My gas heater will stay on for around 5mins then it beeps and turns off. We have checked that the timer is off and that things are far away from it and this still happens. It is a gass heater that is attached to a gas main from the house not from a bottle.
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Code 12 is a flame failure.
First step in diagnosing the root of the issue is to check for any separation, obstruction, or failure in the vent system.
Second step is to use the isolator kit under the heater to flush the heat exchanger with vinegar or rectorseal calci-free.
These two things are a great starting point to working on any tankless water heater. Flame failure can be as simple as the heat exchanger being clogged not allowing the sensors to work properly or the exhaust being mixed with the air intake. If the problem persists I would suggest having a Rinnai Certified Tech look at the heater.
First thing to try is to check the flue to see if it is blocked or even partially blocked. This type of flue assembly exhausts burnt gases from the heater and another section draws fresh air in to the heater to be mixed and burnt with the gas.
the centre of the flue is the exhaust section and the outer section of the flue is the fresh air intake section.
removing the flue cowl will allow a visual inspection of the flue for any blockages.
If the flue is a long run then a plumber may need to be called to disassemble the flue for a closer inspection.
Get more air to the unit. http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch_Ventilating_tight_houses.pdf http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Attic-Ventilation-and-Pilot-Outage-in-Gas%20Water-Heaters.pdf Don't use household vent fans. Trim back trees, and move stuff away from front of water heater and from around vent pipe. Pilot outage can be caused by tightly insulated house, poor upward draft on flue, other vents or vent fans drafting air upward and causing downdraft on water heater, wind coming down flue pipe, water dripping down flueway, dirty combustion parts, clogged pilot orifice, failed thermocouple, failed gas control valve, low gas pressure, water or air in gas line, super hot location ... or combination of more than 1 thing.
weird...first thing to do is get a scanner hooked up to see what caused the check engine light-free, at pretty much any retail auto parts operation-i wouldn't get overly concerned with the gas gauge right now, teh code that tripped the check engine light might explain that problem.
HI pilot line open letting full gas through , make up soap and water to make bubbles and brush it around all the joints get someone to turn on tank slowly and you and chek for leaks if it bubbles up if in any not sure get a gas fitter too check it out
Error 12 is failed ignition - this can be caused by many things, but normally a low gas pressure, or no gas pressure upon ignition.
Try turning the hot tap on very slowly till till the control shows burner is lit. Then turn it on faster. If it stays going with no error, you might have a faulty regulator, not opening fast enough to meet demand. Especially common with lpg models,a lot rarer on natural gas.
If you have propane you better not mess around! with nat gas its lighter than air and drafts or flies away if it can.
not so with propane , its heavier than air and stays down low!! and the most explosive situation is 10% gas/ 90% air !!!! so a small leak??? there is no such thing with propane!! turn off all valves to it and get it fixed by expert this is one repair a handyman should never do!!
I have a Reddyheat IWH16NLTD with this problem. When the heater fan turns on it blows the pilot light slightly up and away from the thermocouple causing the safety valve to close after the ceramic cools down. The manual says that low gas line pressure can cause the flame to rise too far from the thermocouple causing this problem, so either it is a problem with gas pressure, or it is an assembly plant problem.
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