I have a kenmore refrigerator that is not cooling. I found that when I take the production capacitor out of the circuit and jump the two wires together, that go to the capacitor, the comp runs. I bought a new capacitor and it still doesnt cool. what else can I check?

It is not likely, but since you had the lights on the same circuit it is possible that the breaker for that circuit may be tripped. Have you checked the breaker?

Unplug and keep unplugged until the short circuit is found. COULD BE:
Line cord coming in is bad. A wire is bare touching chassis. A shorted motor capacitor. A shorted Compressor. A shorted wire to cooling fan. You could start a fire or get shocked, be careful.

Good day,
With that amount of info it would be hard to try to pinpoint it. Here's a list of items that can cause a refrigerator to not cool.

Items that will cause a refrigerator not to cool.....
1. Defective thermostat
2. Defective freezer fan motor
3. Defective defrost timer
4. Defective defrost thermostat
5. Defective defrost main heater.
6. Defective condenser fan motor
6. Defective compressor overload protector
7. Defective compressor start relay
8. Defective compressor start/run capacitor (some models only)
9. Defective compressor
10. Restriction in refrigeration sealed system
11. Loss of refrigerant (leak)
12. Excessively dirty condenser
13. Broken wires, bad wire harness connectors, ect.
14. Defective fan motor switch (some models only)

As you can see it could be one of many,many items. If your handy with a meter you might want to start at the bottom back of the machine where the compressor is located.
Sounds as if it is not running, or running without refrigerant in the system.
Also, if it has a cooling fan motor in that area, make sure it runs, since all fan motors are wired to run at the same time.

There are three possibilities why the compressor motor is not running. #1. The thermostat switch is not closing to turn the motor on. #2. The compressor motor is bad. #3 The defrost timer is engaged, preventing the compressor motor from starting.

Solution for #1: Locate the thermostat switch behind the console in the refrigerator. It is attached to the freezer temperature adjusting knob. If you jump the switch out, the compressor motor should start. If it does, replace this switch.

Solution for #2: get another refrigerator. It is not worth repairing.

Solution for #3: Turn the freezer temperature switch to the coldest setting. Locate the defrost timer in the console on the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment. Look for position labels like "cool control" and "compressor". Jump between these two wires. The compressor should start. If it does, replace this module.

Kenmore Coldspot 106.53652300
I just fixed my neighbors fridge that suffered from a power surge. She explained that she smelt a burning smell in the kitchen and the next day the fridge and freezer were not cold. Of course she did not share the burnt smell part until after I discovered the starter relay and the capacitor were burnt on the compressor. She purchased the new starter kit and capacitor from a local supply company and while installing them I discovered the compressor fan was not running which also meant the compressor was not getting any power. I removed the screws that held the control panel on the fridge side (right side) and inspected the circuit board which I discovered a burnt trace on the board for the compressor control relay. I fixed the board by soldering a piece of solid core wire across it and it works great!
Make sure you shop around for your parts. The BIG local supplier here in Tulsa wanted $65 for the starter kit and $65 for the capacitor. We shopped around and found another supplier in Tulsa that sold them for $25 each and they were FSP parts!

Check/do the following:
Note: You may need the service of a qualified technician to do the job. The compressor and condenser are not user serviceable.

1. Check for any open or burnt wiring and rewire if necessary.
2. Check fuses and circuit breakers.
   
3. Check and reset overload relay.
4. Turn the thermostat knob to the proper setting.
5. Pullout the capacitor and check it. Using an ohmmeter, connect the test leads to the capacitor terminals. Do the same with the test leads in reverse.The pointer must deflect to the right and smoothly moves back to the left. Otherwise capacitor is defective. Replace it with the same specifications.
   
6. If compressor and capacitor is found okay, check for open thermostat. Unplug the unit and connect test leads of ohmmeter to the plug terminals. Turn the thermostat knob. The ohmmeter pointer must deflect, otherwise replace thermostat.
7. If all of the showed no problem then you probably have a low refrigerant in your unit. Check for any leak and recharge.

Hi, compressor will switch off when it get to hot, by over load relay, by why, if your days are hot, or room temp. high, it would do that, unplug let it cool down, then replug it, see if it would start, if it does same thing, after cooling down,locate and check ,or replace capacitor for compressor, usually located near compressor, or your compressor has faulty internal windings, you should replace compressor, or you got low voltage, very commom in summer, use digital volt meter and check ref. receptacle, for precise voltage, a drop in line voltage, could damage or prevent compressor from starting, unplug ref. for 30-40mins, let compresor cool down, and make sure there's good ventilation around ref. then retry, compressor should start, if it didn't, then you shoud replace capacitor or motor overlay relay, located on compressor terminal box, remove cover, and you will see it, i know you're smart, just replace it, remove one wire from compressor terminal and next wire from wire harness, and relace, you can also check compressor winding by using ohm meter, remove wire from compressor terminal put one lead on copper tubing, and one by one, on compressor terminal, if you get a beep (continuity) compressor has a short circuit, you will have to replace, but first let it cool down,could be just another hot, low voltage day, let him cooldown first,and retry him, before you attempt any repairs. good luck.

the defrost should be controlled by a timer every 10 hrs or so,it is usually in the bottom of the fridge by the compressor,it has a small motor that turns the timer,they burn out

No, white to com, black to the run terminal, and to the start through the capacitor. I suggest you also have a 15-amp fuse or breaker in the line for protection. Given that you say the relay, cutout, and cap check out, and you say there is continuity through the compressor, I have to think that there is a high-resistance connection in the circuit that feeds the compressor. Suspect bad connection at the thermostat or the defrost timer. Be careful, and work with one hand behind you back so you do not receive a dangerous shock.

There should be a shot circuit or near zero ohms across the two terminals when it is warm and open circuit when at freezer temps. Either the small capilary tube has leaked all of the nitrogen out or the contacts have rusted or corroded. I would say you have found the culprit....