This problem has been ongoing for probably 3-4 years - the reason I am looking into it now is because I had to unstack the machines when I recently replaced the hall sensor because of a spin issue... Do I need door switch, control panel or???
If the door switch contacts have burnt out then the switch will never work and neither will the machine until the switch is replaced. If the door switch button is worn then it will need replacing. If when you switch the machine on and it does not start, try giving the door a "shove" or "gentle thump" in the door latch area. if the machine then starts it will no doubt need a new door switch. if it does not start then the main ON/OFF button or the door switch will need to be checked. Both these components take the full power of the machine as long as the machine is running so they are prone go faulty. Unless you are comptent with electronic components I can not explain how to do this for safety reasons.
Testimonial: "Thank you for your help - I did end up replacing the door switch which solved the starting problem - for the past year I think I looked at this switch as strictly being mechanical (when you closed the door you made the contact) and kept declining the idea that the switch could actually be the problem - when you would push the switch with your had I was expecting a clicking sound, not the case - I did take the switch apart and noticed the contacts on the bi-metal portion of the switch did look burned and possibly it had also weakened... Again Thank you. Now I have to determine if the start button can be repaired or cleaned rather than replacing as it doesn't always respond to a gentle touch, sometimes requiring you to push very hard... But it does start now!"
The type of machine you have has a programed control board like a brain that runs everything. It has dectected a fault and so is programed to shut down. Your door seal may be leaking water from the splashing as the drum turns because the only high level is on the last rinse this is usually apparent by water stains on the outer side of the door seal by the hole. The water could be just laying in the inner gully of the machine so you won't see any on the floor. The door catch could still lock as it is usually a bi-metal strip inside that locks it. The door switch can be an intermittent fault. You are perfectly right in the fact if you get an error appear when the switch is operated then the switch is OK. I think at this stage you have to consider calling an engineer for an estimate at least because replacing the door seal and door switch has got to be cheaper than a new machine, if that is the fault. Worst scenario is the programer itself and that is mega money. Replacing the door switch is a 15min - 20min job but the door seal can be tricky to attach the new one to the outer drum and refitting the band. About 20min-30min job. So about 1hour labour in all after water testing etc.
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SOURCE: hall sensor
no you do not have to replace the motor when replacing the hall sensor. unless the motor is not reading on the hall sensor. most of the time it just the hall sensor that needs replacement
SOURCE: My LG 2277HW gave the LE error and we replaced the
http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/WM2277/WM2277xx_Service_Manual.pdf
The LE issue should of been for the followinig, not a motor:
LE LOCKED MOTOR ERROR
• The connector (3-pin, male, white) in the MOTOR HARNESS is not connected to the connector (3-pin, female, white) of STATOR ASSEMBLY.
• The electric contact between the connectors (3-pin, male, white) in the MOTOR HARNESS and 4-pin, female, white connector in the MAIN PWB ASSEMBLY is bad or unstable.
• The MOTOR HARNESS between the STATOR ASSEMBLY and MAIN PWB ASSEMBLY is cut (open circuited).
• The ball sensor is out of order/defective.
The OE error means it is not draining. Two diffrent issues.
Are you sure you cleaned out the drain filter on the bottom? Not just drained it. You have to drain it then pull the filter out and clean it.
SOURCE: dE code on WM0642HW TROMM washing machine
HI, this is a Door Open Error.
Possible Causes are..-
* Door not all the way closed
* Loose electrical connections at door switch and pwb assembly(Control Board)
* Door switch assembly is out of order(Miss aligned)
* Gasket on door may be creased in
Most common issue here will be a defective door lock switch. check all causes before replacing the switch.
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Thank you for the response - I would like to add more detail - I don't know if it means anything but the on/off button has never been a problem, it always turns on when pushed and very easily I should add - the start button is another matter (a pain) - when it seems like it is going to start and then I get the de (error code NOT EVERY TIME OF COURSE) the door does lock - if the door locks could this still mean a defective door switch? In the end what I am trying to determine is whether it is worthwhile fixing this machine or should it be replaced - once it starts all is good... It seems I may be replacing the control panel, door switch and the door seal/boot (the boot doesn't leak but I did find a tear at about 4o'cl - it has been torn for a long time and it must not get water in this area because it doesn't leak)... However we do have a long time leak at the soap drawer (discovered a missing seal (strip of rubber) when I recently removed the top and control panel trim) - This has caused corrosion on the door hinges which I figure could be cleaned up and lubricated... Do you agree with my assessment?
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