Inverter Protection Features
• Short Circuit Protection. The inverter will automatically shut down until short is removed.
• Low Voltage Alarm. An alarm will sound when the voltage from the battery discharges to 10.5 +/- 0.5 volts DC. This is an indication that the battery needs to be recharged.
• Over Voltage Protection. The RED LED Indicator Light will illuminate and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when the input exceeds 16.5 +/- 1 volt DC.
• Under Voltage Protection. The RED LED Indicator Light will illuminate and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when the input is less than 10.0 +/- 0.5 volts DC.
• Overload Protection. The RED LED Indicator Light will illuminate and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when the continuous draw of the equipment being operated exceeds 1200 watts or the surge draw of the equipment exceeds 2400 watts.
• Thermal Protection. The RED LED Indicator Light will illuminate and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when the circuit temperature exceeds 150° F

It is normal to use only half of the capacity of a battery and this is called 50% depth of discharge (DOD) so the watts of a battery is volt X amp hours eg a 12 volt bat @ 200 AH would be 2400 watts but you can only use half of that other wise the battery will be stuffed, so all you have is 1200 watts, if you have a 400 AH battery you would have 2400 watts, you also have to know the capacity of the battery and this is call the C rating of the battery once you have that you can work out how many hours it will run for.
On an of grid system I would not use any less than 6oo to 700 AH @ C100
It is normal to size the batters to energy demand in KWHrs per day of (AC load )
Hope this help.

You may have knocked something loose inside. Take off the generator end cover and look for anything obvious. There is nothing to loose at this point.

I have a Craftsman Snow Blower with a Briggs & Stratton Engine. I had the same problem. I searched online and read a little bit about this run and stop problem. One solution was to put something over a piece of metal that separates the hot engine part from the other part of the other side of the engine. I used a piece of heat resistant cloth from Lowes in the plumping area where the torches are. It fit and worked. Engine keeps running. I ran it for over an hour last spring prior to storing it.

Any particular reason for hooking it up backwards? most likely something inside is fried and you will prob have to purchase a new unit.

Good luck

my be overheating the internal parts (TMOS) or you reach the wattage limit. or your using small wire from inverter to battery.

Sadly replacement is the best option. It is just not cost effective to get the inverter repaired.

The cost starts out about 150.00.

Best option is to take it back to where you purchased it and hope you can get a new one.

Hope this tip helps.

Am a seven each power inverters owner.

Recommendations: Purchase a Pure sine inverter 1500 watt. We have had one of these running 24 seven for almost a year now.

Hey, Question: Is the 2400 watt the peak rating or the continuous rating of the unit, and what is your power source for the inverter. If 2400 is the peak, the 1200 is probably the continuous. Your 75 watt fridge will draw probably 150-170 watts to start up, which will load the inverter to draw 15-17 amps of load on your 12 volt power source. If the battery supply is weak, the current draw at startup will cause the voltage to drop and set off the alarm. Getting the start up out of order may work for a while, but will eventually blow the internal fuses on the inverter, or possibly blow out the capacitors. Check the condition of the battery supply, and make sure the bar fridge is in good working order to resolve this problem.

Assuming you are testing alternating current and not direct current that sounds quite normal. Plug with confidence. You are using equipment designed for 110v-120v and you're getting 113.8v where it matters most. Higher voltage to ground is nothing unusual, that's just how this inverter is designed.