Recently the freezer drain was clogged and ice formed at bottom of freezer. Also for some reason the water dispenser stopped working. I shutdown the refrig (both sides) cleaned all water. Amazingly the water dispenser started working again. I turned on both sides but neither side was getting cold. I shutdown the Refrig for 24 hours. I again turned on both sides and the cooling started to work again.
Now it is one week later, the water dispenser stopped working and both sides stopped cooling.
SOURCE: Amana French Door Refrigerator "on" but no cooling; freezer still works
There are 2 possible problems. One is the defrost cycle is not working properly this is usually indicated by a large amount of frost on the back freezer panel. If so, the circuit will have to be repaired and the evaperator thawed to remove the ice build up. The other is the fresh food damper is not working properly this is behind the "lump" in the back of the fridge compartment above the top shelf, remove the louver panel to see if it is open or closed. closed will be warm open should be cold. The water dispenser reservoir is probably frozen due to poor air circulation.
SOURCE: Amana bottom freezer/ refrigerator
Geezer, sounds like a defrost issue. I usually find the bi-metal to be the culprit on this model. Check out the pic. You will have to remove the back panel in the freezer and defrost the evaporator. Remove the ice maker if there is one. The back cover has 4 quarter inch screws. remove those. The air vent has 2 plastic clips one each side and one on the bottom, push in and pull the grill off. The thermistor cover has a slot for a flat blade screw driver,push in and pull the cover off. The thermistor will now slide behind the back panel. Check the bi-metal for buldging. As long as the evaporator fan is working, it's probably a defrost problem.
SOURCE: danby wine refrig
THE LAST THING THAT EVER HAPPENS IS FREON LOSS. SO TRY THIS FIRST ... LET THE COOLER STAND WITH "NO POWER FOR 24 HRS. MAKE SURE IT INSIDE AT ROOM TEMP. NO HIGHER THAN 75 deg. AFTER THE ALOTTED TIME TURN THE T-STAT-"OFF" AND TURN THE POWER "ON" ... THE CONDENSER FAN SHOULD START IMMEDIATELY. NOW LISTEN REAL CAREFULLY BY THE COMPRESSOR TO HEAR ANY CLICK NOISE. IF YOU DO THAT IS THE EXTERNAL OVERLOAD ( bI-METAL SAFTEY T-STAT THAT PROTECTS THE COMPRESSOR. TURN POWER OFF AGAIN AND DO THE FOLLOWING. THERE IS : 1) A START (plug-in) RELAY THAT PLUGS INTO THE COMPRESSOR. 2) THERE IS A START ASSIST CAPACITOR MOUNTED USUALLY ON THE TOP OF THE COMPRESSOR TEREMINAL COVER.( THIS IS HELD ON WITH A METAL STRAP THAT CAN BE "POPED-OFF" WITH A SCREW DRIVER. OR IT MAY HAVE 2 MOUNTING SCREWS. 3) THERE IS A ROUND BI-METAL T-STAT THAT PROTECTS YOUR COMPRESSOR.(AS STATED ABOVE). MAKE A DRAWING OF WHERE EVERY WIRE GOES AND THE DEVICES ON PAPER. .... THEN ... AND ONLY THEN REMOVE ALL 3 PARTS AND TAKE THEM TO YOUR LOCAL APPLIANCE REPAIR OUTLET. eg. APPLIANCE PARTS. APCO ETC. THEY WILL CHECK ALL 3 COMPONENTS FOR YOU AND MOST ALL HAVE UNIVERSAL REPLACEMENTS FOR ALL 3 DEVICES NO MATTER WHAT BRAND YOU HAVE.... AND THEY SHOULD BE ABOUT $10-$15 EACH. I HAVE REPAIRED HVAC & REFRIGERATION EQUIPMENT FOR OVER 40 YEARS. WHAT I DO IS REPLACE ALL 3 DEVICES. IF ONE IS BAD IT TENDS TO OVERHEAT THE OTHER COMPONENTS AND WEAKENS THEM. NOTE: NEVER INSTALL REFRIGERANT SELFTAPPING VALVES TO CHECK FOR FREON ... A AMP DRAW WILL TELL YOU IF COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING AT FULL LOAD , AND AT THE EVAPORATOR YOU SHOULD HAVE A 10-20 DEG F. DROP IN TEMP. YOUR EVAP COIL SHOULD FORM A EVEN FROST ON IT IN ABOUT 2-3 HOURS. THE MAIN THING IS TO ENSURE COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING. IF YOU HAVE A THERMOMETER, THE LARGER COPPERLINE ON THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD BE ABOUT 50-60 DEG.AND EVENTUALLY WILL "SWEAT". THE SMALLER LINE SHOULD READ 120-150 DEG "AT THE COMPRESSOR" OUTLET CONNECTION. MAKE SURE YOUR CONDENSOR AND EVAPORATOR COILS ARE BOTH ABSOLUTELY CLEAN. (CHECK WITH SMALL BRIGHT FLASH LIGHT TO SEE THROUGH COIL FINS. THAT SHOULD SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM. YOU MAY FIND WHEN TAKING THE PARTS OFF ... A BROKEN OR BURNT WIRE. IF SO REPLACE IT WITH AT LEAST #12 STRANDED WIRE. PROPER WIRE AND TERMINALS ARE AVAILABLE AT THE APPLIANCE PARTS STORE IN YOUR AREA. GOOD LUCK ... JOE_REX
SOURCE: Amana Refer. runs all the time.
Have you ever cleaned the condenser coil in the back or under the bottom of the refrigerator. Dirty coil will cause this problem, also make sure the little fan motor in the back is working if it stops you can get the same condition. If not these two conditions you may be starting to have a refrigerant problem.
The unit gets low on refrigerant and just dosen't cool properly.
SOURCE: NEW MAYTAG MSD2652KGW 26 CU FT SIDE BY SIDE
disconect water line and make sure you have water pressure.
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