Washer won't empty or spin - Roper RAX7244KQ Top Load Washer

Sounds like your washer does not empty enough water for the spinning to stop. Have you check that the filter(s) are not clogged?

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.

turn your dailer to spin cycle

Water still in the bottom of the drum. Empty, clean filter and check pump is turning. Once pressure switch is satisfied no water is left it'll allow the door to open, assuming the door interlock is still ok.

it wont spin if there is water remaining in it,check pump for restrictions or anything jamming it if good replace pump

Washer bangs around in spin cycle and throws a DC or UC unballance code with cloths in the wash basket is that correct?

If so it's a Clutch issue.

If you want read more about what I feel is your issue read this post Maytag Neptune load unbalance

Usually that means the drive belt is loose and slipping. You should be able to tighten or replace the belt.
To test the belt you have to remove the washer back.

This sounds like a classic clogged empty pump issue. The empty cycle is timed and then it steps on to the spin cycle. The machine won't spin if there is still water in the bottom of the drum. When you reset it to a spin cycle again, you are making it run through the empty cycle again, finally getting rid of the water that the clogged filter could not evacuate on the first attempt.

You need to clean the empty pump filter. Now... Where is the filter???? Hmmmm... not sure. It MAY be behind a little panel in the front of the machine near the bottom. I can't find a picture of the machine on the net so I'm not sure.

Clean the filter, I'll bet your problem goes away. You have to wonder why the idiot who sold the machine to you hasn't suggested this!

WASHER FILLS WITH WATER, THEN WON'T AGITATE. TURN KNOB TO SPIN AND IT DRAINS THEN SPINS. STILL WON'T AGITATE please show me a diagram