ROPER RS22AQXMQ SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR PROBLEM

The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

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Hi,

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
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One of two things is happening either your thermostat is on its last legs or you are getting a ice build up in the freezer area, that is telling the thermostat that the freezer and refrigerator is cold enough.

I would suggest you remove the food from your freezer side; remove the shelves; remove the inner back panel and see if there is an ice build up. If there is, then your defrost assembly is not working and will need replacement.

The good news is that if you defrost the unit (a hair dryer will speed the process) you can use the refrigerator until the defrost assembly arrives. And the defrost assembly is relatively easy to change out.

either the defrost heater in the freezer compartment underneath the evaporator coil is open and cannot heat or the defrost timer/adaptive defrost control in the refrige compartment is defective

Hi, It's a common problem with no-frost refrigerators, you have a defrost problems, two scenarios. (1) hot air entering freezer/refrigerator, examples. hot summer days, regular openings, high room temperatures, hot foods and broken door gasket, leaving freezer/refrigerator doors slightly open overnight, could cause your evaporator (coils) to freeze/ice up. cases like this, unplug/disconnect your refrigerator, remove produce, clean and let it defrost, for an hour, make sure all ice melted. plug or reconnect your refrigerator let it work/ run empty for another hour, then put back your produce. sure it will work perfect for the next 3-4 days. (2) next type of defrost problem could be faulty defrost heater, defrost thermostat, you will have to open back panel on freezer side to check. check your defrost heaters, defrost thermostat and defrost timer, it's better to change defrost timer and defrost thermostat together, or change faulty ones independently. but before you change any parts, clean and defrost refrigerator first, could just be regular openings, hot days, etc. if after 3-4 days it started to ice up, then check following parts. defrost heater. defrost thermostat and defrost timer, let me know if icing occurs after 3-4 days then we can check those parts i suggested. remember to always disconnect/unplug your refrigerator, before attempting any repairs. good luck

BAD MOTHER BOARD OR HEATERS

it sounds like the defrost system is not operating and getting rid of the frost. the common fault is that the defrost heater has gone, or the heater cut out has gone or the defrost timer is faulty. how is the door seal in the area- that can cause frosting with warm air ingress.

the partial frost pattern is an indication of low refrigerant, restriction or bad compressor. if the unit is under 5 years old this repair will probably be under warranty thru GE. if out of warranty then you are looking in most cases between 200-500 dollars for repair. good luck Thanx peyton