SOURCE: my amana bottom freezer won't cool both the fridge and freezer are warm
Ice build-up inside refrigerator and cycling switch not functioning. Requires technician to take apart inside of refrigerator, clear ice and replace switch. Took my repair man about half hour to fix.
SOURCE: Have trouble with frost build up with Amana with bottom freezer.
could be thermostat or defrost heater or defrost timer.you can check the heater with meters that check continuity.the thermostatis located on top coil and sometimes they will seperate.so look for those 2 things.most likely it will be one of the 2.the defrost timer is most likely good,if you hear your machine turn off and back on then the timer is good.
SOURCE: amana bottom freezer problem
It sounds like the condenser coil might be freezing up. This happened to me on my bottom freezer. The cooling part of your fridge is only in the back of the freezer compartment. The cold air from the freezer blows up through a vent in the back to the fridge and comes out at the top. If the coils do not defrost (which is what happened with mine) the air flow is blocked by the ice and can't get to the fridge compartment. Your freezer will still be cold but your fridge won't. If you pull the plug on it and time things right you can defrost the coils but this will only postpone the problem. Both will work for awhile again until the coils ice up again. You can also pull out the freezer drawere and try to defrost the coil with a blow dryer. You have to disconnect the icemaker and pull out the back panel behind the freezer to get to it though.
SOURCE: Amana ABB2224DEW bottom freezer defrost problem
You have a defrost problem. You will need to replace your defrost system. Before you put the parts on, you need to completely thaw out your unit. You can do this by leaving it open all day or night or by placing a fan close to it with the door open. We have parts, so please give us a call and we'll be sure to ge the right parts out to you right away. We look forward to hearing back from you.
SOURCE: Amana ABB2522FEW not cooling
HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.
Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.
The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.
Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.
Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.
This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuit board.
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