The unit compressor will not run, wondering if it's a component that supports the compressor or the compressor it'self. how do I tell? there is some clicking within a white component mounted on the compressor. any easy checks before I chuck the thing and buy a new one?

It may have a faulty compressor relay or overload, best to change both at the same time. It's either that or a bad compressor.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

Good day!!!

that problem is commonly cause of bad defrost thermostat but you said the tech is already replaced the thermostat so you have other problem..

please check the ac cord on your unit because it possibly loose wire or break..

try to check it by touching it and gently shake it and look at the unit if have power malfunction when you shake the ac wire..

My guess is that the compressor it stuck or the start components are not working, without a amp clamp its hard to tell. If the start components are bad than the compressor may be trying to start on the run winding, that it can't do, For less than the price of a service call you can buy the start comp. and change them out and back to working again. Of course the compressor could be bad, and now you have new good start components, still cheaper than a service call. You would need the make and model of the compressor usually on the top of it or the side on a plate of metal get all the info because what you think might be the model number might not and back you go looking again for the right info.
If your game you will need a current relay, start cap and the overload. You may have trouble getting them due do the fact the your a home owner but go to a appliance repair shop and they can get them for you. All these are on the compressor, and or in the controls panel, small window units they are on or near the comp. larger units the parts are in the control panel. Not knowing what unit you have. It could just be the run cap and have not current relay or start cap. Good luck

A 'short' would be indicated by a breaker tripping or a fuse blowing at the time you turn on the unit, so I don't think you are dealing with a short. Since the compressor is a 'sealed unit' it's doubtful if you harmed it. However, washing down an AC with it running is not advisable and in fact is very dangerous. Electricity and water do not mix and a person can easily electrocute himself/herself doing this. That being said I would make sure the entire unit has dried out and with all power off - then 'inspect' all the electrical components - i.e. wire connections and 'starter relay' to make sure everything is in good condition. The fact that the fan is running indicates the 'starter relay' is ok - again - I would check all the electrical components, especially where the wires connect to the compressor. My guess is you have a wire burnt off of the compressor which probably happened while the unit was being washed.

The breaker tripping when you turn the unit on indicates a 'direct short' and 99 out of a 100 times the short will be either the outside fan motor or the compressor itself. Either way - you will need a qualified serviceperson to diagnose this problem correctly and make the needed repairs.
Best solution is to call AC person.
However, here's a good way you can get it down to either the fan motor or the compressor.
(1) With all power OFF - disconnect the wires to the fan motor
(2) turn on AC unit (a) if breaker trips it means the compressor is probably the shorted component. (b) if breaker DOES NOT trip and the compressor runs - it means the fan motor is shorted.
(3) If breaker tripped with the fan motor disconnected meaning the compressor is probably shorted you can then (with ALL POWER OFF) 'disconnect the wires going to the compressor' and re-connect the fan motor wires. Turn on power - and if fan motor runs (with compressor wires off) you know it's the compressor that is shorted.
After all this you will now know which of the two (compressor or fan motor) is shorted.
If it's the fan motor you can with 'limited mechanical experience' change the motor yourself, but if it's the compressor you will need to call a serviceperson because of the expertise needed to replace the compressor.

Blowing 'cool air' could mean - room temperature air or it could be 'cool' because the system is low on refrigerant, and just barely doing any 'cooling' at all.
To determine which is which - you need to know "for sure" if the compressor is running or not.
Sometimes, compressors run really smooth and quiet (especially if they have a low charge) - so you will need to feel the compressor. The safe way to do this is to get a screwdriver and press the tip against the compressor while it's running to see if you can actually feel it running. You should feel a slight/moderate vibration.
If it is running - I would suspect that you have a refrigerant problem (low charge) and the only true way to determine that would be with gauges. Note: if the unit has never been opened (does not have charging ports on it), then you will need a service person to install them/and to recharge unit. Note: there are 'self-tapping' charging ports on the market but I would not go that route as they tend to 'leak,' which will just be a problem down the road. Note: if you have a serviceperson do this BE SURE he/she actually 'welds' the service ports in - instead of using the above mentioned 'self-tapping valves.' The argument for 'self-tapping valves' is you will not have to recharge the unit, but still, I would not want the 'self-tappers' because of their tendency to leak.
Also - if you have a 'low charge' and you have the above mentioned procedure done by a service person or you end up doing it yourself - don't forget that the reason the charge was low to begin with is that you have had a 'leak,' and that the leak "must" be found and fixed or you will have the same problem down the road. All refrigerant leaks should be fixed by welding although they do have a new 'sealer' on the market that supposedly will seal refrigerant leaks. I personally, do not trust these new sealers and would not have anything to do with it. Plus - they cost about $75 which to me is not worth it especially when the results in my opinion are likely to be unsatisfactory.
If it's "not running." I would want to check and make sure the compressor is getting voltage.
At this point - depending on how mechanically/electrically inclined you are - you might want to have a service person look at it - because trouble-shooting with the power (electricity) on - is a somewhat precarious thing and I would never advise someone who is not qualified to be doing this.
As for the run capacitor - they rarely cause trouble and I would not suspect it for the problem you have.

Part of the problem may be that you have the humidity level set to high. The fan runs constantly to move the air around. When the unit senses a humidity level higher than what you have it set for, the compressor turns ON. Once it's ON, if the humidity level is short lived, it turns OFF.

Try setting the humidity level to the lowest possible setting. Usually, that 45%. If the humidity level in you home is higher than that, the compressor should turn ON and run until either the bucket is full or the humidity level reaches 45%. If this doesn't solve the problem, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to OFF and unplug the unit from the wall outlet for 12-15 minutes. Plug the unit bakc in, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and set the humidity level at it's lowest setting. Allow the unit to run until it cuts OFF and check the bucket for water. Hopefully that 12-15 minute time out allowed the unit to reset itself.

Hope this helped you to troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Susan, I really couldn't tell how long the extension cord you're using is or the gauge wire of the cord. I suspect it was a type-O. In any event, for an A/C unit the gauge wire of the extension cord should be no smaller than a 12 gauge and should have a grounding plug. The length shouldn't be more 10 to 12' . Any longer and you may have some voltage loss, when the compressor kicks in (surges) to start cooling.

Hope this helped to answer your question.

Can you tell if the compressor (black soccer ball looking thing in the rear of the unit) is running? Is it really hot? Is the little fan running near it? If the compressor isn't running it won't cool. Also check that the coil in the freezer section isn't frozen solid blocking all air flow inside the unit. The other thing is that the defrost cycle may be "stuck" so it thinks it should be defrosting (therefore not running the compressor, etc.) Lots of things to check but that info will help decide which way to go so post what you find please.