SOURCE: Defrost problem diagnosis
you will need a multimeter. check continuity thro the heater and stats mounted on the evaporator
SOURCE: Kenmore 596.75509400 bottom freezer defrost circuit test
if the thermostat is not cold enough it will be open and not allow the heater to come on. I would suggest you let the unit run for a few hours then check on the defrost cycle. in that time the terminator should close allowing the heater to work
SOURCE: Model 78182891 Coldspot with excessive water Collecting in Refrig
a plugged or frozen drain is a common problem that occurs from time to time in just about all refrigs so the answer is yes it may occur again in the future. But folllow theses directions and it will probably not occur again for 2-3 years.
Post back if you have any questions and I'll gladly help you out Thanks Peyton
SOURCE: My refrigerator does not defrost.
You need to check the mother board. There are usually visible burn marks on it. In any case if your heater and thermo are good it can only mean you need a board.
SOURCE: freezer working but refrig not cooling
The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3
Hi
If
refrigerator is not cooling properly it can be due to a defrost timer, which is
causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for
refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer
is bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and
can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat,
it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees
Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees.
This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold
temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is
snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends
temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced
when replacing the thermostat.
1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.
Hope this helps...please post back for further
assistance.
Daniel
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